Tockico hp g35 vs 350z
#18
Ill do my best to explain.
The bump stops look like roller skate wheels (shape size etc) but they are made out of foam. They sit on the OEM shock rod to keep it from compressing too far. If you hit a giant bump the shock will compress, and the bump stop will keep it from compressing to far. You can cut the bump stop in half (less or more) so now it looks like a roller skate wheel, but now only 1/2 as thick (.5" wide instead of 1" wide)
The bump stops look like roller skate wheels (shape size etc) but they are made out of foam. They sit on the OEM shock rod to keep it from compressing too far. If you hit a giant bump the shock will compress, and the bump stop will keep it from compressing to far. You can cut the bump stop in half (less or more) so now it looks like a roller skate wheel, but now only 1/2 as thick (.5" wide instead of 1" wide)
#19
#20
What's the purpose of increased travel? Is this because the z shocks are shorter and need to be compensated for with the bump stops?
#21
Increased downward travel.
Lets say that you buy new shocks for your car (G35 coupe shocks identical to the ones you currently have. Installed on the car with the OEM springs. The shock has a range of motion that it opperates within (without hitting the bumpstop). Lets assume that range (with the car sitting on the ground and wheels on) is 3" extension, so if you jack up your car the will will drop 3" before the shock is fully extended. And the shock has 3" of compression travel, the wheel can travel up 3" in the wheel well before hitting the bumpstop (full compression.
Make sense so far? With the car sitting at factory ride height the shock can compress 3" and extend 3". Remember those numbers are just for explanation purposes, actual travel will vary.
So now lets say that you want to lower 2" with lower springs. With the car sitting on the ground the shock will be compressed 2" more than it was before leaving you only 1" of compression before hitting the bumpstop and 5" of extension before being fully extended. The range of motion does not change, you still have 6" of travel from fully compressed to fully extended.
So now that you have only 1" of compression before hitting the bumpstop, you will feel the car hitting the bumpstop on dips in the road or over bumps. To prevent that you can cut your bumpstop to increase the amount the shock can compress before hitting the bumpstop. If you trim 1" off the bumpstop you just doubled your travel to 2" which would be enough to prevent you from hitting the bumpstop while still providing some protection from bottoming out the shock.
Lets say that you buy new shocks for your car (G35 coupe shocks identical to the ones you currently have. Installed on the car with the OEM springs. The shock has a range of motion that it opperates within (without hitting the bumpstop). Lets assume that range (with the car sitting on the ground and wheels on) is 3" extension, so if you jack up your car the will will drop 3" before the shock is fully extended. And the shock has 3" of compression travel, the wheel can travel up 3" in the wheel well before hitting the bumpstop (full compression.
Make sense so far? With the car sitting at factory ride height the shock can compress 3" and extend 3". Remember those numbers are just for explanation purposes, actual travel will vary.
So now lets say that you want to lower 2" with lower springs. With the car sitting on the ground the shock will be compressed 2" more than it was before leaving you only 1" of compression before hitting the bumpstop and 5" of extension before being fully extended. The range of motion does not change, you still have 6" of travel from fully compressed to fully extended.
So now that you have only 1" of compression before hitting the bumpstop, you will feel the car hitting the bumpstop on dips in the road or over bumps. To prevent that you can cut your bumpstop to increase the amount the shock can compress before hitting the bumpstop. If you trim 1" off the bumpstop you just doubled your travel to 2" which would be enough to prevent you from hitting the bumpstop while still providing some protection from bottoming out the shock.
#23
#24
Ok, thanks for the advice. You did an amazing job explaining that! Last question, since I'm going to have h techs, the drop will be minimal. Do you think cutting the bump tops an inch is good enough? Your example was for a 2" drop so I just want to make sure before I do something stupid lol. Thanks again!
#26
Just bought these bad boys for $271.07 shipped.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...6966&viewitem=
Anyone know of a DIY for shock installs? I couldn't find one. I'm more worried about the front. My friend is going to do all the work lol.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...6966&viewitem=
Anyone know of a DIY for shock installs? I couldn't find one. I'm more worried about the front. My friend is going to do all the work lol.
#27
Pretty good price.
https://g35driver.com/forums/brakes-...tall-only.html
Use a floor jack to take pressure/tension off the bolts when removing them and it will go smoothly.
https://g35driver.com/forums/brakes-...tall-only.html
Use a floor jack to take pressure/tension off the bolts when removing them and it will go smoothly.
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