Yes. Because u have an 07, you should b covered. Let us know what happens..!!

 

it might not be the slave/master.

I had them changed and still had that problem.

 

I had those and my tranny replaced. They said it was the release spring or something. I went thru 3 clutch pedals, master and slave cylinder and a new tranny.. I ended up fettig a new motor due to oil consumption and just changed out my clutch and flywheel to JWT. Been perfect sense..

 

I had the same thing happen to me last weekend when I was racing with my friends STI, my clutch got stuck and I was trying to shift and I burn the hell out of the clutch. I thought that was it for it but I let it cool down and it was perfectly fine. I guess the oem clutch heats up and tends to stick.

 

uh, so ****ing lame. why didn't thoy ghey0rz at the stealership tell me this before i dropped in another OEM... gah...


of course they mention it AFTERWORDS...

 

I've reviewed all the replies to this post. If they are equally credible then the answer is really quite simple. Replace all drive train components in front of the rear differential and lube your clutch pedal and use synthetic clutch fluid. Problem solved.

 

The only correct person here is LMG_35C. Everyone else just thinks they know.

 

Wow. All the rest of them must feel mighty dumb.

Anyway, why would boiling the clutch fluid make the pedal stay down? When I lost a slave cyclinder o-ring on my Pathfinder pushing the clutch pedal would not disengage the clutch but the pedal would come back up normally.

I don't know anything about this stuff but isn't there a return spring on the pedal to make it come back up? If there is, why would loss of pressure within the master/slave cylinder cause the pedal to stay down? It would have to be pulling it down against that spring right? But that doesn't seem to be the case for the OP since he can pull it back up with his toe.

And why would a few launches in the coupe boil anyone's clutch fluid. I've done offroading in MT vehicles all my life with heavy clutching all day long in mud holes and hills and never boiled clutch fluid or seen anyone else do it.

Again, I don't understand all this stuff but the clutch fluid idea really doesn't make sense to me unless there is no spring on the pedal and it relies on the master cylinder to raise it back up. If that is the case then why does pressing it back down work at all? In other words, if the fluid is boiling and causing vapor to build in the lines and cause the master/slave cylinder to lose pressure then how on earth could it cause the pedal to fall but still disengage the clutch when you push the pedal back down?

Just curious.

 

You are literally retarded and illiterate, a bunch of people said the same things as he did so how are they wrong? And how would you even know who is right or wrong, you obviously have no clue and have not done the testing to even know if his analysis is correct either. Think before you post nub.

 

A NUB?

Illiterate? Care to explains why I have this odd ability to decipher those letters you just typed? Sorry if you can't break down a little internet logo.

Okay, yes a few people mention that his clutch overheated, but no1 actually went into detail or explained it well like he did. I was refering to the people just spouting out that he need a new master/slave or the OEM clutch can't handle a 3k launch.

how do I know? I have had the same exact problem and have gone through a new spring/master/slave/clutch. It's an issue with the clutch overheating.

 

Not going into detail doesn't make them wrong, you were wrong. And have you read the clutch problem threads? There are many different people with different fixes that worked, most of which were suggested here.

It isn't the same exact problem for everyone, if you read around you would see some things work for some people and other things for others. It is completely based on the individual and just because it is likely it is overheating does not mean it is the problem. And you are one data point, your experience doesn't make you right and everyone else wrong. Like stated, it could be any number of things although it does indeed sound like overheating as I stated in an earlier post as well.

 

WHY? Why does the clutch overheating cause the clutch pedal to stay on the floor?

 

Can you explain the operation of this delay valve, I've heard this explaination, but how does it work??

 

I'm not even sure I understand why the clutch fluid would overheat. With brakes, the heat is transferred from the brake pads to the brake piston and then to the fluid which is in direct contact with the brake piston.

With the clutch, the clutch fluid is never in direct contact with clutch plate. Heat transfer would have to come from the clutch plate (and maybe through the pressure plate and diaphragm) then through the input shaft then to the throwout bearing and then to the release fork and then to the pushrod of the slave cylinder and only then into contact with the clutch fluid. And at that point the surface area of contact would be tiny. And, I'd suspect that the slave cylinder is not even in the bell housing.

I'm not saying it can't happen but it seems like it would take a lot of heat and a long time for the heat transfer to carry into the slave cylinder. I don't know enough about all this to say this isn't the issue but it sure doesn't make sense to me.

 

Well. Isn't there a TSB on the slave cylinder ..? Start with the obvious, known issues and then go from there..