Looking for an Intake
people are way too scared of heatsoak as it is... the primary issue with heatsoak is in an idle state, soon as you move 10 feet the air that was once in front of your car is now inside your engine bay and heatsoak is no longer a concern... the only time heatsoak is gonna be an issue with our cars is launching...
just my $0.02.
edit: this is why i'm getting rid of my pop charger and probably going back to the original box. Tony from motordyne says that with a clean OEM air filter and the rev-up airbox you can get equivalent performance as you would an aftermarket CAI... without the issues of a potentially gunked up MAF. He also mentioned that the airbox is almost a cold air intake in its own design fundamentals.
just my $0.02.
edit: this is why i'm getting rid of my pop charger and probably going back to the original box. Tony from motordyne says that with a clean OEM air filter and the rev-up airbox you can get equivalent performance as you would an aftermarket CAI... without the issues of a potentially gunked up MAF. He also mentioned that the airbox is almost a cold air intake in its own design fundamentals.
the july 2010 IMPORT TUNER did an intake test on the Z w/ 4 variables
1 short ram intake 223.4 hp
2 short ram w/ arm filter 224.4 hp
3 stock 224.1 hp
4 full arm cold air intake (w/ the air box and built in velocity stack) 235.1
however AFR (air fuel ratios) fluctuated throughout all tests (minus stock obviously) which now brings in the MAFS (mass air flow sensor)
now my thoughts:
sooo.... really, unless youre going to have it tuned at some point it seems pointless to get JUST an intake. i would prob wait and match an intake and exhaust all together and save yourself some time and money - IMO. thats what i would do
hope this helps. theres tons of info out there. just gotta sift through it and make YOUR call. - good luck!
1 short ram intake 223.4 hp
2 short ram w/ arm filter 224.4 hp
3 stock 224.1 hp
4 full arm cold air intake (w/ the air box and built in velocity stack) 235.1
however AFR (air fuel ratios) fluctuated throughout all tests (minus stock obviously) which now brings in the MAFS (mass air flow sensor)
now my thoughts:
sooo.... really, unless youre going to have it tuned at some point it seems pointless to get JUST an intake. i would prob wait and match an intake and exhaust all together and save yourself some time and money - IMO. thats what i would do
hope this helps. theres tons of info out there. just gotta sift through it and make YOUR call. - good luck!
Hydrazine (aka Tony from Motordyne Engineering)
During ART pipe testing we happened to be talking about intake design when I explained the effect of inlet coefficients and how sharp edge inlets can cause flow separation, which can induce a torroidal vortex just behind the sharp edge inlet and this in turn can cause a significant velocity gradient at the face of the MAF.
keep in mind that without a reset on ecu it can take a couple tanks of gas for the ecu to adjust properly... and even still you should consider a tune to bring everything together.
heres the online version - thankfully import tuner has their articles archived online!! unlike modified but modified did lots of work on a G they did. but very hard to follow since the build was so spaced out that i dont have all the issue and the one i dont have is the one i believe they addressed this same issue. i have the one on exhaust tho lol
http://www.importtuner.com/tech/impp...s/verdict.html
http://www.importtuner.com/tech/impp...s/verdict.html
Here's my Rev-up airbox with K&N filter, Z-tube, and "Cold" Air.
https://g35driver.com/forums/engine-...ir-intake.html
https://g35driver.com/forums/engine-...ir-intake.html
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 18,299
Likes: 1,488
From: By the sea, Tx
G35 sedan w/ too much money in mods

Thanks man. I'm just a rookie in the engine bay game. Check out Candlestick Park or Ttrank's pics among others to see the masters at work.




