Thanks for the search advice, not. Don't post if that's all your going to say. I'll just go talk with Bobby at cin motorsports and get the info. Atleast he won't say go do a search first lol. Thanks to all others that have helped!

 

Thats not all I said. I gave you a warning on not going with your original plan, advice on how to find some recommendations that would help you avoid the issues I was warning you about, and even a website where you could learn more about it.

You've got another great idea, calling a shop is a good way to learn the basics, or not bother and get some expert help.

I am all about teaching others how to fish, not doling out the salmon every time they come looking. You posted looking for opinions, but I posted all I have to offer. Sorry it wasn't exactly what you were looking for; maybe next time.

 

Thanks for your help. Some people just don't have 5 hours to research suspension for a car online. I appreciate your input though.

 

MADtotheA, good questions.. I'm going thru the same process on choosing spring, camber kit, etc.. this helped.

 

Toe is the biggest issue in tire wear. Camber certainly will cause issues but most of the pictures you see online are from negative toe. Toe will fight the road and burn the tire where camber will apply the weight to the inner half. However under acceleration and down force the camber will change as well as toe, hence the range. The advantage to negative toe is as the car squats the toe goes positive and within range for stability. If you are 0 and squat it goes positive and will want to trackline a bit. This is when the car follows the ruts in the road especially on soft suspensions! I have spent a lot of time on the tracks and building Porsches and there is a balance to camber and toe. Most of the time if you are running negative camber you can extend tire life by running 0 toe... When I say not as stable keep in mind most won’t notice but going over the center line to another lane if the road is peaked a lot then you would notice the rear not making a smooth transition. Both front and rear arms will correct the car to factory specs but running a little less toe will give you max tire life. Every car is different and has It’s own foot print. On a side note I have been fighting caster although it will not wear the tires it may create pulling. I replaced all my arms and used whiteline bushings and the right was still out. The cure was losing up the front subframe and bolting it back down!

On my turbo I run -2.7 camber and the toe is set at 0 and tire wear is min. The inner half does wear quicker but you can dismount and remount the tires as it wears quicker than the other side. The G runs -1.4 and the toe was factory and it scrubs the tires quickly. I don't have any experience setting these cars up but learning quickly. I just redid my alignment and sitting at 0 toe in the rear now. Getting ready to drop it and redo it again. I’ll keep you posted on my theory. Worked on my Porsches so I am fairly certain it will work with the G. I am chewing tires up every 6Kish with factory specs.

 

This may be incorrect, but a buddy of mine very experienced in Nissans said that he has to rebuild his coilovers quite frequently and that it was a PIA.. He even use to work for a Nissan dealership in Charlotte and owns a 240.. Much easier to work on then our g. Just an thought.

 

I actually just spoke with a technician at cin motorsports and the coilovers that were recommended are the BC BR series coilovers. He said that you really don't need to get the camber kit right now until I see how my tires are wearing with this setup. I don't plan on dropping it extremely low. The price for the coilovers are $999 and install price is $360 which includes alignment. How does that sound to you guys?