I have noticed recently how many have upgraded their rims and tires to 19's and are also lowering them with the Teins.
I am also putting on 19's and would like to know if there is any camber issue with the H Teins at all, I did check the 350Z forum (actually got on today) and they do not say much about the H series but more on the S or Eibachs which do give a camber issue.
So before I purchase a set I would like to hear from anyone with info on any issues they cause or if they are good to go.
Paul.

2004 G35 Coupe, Loaded.
2004 Lincoln Aviator
1995 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 completely modified
1999 VW Jetta

 

Not with the H-Tech, you will have a problem if you do the S-Tech though! I installed H-Techs a couple of weeks ago and headed straight to the alignment shop after the install, they were able to align it with no problem! I need to go back as the car has settled, I will do that in the next couple of days.

'03 G Coupe, 6 speed, Bose, Nav, Ivory Pearl / Graphite, 350Z airbox, more MODS to come!

 

All springs/coilovers, drop in the car will give you camber issues. There's no avoiding it, unless you spend around $800 and get camber and toe arms.

 

Well that sucks, I heard that they are as much as $850, well I suppose I might have to do that in the near future then..was hoping to avoid buying them right off the bat.
Paul.

2004 G35 Coupe, Loaded.
2004 Lincoln Aviator
1995 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 completely modified
1999 VW Jetta

 

Several things...

1. I am measuring the Pre-Drop with the TEIN H-Techs for the 350Z today. I'm getting the springs installed tomorrow and will do a 2nd measurement right after the springs are installed. After ~5 days I'll take a 3rd measurement, get an alignment and post all of the results for camber and toe. If you can wait for ~7 days I'll get you all of the data. If you want to know anything else, let me know now!

2. Cusco is supposed to be coming out with front camber arms which are to be in the $400 range sometime in/around November. Anyone have any data on this?

3. Lastly, these looks promising for the rear camber adjustment. Al503 told me that this company also sells camber and toe bolts for $90. He said I should check to see if these bolts (for the rears only) would bring me back to NOMINAL, not just to within spec.

 

Well my tires and rims do not arrive till Monday and I can wait a few more days till after that to decide on springs so yes please do give us some feedback.
I checked out the link and is it true that camber issue is more prone to the front wheels rather than the rear, I know both are issues but just want to clarify this before looking deeper into parts like you listed.
Paul.

2004 G35 Coupe, Loaded.
2004 Lincoln Aviator
1995 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 completely modified
1999 VW Jetta

 

Thinking very heavily about getting the H-tech's. I found a sweet price of $137 from http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...tegoryID=42185

I'm most likely going to order a set before the week ends. Keeping stock wheels.

 

A quick update... I just got home from work, pulled into the garage and got out the new yard stick and the 2' level. I placed the level up next to the yard stick to make sure it was vertical and then positioned the yard stick in the middle of the wheel. I measured the distance from the ground (my pretty near level garage floor) to the top of the wheel well (or the bottom part of the front and rear quarter pannels). To my surprise, all 4 corners with the PIAA's on were EXACTLY 27-1/4" off of the ground. I also just filled the tank full of gas about 1.5 miles away from home, so the tank is full. All measurements were taken with hot tires, so when I get the suspension I'll make sure to fill the car back up with gas on the way home and the tires will be hot too.

This should help us find out EXACTLY how much the TEIN H-Techs (for the 350Z) drop our coupes...

 

a drop thats less than an inch will still be able to get back in spec.... or close enough to spec where its not gonna make a difference... think about it... if it goes from -2 degrees (my fronts were today when i got alignment at 5k miles) to negative 2.5 or whatever.... its not gonna make THAT big of a difference on tire wear. Its not like we're talking thousands of miles of wear that u are going to do with half a degree out of spec camber. You may lose 1000 miles on a set of 20000 miles tires.... how many miles are you planning to drive in your car? I thot about it this way... i'm going to replace my car's tires maybe 5-6 times in the amount of time i have the car.... i may have to do 6-7 if i lower it and have camber problems.... thats one set of tires... the same price as camber correction... only that way... u would be paying it over a couple of years instead of right now...

