Hey guys,

I was fortunate enough to pick up a 3.5 VLSD pumpkin last week. Decided to tackle the install this afternoon with a buddy of mine. Everything went super smooth until we tried to remove the support nut on the rear of the pumpkin. Long story short. We rounded the nut pretty damn bad. My question to you all is, what tool have you guys personally used with good result for a situation like this?? I've seen a few damaged nut removal products on the Sears website, just looking for some insight!

Thanks in advance!
-Sean

 

I went to an auto parts store recently and saw a tool just for this. Cant remember too much about it, but go check it out.

 

http://www.sears.com:80/shc/s/p_1015...1&blockType=G1

ive used this many times and it works great

 

Sears makes a tool called a "Damaged Bolt/Remover" which is phenomenal. I own a set and have used them a ton of times. These things work wonders and can take a serious beating without breaking or even getting damaged.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952166000P

Before you try to use it on the bolt/nut, heat the bolt up with a torch so it's really hot(just the bolt, not the metal around it that it seats into), and then spray some SeaFoam Deep Creep on the bolt around the threads while it's still piping hot, and it should work its way into the threads as the metal cools quickly. Don't try this with PB-Blaster... PB blaster will just catch on fire and make a possibly dangerous situation for you. The Deep Creep will not catch on fire when sprayed on a hot bolt. Do this a few times before you try to take the bolt out, and then try to remove it when the bolt is still warm using the bolt-extractor tool that I showed you above. I've done this on exhaust manifold bolts, Oxygen Sensor nuts, and even on stripped lug nuts on a buddy's car. It's pretty amazing how easily you can get some of these things out when you combine the heat and SeaFoam Deep Creep combo and the gripping ability of those Bolt/Nut extractors.

Take your time, and good luck!

 

Ouch, but ^ thats probably your best bet. I hope it works for you.
I dont recall how much room is between the housing and the crossmember (where the bolt goes through) but if you had to, could you get a sawsall up there and cut the bolt off? You would need a new cover for the old Diff if you were to sell it, but it might get it out in a pinch. I recently did my rear pumpkin, but I dont recall if there is much room between the crossmember and the rear cover.
Try Va 04's recomendation first though. Best of luck.

 

Thanks for the fast replies everyone. Only delimma here is I don't have clear access to the nut. It's about 1 1/2 inches deep in an enclosure. Here is a pic from a DIY posted here on driver.



I removed a heat shield attached to the rear of the muffler to give me a little more room. Are any of these tools you guys posted deep socket type??

 

^ yeah I know, thats why I was hoping the other options would work, but offered up my sawsall idea. Thats a last resort, but if you can get it in between the pumpkin and the crossmember. You may need to just cut it off and replace the cover (with stud)..I just cant say if you can do that. My buddy helped me swap the pumpkin and he was on the input side and I was on the output side, seemed like there was room....though.hopefully X

 

Yeah I used a sawsall on a nut once but for this project its out of the picture. Then on the other side of the pumpkin, there isn't even access to the bolt in order to cut it. Ugh, I cannot stand my open diff anymore. Its such a burden on the backroads!