If I lower my car, do I need a camber kit?
#47
I drove ttrank's car solo
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G35 sedan w/ too much money in mods
#48
You don't know till you try them. Do you have experience with Godspeed? or are you speaking out of the blue just because it is not a well known brand? lol. They seem build as good as other brands, the only difference is the brand. As time progresses I will know how to work. So far they seem nice and have softened up the road for me. Grip feels better as well. I am trying to get the whiteline buschings to to a proper alignment and that should be that to better test out the camber kit.
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#49
If it does somehow end up going wrong, I will see then. besides, time has progressed and companies do better the products. So far they are working good for my car. I am just waiting on getting those whiteline bushings to replace the bushings in the front lower control arm to be able to align the car properly.
Last edited by gat0713; 06-03-2011 at 10:56 AM.
#50
Yes. Usually 20" rims are pretty heavy. Mine are around 45lbs each. Which is ridiculouse if you ask me. The car already has camber issues stock. Once you get bigger rims, camber can be affected. Which is why it is usually recommended to have a camber kit. My car as stock suspension. Eibach lowering springs is all I have different. =)
#51
#53
#57
Just goes to show that OE specs don't mean much here.
I've always had custom alignment specs as I've never liked the dull handling characteristics of OE specs. The only part of the alignment I really care to be near OE specs is toe, and I typically run a good amount of camber and rarely have had that negatively affect tire wear. I've had my current tires for more than a year now, and these RE760s still have a lot of life left even with the 2, 3 degrees of camber.
I've always had custom alignment specs as I've never liked the dull handling characteristics of OE specs. The only part of the alignment I really care to be near OE specs is toe, and I typically run a good amount of camber and rarely have had that negatively affect tire wear. I've had my current tires for more than a year now, and these RE760s still have a lot of life left even with the 2, 3 degrees of camber.
#58
it all depends on what brand and size tire you run and every car accepts drops differently.
My G is dropped on 350z H techs (if you can even call it a drop) and obviously suspension geometry was off. When I ran toyos, I would get insane camber wear (POS soft tire). When I switched to Vredestein and went up on a size............I did not get any camber wear at all. Recently I got camber arms for rear susp (car was T-boned and sustained damage to rear susp components) and corrected toe and camber with them, front remains the same to this day and I don't have any sufficient camber wear that would justify purchase of front camber arms.
My G is dropped on 350z H techs (if you can even call it a drop) and obviously suspension geometry was off. When I ran toyos, I would get insane camber wear (POS soft tire). When I switched to Vredestein and went up on a size............I did not get any camber wear at all. Recently I got camber arms for rear susp (car was T-boned and sustained damage to rear susp components) and corrected toe and camber with them, front remains the same to this day and I don't have any sufficient camber wear that would justify purchase of front camber arms.
#59
it all depends on what brand and size tire you run and every car accepts drops differently.
My G is dropped on 350z H techs (if you can even call it a drop) and obviously suspension geometry was off. When I ran toyos, I would get insane camber wear (POS soft tire). When I switched to Vredestein and went up on a size............I did not get any camber wear at all. Recently I got camber arms for rear susp (car was T-boned and sustained damage to rear susp components) and corrected toe and camber with them, front remains the same to this day and I don't have any sufficient camber wear that would justify purchase of front camber arms.
My G is dropped on 350z H techs (if you can even call it a drop) and obviously suspension geometry was off. When I ran toyos, I would get insane camber wear (POS soft tire). When I switched to Vredestein and went up on a size............I did not get any camber wear at all. Recently I got camber arms for rear susp (car was T-boned and sustained damage to rear susp components) and corrected toe and camber with them, front remains the same to this day and I don't have any sufficient camber wear that would justify purchase of front camber arms.
Bushings play a part in alignment also, so that'll be the next thing I tackle. Getting the alignment dialed in and keeping it there when lowering by any amount is a freaking hassle on these cars. Get ready to spend some jack.
#60
He nailed it....^....install the springs, wait at least a week for them to settle then get an alignment (not Firestone/PepBoys or Sears) and when they're finished ask the tech if you're close to OE specs....very close. If not get the SPL camber/toe bolts here on DRIVER under MARKETPLACE vendor suspension.
Gary
Gary