Well of course I have a MT or else I wouldn't be worried about this. And this is my first MT. I have heard that if your emergency brakes takes more than 6 clicks to be all the way up, then they are too loose and needs to be re-tightened. Well, I counted it and my e-brake currently takes 12 clicks until I can no longer pull it up. And it holds on a slight hill on around the 10th click.

I already went to a Nissan dealer and told them about it while I was getting some fluids changed and they said that it was a lot of work just to tighten it and i was in a rush so they didn't do it. The mechanic did say that it was fine because it still holds. BUT FOR HOW LONG?? I don't want to come out of class one day to find my car trashed in the middle of nowhere because it rolled away since my school has a lot of slight inclines in the parking lot.

He also did say something about a way to tighten it near the rear wheels since the e-brakes are there and if that didn't work, they would have to take a whole bunch of stuff apart to get to the brakes and replace some stuff.

Did anyone have this problem and is there a common way to fix this or am I just too paranoid?

 

mine is mt also, mine also takes 12 clicks to click. not 11, not 13. but 12

don't think it's a big deal..

 

I also have the same issue. Decided that I had enough of this, and fixed it in 5 minutes.

Take off the console top half. If you don't know how to do this, look in the service manual. But it's:

1. Lift up the shifter trim piece. I just reach through the leather boot, and pull upward on the half closest to you.

2. Lift up the arm rest, and pop out the rectangular trim cover where the hinge is. Then remove the 3 brass colored screws.

3. Lift up the console top half, and slide it off the parking brake lever.

4. I had nearly a 1/4" gap between the adjuster nut and the lever frame. I tightened it with a 10mm wrench until the nut was touching the frame. Don't overtighten, or you'll wear out the parking brake pad prematurely.



I didn't even half to disconnect any of the wires for the seat heaters. Easy 5 min job. I already replaced the parking brake shoes last month, but that's more involved.

I didn't even get resistance until 10 clicks prior to this, now it feels 1000x better. BTW, it's a PAC NIS2 in the picture on the top half. I also put foam tape everywhere whenever I take apart the interior, and I don't have any squeaks/rattles.

 

Have you ever done a rear brake change? If you have you will notice when you take off the rears they have an access hole to release the ebrake. You need to get a screwdriver and turn the whole nut until they tighten up. This should take out the play and allow them to engage quicker which reduces the click.

You dont need to mess with your actual e-brake at all.

 

I've changed nearly everything on my brakes. I even changed the parking brake shoes, and adjusted them with the screwdriver method. But I already had them as far outward as possible without creating drag on the rotor, but it was still loose.

 

Thanks man. I have to try that when it gets warmer here. And how long does the parking brake shoes usually last for? I just changed my rear pads too. If I would have known, I would have gotten the e-brake shoes changed too or had them adjust it.

Also how do you know when your e-brake is starting to wear out to the point where it won't hold anymore? Or is that just when your brakes won't hold anymore and you better park on a flat surface or get it changed asap.

 

Hey Oh Really, put it in reverse when your nose is high on a hill and put it in first for when it's low. you won't roll even without the break and you won't worry till you get the fix

 

Are u sure about that man? Isn't it put it in 1st when your facing uphill and reverse when facing downhill? This is my first MT but thats the way that makes sense to me.

Anyways, I tried it when i was on a slight hill facing upwards and if I am in first or reverse, I hear a creaking sound like the car and gear is moving slowly but once I pull the e-brake up, the car holds and no more creaking. Thats why i wanted to get my e-brake fixed just in case my gears don't hold.

 

Its always good to leave the car in gear to help. Put it in first though not reverse. As long as its in gear it shouldnt move anywhere.

@Ek how are the springs in there? If they are old they could warp a little i think they sell rebuild kits online for pretty cheap.

 

you're good just do both

 

it would be first when facing down to that if the car does roll it will atleast turn the motor the right way. reverse is a steeper shorter gear though so i think it technically will hold better but i just use first. the way to adjust your emergency brake it through the holes in the rear rotors. pull the plugs out and adjust it till it just barely starts to drag. the adjuster under the center console it to take up cable stretch. the emergency brake shoes last a long time UNLESS your doing e-brake slides.

 

I bought the car used so i hope the last owner didn't do any drifting. But my conclusion was to do the opposite so that if the car rolls, it won't turn the same way the motor turns so the motor will essentially stop the car from rolling. If I'm wrong, tell me.

And I found a DIY to tighten up the e-brake. Do I have to remove the caliper or anything or can I just remove the wheel and and the plug from the rotor and start adjusting it?

 

Oh yeah I just reread my post. I did it in a hurry. You're right.

 

All that springs that I saw either at the rear brake hub and in the center console looked good. It takes 6 clicks to tighten the parking brake now, and it'll be really tight at 7 clicks.