Ha Ha Ha, Learn how to drive. Burning Clutch
#17
Obviously i knew it was slipping. Was trying to figure out why. I very rarely do it anyway. DONT BE A FU*KIN D*CK.
#18
And yes the pedal did return. It didnt a few times when i lived in florida and was told it was because of the extreme heat. I flushed the clutch fluid. I think im gonna do the slave and master and maybe the line and see how we are. I like doing the occasional donut or drift. So this is not gonna fly.
#19
Had the exact same issue clutch pedal would stay depressed when I tried launching over 4000rpm. Keep it under 4000 shouldn't need more than that anyways!
#20
#21
#22
I dunno if this has anything to do with it but, the car used to make a chattering noise that i thought could be related to clutch/ clutch sticking issue, turns out it was my trannny, they put in a new tranny undenwarrenty.
#24
Okay, so before we start with the learn how to drive criticism. I been driving sticks for years and never really had this problem.
Okay, so every once in a while when i get on it, and i mean hard, like doing a little drift or donut between first and second gear, the clutch doesnt seem to want to release because when i give it the gas it just goes nowhere fast and the clutch just starts smelling.dunno:
Okay, so every once in a while when i get on it, and i mean hard, like doing a little drift or donut between first and second gear, the clutch doesnt seem to want to release because when i give it the gas it just goes nowhere fast and the clutch just starts smelling.dunno:
Back a few years ago seems EVERYBODY jumped up and down telling people they didn't know how to drive a clutch. Uh, I started driving a panel van, 3 speed on the column when I was nine! Spent the 70s and early 80s drag racing, so using and feathering a clutch isn't anything new.
Fast forward darn near 39 years and bought the G new. Had 'smelly clutch' in the first 30 days. Eased up on it and only took off like grandma and it was fine. And NO I pretty much NEVER drive with VDC on. It's waaaaaay to intrusive.
If it slips and smells, then you try just one more, sometimes two agressive stomps on the 'go' pedal and you're gonna see smoke (but not from the rear tires). You're gonna have to pull the pedal up with your left foot, and them smell the freaking thing for 30 minutes!!! Best possible thing to do when it acts like that is find a long road, put it in cruise mode and drive till it cools down.
Me... they replaced the master cylinder at something like 1800 miles. Which was 8 months after I bought the car. (It's an 06 at 19,964 now and almost 6 years old.) Did that help?????? HE|| no!!! They refused to replace the slave cylinder or clutch ever since then.
Bottom line is the clutch is BY FAR the weakest link in the drive train on the G & Z. Given that independent suspension rear ends are NOT ones anyone wants to do a burnout with, considering the inherent problems of wheel hop. Makes for good sideways wheel slip, drifting, etc. but start in a straight line and you are (God forbid) better off with a (oh crap this hurts) "live rear axle" aka: Smushstang. Want handling and ride, then independent rules, as is with everything from our little tuners, to Enzos, and beyond.
Heck my clutch was smelling yesterday when I went to pickup my kid from high school, sitting in all that school driveway traffic not wanting to take off so slow the valves clatter. Go figure... That's the first time it's done it in at least a year. It has NOT however stuck to the floor since it was new. Of course I've had to be very VERY careful with it to avoid that.
I know the G/Z in stock, or even slightly modified isn't a supercar. Don't expect it to be. But it is a performance coupe. Anyone driven the 300HP V6 Camaro or Mustang and had the clutch burn up when pushing the 'happy pedal'??? Not gonna' happen. I hate to say it but these factory units are just north of junk. They work 90% of the time, with 75% of the drivers. But when you even think of redlight to redlight sillyness with someone else of the same mindset you are better off letting them get the jump while your going around them at the top end. Don't even think of lighting up the rear end while heading straight. That is of course unless you want the clutch stuck to the floor, the smell of burnt clutch for half an hour, and the car next to you disapearing into the distance.
Were I not the kind of guy that doesn't "fix it till it's broke" I would have put a clutch in to replace the factory POS a looooonnnnggg time ago. As it is, it'll go when I need it to. (Which also means I never, EVER drive in the rain.) Perhaps if I ever get 40,000 miles on it I'll put a 'real' clutch in. Till then... it's learn to 'feel the force'.
#25
i love these cars but theyre junk....wayyy to many problems in my eyes, way too many problems that shouldnt arise...blowing motors? wtf.? terrible clutch that dosent work the way its supossed to.... wtf??? door locks, window regulators...the ****in list goes on...im gettin a used g37 hopfully they have adressed alll this bottom line sounds like my favorite car has waaaaay tto many problems for what its worth ..ill save the aggravation and buy a 37
#26
However, the G is not a performance coupe. The dual mass flywheel paired with the clutch is highly tailored to easy starts and smoother shifting transitions typical of a cushier luxury car. The 1-2 shift in the G is downright eyons, but it's supposed to be.
#27
To the OP, I have an AUTO G, so I'm not speaking from experience...but from my BMW nut hugging days(they may not have passed yet) I remember your symptoms. The best write up I can find is on the zeckhausen website. Looks like the 350z has the valve in the clutch piping. The job of the valve is to protect the clutch from tom jackery. If you google "BMW clutch delay valve" there are dozens of complaints, some similar to yours. Hope this is helpful, but keep in ind, I may be barking up the wrong tree.