2004 Black on Black g coupe 6spd.... aluminum pedals, clear corners, z tube, and pop charger. soon to have 19" volk gt-c's and PIAA xtreme whites in the clearance and corners
Houston Texas

 

Well said Raznips. That's what I wanted to say but couldn't get it out. [img]/w3timages/icons/wink.gif[/img]

 

Raznips, I guess it depends on how much and how hard you drive. I've just turned 10,600 miles and I got the car in January 2004. I pretty much killed my rear tires (at least I definitely need to rotate the tires on the rims to squeeze them for the rest of the year...) That means I go through 1 set of tires each year with my present driving habits. If my camber gets worse after the drop, that could mean 1 set of tires every 8 months or so. This could mean 3 sets of tires every 2 years instead of 2 sets of tires every 2 years. If I keep the car for 6 years, that's 3 extra sets of tires at ~$1000 a pop!

Also, if your tires wear more evenly you will have better traction as you accumulate miles. Don't forget to factor in your insurance deductible into the equation. People give the Brembos major props, but the tires play a bigger role than the calipers and rotors when it comes to stopping.

Another thing to consider is whether or not you are at NOMINAL specs or WITH IN spec. At nominal you should see the performance to wear ratio right where NISSAN designed it. The stock spec tolerances are pretty liberal IMO and can allow you to be pretty far away from nominal. Remember, using crude trig. calculations and neglecting the fact that tires will deflect, being out of camber by 1-degree (over 275mm) is equivalent to your tires outer edge being about 0.190" higher than the inner edge. That is a pretty large amount if you think about it.

Anyway, that's the way I look at it. Your mileage may vary...

 

Neffster summed it up pretty nicely. I recently bought new wheels/tires and was shocked at how severe the wear was on the inner portion of my front stock tires that I removed after 10,000 miles. The inside of the tire was literally bald. I guess I should have been paying closer attention. My front camber is at -1.2 and -1.1, within spec but still on the aggressive side. I will probably swap tires side to side once each set to help increase tread life. I suspect that will be at about 10,000 miles and hope to get 20,000 out of a set. After 20,000 miles the fronts will probably have decent tread left in the middle but be completely worn on both sides, hopefully this makes sense.

The rears don't seem to be as much of an issue. The wear wasn't completely even but it was fairly close, and I don't ever expect to get more than 15 - 20,000 miles out of a set of rear tires anyway. I would love to only replace the fronts at every other rear replacement, but with a drop and no camber arms I don't think its possible.

DG/G 6MT coupe, Borla exhaust, Stillen intake w/Z tube, H-Tech, Hotchkis Sways, 19" TE-37's

 

As the springs and the camber arms wil come close to 1,000 would it be better to buy the Tein adjustable coilovers as they are like 1500 so for 500 more you could have a perfect balance?? Just trying to make my mind up as of right now I feel like I will just put the new rims and tires on and not lower it until I get the best kit available.
Paul.

2004 G35 Coupe, Loaded.
2004 Lincoln Aviator
1995 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 completely modified
1999 VW Jetta

 

Thank you in advance for this valuable info. I would like to suggest one more thing and that is to make sure you stop the car in exactly the same spot in the garage. I usually use duct tape to make sure the car is where it was when I started the measurements. Thanks again.

 

<blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr>

I would like to suggest one more thing and that is to make sure you stop the car in exactly the same spot in the garage.

<hr></blockquote> Why? I'm confused... If the garage floor is level and my car weight doesn't change, why would it matter if I were within 1-2 feet of my previous reading? Heck, I'm using a wooden yardstick, not a digital height gage.

Please elaborate so I don't report erroneous data. Thanks.

What? You think that John Kerry is not consistent?