FULL carbon fiber bumper... should i do eeete?
#31
05-08-2011 | 06:20 PM
A big thing with the CF bumper too is the ability to custom paint and have CF accents where FG number wouldn't. But currently im looking into a poly bumper since the vendors of full CF bumpers say the prep work would be the same as FG. No benefit for myself in avoiding long prep times and costs.
#32
05-08-2011 | 06:27 PM
Well most poly bumpers needs no prep work either. (besides paint prep). They offer perfect fitment. Even if it's little off, it still fits, because you can bend it.
Back in my modding days, I purchased Urethane bumpers and they all fit perfectly.
Just don't go cheap on paint because some cheap places don't prep them and the paint will start to peel off. And make sure there are some flex additive in the paint so the paint can bend and flex.
Back in my modding days, I purchased Urethane bumpers and they all fit perfectly.
Just don't go cheap on paint because some cheap places don't prep them and the paint will start to peel off. And make sure there are some flex additive in the paint so the paint can bend and flex.
#33
05-08-2011 | 07:09 PM
#34
05-09-2011 | 05:45 PM
Hello, I was posting as CarBodyKits earlier for your thread. This is my personal user name since I'm kind of confined to it for the time being, lol.
Okay here we go.. You can GOOGLE or print this out and take it to your bodyshop they will CONFIRM and price you for everything. PLEASE DO SO. I'm here to save you money and confusion not to try to sell you a high dollar invoice.
Read what I previously wrote under CARBODYKITS about carbonfiber. Unfortunately another informative post I wrote was deleted because of who it was directed too haha.. So here goes..
Fiberglass and Carbonfiber (dry or wet) will be prepped very close to the same way. Everything will be sanded SMOOTH then a primer will be coated over to fill in any imperfection and to further smoothen the surface as well as match it to factory (amount of orange peel).
So why am I asking you to NOT get a full carbon bumper, quick re-explanation:
Because of how carbonfiber pieces are manufactured the surface will not be as smooth as a fiberglass surface and it will have more imperfections that even 2k primer cannot cover! So what the bodyshop will have to do is sand further into the gelcoat to smooth as much as they can then puddy, bondo, whatever OVER to smooth everything out further.
Another problem is the gelcoat used over carbonfiber shrinks over leaving a slight "bump" on the ends of parts this isn't noticeable over carbonfiber but will be very noticeable under a glossy painted reflective surface.
Why dont you notice this because of the way carbonfiber reflects light hides much of these imperfections. With the part painted the reflection is smooth and waveyness, ends, etc.. will all be noticeable.
Fiberglass still holds imperfections such as waveyness and a non perfect surface. However with sanding and primer most imperfections will be concealed and 'prep-ed away'. Which is why a fiberglass bumper with "addCARBON" accents is the best cost-efficient solution here.
no prep carbonfiber is simply a marketing term because carbonfiber is a style and look you can simply buy the bumper and bolt it on and you're good to go.. No Prep No Paint required... (assuming everything fits). Also to my knowledge there isn't a perfect fitting fiberglass top secret front end out of the box for G35s aside from the authentic Top Secret Front from Japan (which I've owned before). If I'm wrong then that'll answer your next question on where to find a perfect fitting fiberglass TS front lol.
To answer your next question:
Poly Urethane actually takes even MORE prep then fiberglass because of its oil-based nature. Mixed with the release agent used most poly urethane parts in our low end automotive industry are not cleaned, sanded, or preped in ANYWAY before shipped to you. The result is a lot more labor for your bodyshop than fiberglass parts. Also some bodyshops who do not experience poly urethane on a daily bases will have to go out of their way to purchase necessary supplies to complete your job, usually resulting you having to pay more.
Below I've attached the steps necessary to PREP POLY URETHANE. This was written by me years ago and equal function/quality solutions can be used in place of the brands I choose to use:
1. Sand edges and seams completely
2. Wash all surfaces to be painted thoroughly with TSP in warm water and scotchbrite pads.
3. Sand surfaces to be painted with 320 wet dry sandpaper. (At this point, you should have a dull scratched appearance.)
4. Clean surface and all edges with either Dupont 2319S or Sherwin Williams R7K157 or R7K158 or equivalent.
5. Fill all imperfections (if applicable) with a flexible putty and sand smooth.
6. Apply adhesion promoter or equivalent Dupont #2322.
7. Note:some painters prefer, after cleaning the surface, to apply Dupont "Variprime". Let dry and scuff with a scothbrite pad.
8. Apply basecoat clearcoat following manufacture's recommendations for painting a flexible polyurethane plastic.
So why poly? Because of its flexibility and toughness. Poly bumpers can usually take one hell of a beating before being retired. Also they do not get small fiberglass "dimples" or indentations from small rocks under daily driving.
Next question:
How do you repair a full carbonfiber bumper? you can match the weaves and lay over it cutting off at curves or areas where light bends to blend it as best as you can for the same carbonfiber finish. OR you can simply use resin and glass over the damage and paint the whole thing.
Again the carbon will not be dry carbon because its a bumper its most likely wet hand laid. So after the polish wears off the resin will start to show its true yellow and when the gelcoat finally wares off the carbon fiber cloth will be vulnerable to damages. To keep up with maintenance looks wise just keep up with the polish and waxing of your carbon par to keep its colors. Wet sanding and repolishing with cutting compound will work too... clear coating will make carbon not as "dark" but will help keep its shine longer. Finally when you start seeing a "hole" in the gelcoat simply have the part redone.
Depending on how you maintenance this it can be 6months to years before signs of ware starts showing.
Okay here we go.. You can GOOGLE or print this out and take it to your bodyshop they will CONFIRM and price you for everything. PLEASE DO SO. I'm here to save you money and confusion not to try to sell you a high dollar invoice.
Read what I previously wrote under CARBODYKITS about carbonfiber. Unfortunately another informative post I wrote was deleted because of who it was directed too haha.. So here goes..
Fiberglass and Carbonfiber (dry or wet) will be prepped very close to the same way. Everything will be sanded SMOOTH then a primer will be coated over to fill in any imperfection and to further smoothen the surface as well as match it to factory (amount of orange peel).
So why am I asking you to NOT get a full carbon bumper, quick re-explanation:
Because of how carbonfiber pieces are manufactured the surface will not be as smooth as a fiberglass surface and it will have more imperfections that even 2k primer cannot cover! So what the bodyshop will have to do is sand further into the gelcoat to smooth as much as they can then puddy, bondo, whatever OVER to smooth everything out further.
Another problem is the gelcoat used over carbonfiber shrinks over leaving a slight "bump" on the ends of parts this isn't noticeable over carbonfiber but will be very noticeable under a glossy painted reflective surface.
Why dont you notice this because of the way carbonfiber reflects light hides much of these imperfections. With the part painted the reflection is smooth and waveyness, ends, etc.. will all be noticeable.
Fiberglass still holds imperfections such as waveyness and a non perfect surface. However with sanding and primer most imperfections will be concealed and 'prep-ed away'. Which is why a fiberglass bumper with "addCARBON" accents is the best cost-efficient solution here.
no prep carbonfiber is simply a marketing term because carbonfiber is a style and look you can simply buy the bumper and bolt it on and you're good to go.. No Prep No Paint required... (assuming everything fits). Also to my knowledge there isn't a perfect fitting fiberglass top secret front end out of the box for G35s aside from the authentic Top Secret Front from Japan (which I've owned before). If I'm wrong then that'll answer your next question on where to find a perfect fitting fiberglass TS front lol.
To answer your next question:
Poly Urethane actually takes even MORE prep then fiberglass because of its oil-based nature. Mixed with the release agent used most poly urethane parts in our low end automotive industry are not cleaned, sanded, or preped in ANYWAY before shipped to you. The result is a lot more labor for your bodyshop than fiberglass parts. Also some bodyshops who do not experience poly urethane on a daily bases will have to go out of their way to purchase necessary supplies to complete your job, usually resulting you having to pay more.
Below I've attached the steps necessary to PREP POLY URETHANE. This was written by me years ago and equal function/quality solutions can be used in place of the brands I choose to use:
1. Sand edges and seams completely
2. Wash all surfaces to be painted thoroughly with TSP in warm water and scotchbrite pads.
3. Sand surfaces to be painted with 320 wet dry sandpaper. (At this point, you should have a dull scratched appearance.)
4. Clean surface and all edges with either Dupont 2319S or Sherwin Williams R7K157 or R7K158 or equivalent.
5. Fill all imperfections (if applicable) with a flexible putty and sand smooth.
6. Apply adhesion promoter or equivalent Dupont #2322.
7. Note:some painters prefer, after cleaning the surface, to apply Dupont "Variprime". Let dry and scuff with a scothbrite pad.
8. Apply basecoat clearcoat following manufacture's recommendations for painting a flexible polyurethane plastic.
So why poly? Because of its flexibility and toughness. Poly bumpers can usually take one hell of a beating before being retired. Also they do not get small fiberglass "dimples" or indentations from small rocks under daily driving.
Next question:
How do you repair a full carbonfiber bumper? you can match the weaves and lay over it cutting off at curves or areas where light bends to blend it as best as you can for the same carbonfiber finish. OR you can simply use resin and glass over the damage and paint the whole thing.
Again the carbon will not be dry carbon because its a bumper its most likely wet hand laid. So after the polish wears off the resin will start to show its true yellow and when the gelcoat finally wares off the carbon fiber cloth will be vulnerable to damages. To keep up with maintenance looks wise just keep up with the polish and waxing of your carbon par to keep its colors. Wet sanding and repolishing with cutting compound will work too... clear coating will make carbon not as "dark" but will help keep its shine longer. Finally when you start seeing a "hole" in the gelcoat simply have the part redone.
Depending on how you maintenance this it can be 6months to years before signs of ware starts showing.
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