G35 Coupe V35 2003 - 07 Discussion about the 1st Generation V35 G35 Coupe

Pleaseee help!!!!

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  #31  
Old 09-14-2011, 12:50 AM
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Cleaning and a reset might fix the problem. Just be careful not to brake anything or you'll have more headaches. If it the CEL comes back on, you will possibly need that TPS and the idle relearn. Have you tried taking this to the dealership you bought it from and see if it is under warranty? You should have atleast 30bdays warranty.
 
  #32  
Old 09-14-2011, 03:05 AM
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Originally Posted by jef_gutjr
Cleaning and a reset might fix the problem. Just be careful not to brake anything or you'll have more headaches. If it the CEL comes back on, you will possibly need that TPS and the idle relearn. Have you tried taking this to the dealership you bought it from and see if it is under warranty? You should have atleast 30bdays warranty.
If you got it from ANY dealership, you should be covered for 30 to 90 days. I would call them right away!
 
  #33  
Old 09-14-2011, 12:34 PM
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no dealership guys, i bought it privately...and as for the cowboys...all it took was 5 minutes in the 4th quarter to completly blow that game...jason wittens pass intereference call which would have led to an miles austin first down...blocked punt for a touchdown, and that sweet interception who romos supposedly intended target was dez bryant...my a**...why do i like the cowboys?
 
  #34  
Old 09-14-2011, 05:17 PM
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Ok guys so I searched our threads for a DIY throttle body clean, and I pulled a big one up... So here's what I did today...
Bought some throttle body cleaner from parts source and removed the negative terminal on my battery... After that I pulled off my stock intake and saw a black throttle body! For anyone that hasn't cleaned there tb, I highly recommend it.. The car is noticeably more responsive now!
Only problem was I wasn't able to get the 4 bolts off the tb, so I left the tb on and grabbed a towel and old toothbrush and went to town. My car is a 2004 with 55*** miles and was filthy before I got to it today... Anyways the service engine light is off right now and the car is driving smoother... Cross your fingers for me that the light doesn't cone back on!
 
  #35  
Old 09-14-2011, 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by pearl hill
i bought the car certified, which in ontario canada means the car has to go through a vigorous inspection from head to toe, front to back checking most things on the car...it passed lol and i was trying to arrange my mechanic to look at the car, but the seller lived about 40 mins away and it really didnt work out for neither me or the seller due to our hefty work scheduals
Ooooooo, don't place too much faith in it being "certified". The car may have passed the Ontario safety and e-test but that does not mean the car is sound mechanically. The safety is not an exhaustive or intrusive inspection - it simply means the car meets the minimum safety requirements in Ontario - I recommend doing a search for what that means exactly; you may be surprised. As for intrusive inspection, I mean the mechanic doesn't start tearing things apart to see if everything is OK. He checks things like the brakes: rotor thickness & condition and pad thickness and condition plus the brake line condition, which are safety issues. There could easily be issues with the master cylinder or fluid or anything else with the brakes, which would not be in the inspection and could present issues later on.

As a concrete example, I bought a car in Ontario years ago and it passed the safety. Exactly one month later, the muffler fell off from rust. I took it back to the same mechanic and complained but he said he did a visual inspection and saw no rust issues with the muffler - thus it passed. He explained that had he done a more intrusive inspection or even a teardown, he would have easily seen the rust and would have failed it. But based on only what he saw, it passed. Mechanics do not do intrusive inspections since it may cause damage and they would be liable...

So bring your car to a mechanic you trust and have it inspected properly - never depend on the provincial safety or e-testing alone...

I hope this helps....
 

Last edited by g35dalf; 09-14-2011 at 05:31 PM.
  #36  
Old 09-14-2011, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by pearl hill
Ok guys so I searched our threads for a DIY throttle body clean, and I pulled a big one up... So here's what I did today...
Bought some throttle body cleaner from parts source and removed the negative terminal on my battery... After that I pulled off my stock intake and saw a black throttle body! For anyone that hasn't cleaned there tb, I highly recommend it.. The car is noticeably more responsive now!
Only problem was I wasn't able to get the 4 bolts off the tb, so I left the tb on and grabbed a towel and old toothbrush and went to town. My car is a 2004 with 55*** miles and was filthy before I got to it today... Anyways the service engine light is off right now and the car is driving smoother... Cross your fingers for me that the light doesn't cone back on!
You need to do a throttle body relearn theres a DIY. If not the idle will either be to high or to low. Glad to hear its running right again
 
  #37  
Old 09-14-2011, 06:01 PM
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I was under the impression that I only had to do th relearn if I unplugged the harness from the tb?
 
  #38  
Old 09-15-2011, 12:29 AM
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Update guys... 12:30 am I'm literally in my drive way, just got home from work and minutes ago my service engine light came on... What's my next step here guys?
 
  #39  
Old 09-15-2011, 12:36 AM
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lol....did when you cleaned the TB did you move the butterfly valve? If so do a TB relearn

what RPM is your engine idling at?

any other symptoms ?
 
  #40  
Old 09-15-2011, 02:06 AM
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Yup I moved the butterfly, my engine is idling anywhere from 800-1200 rpm it seems like, only other symptoms might be my washer jet nozzle being clogged lol, bug in all honesty no other symptoms. Anyone no how to dona reset on the throttle,?
And by doing a reset on the tb will that clear the service engine light?
 
  #41  
Old 09-15-2011, 09:37 PM
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Do the ODB check first
 
  #42  
Old 09-15-2011, 09:42 PM
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Listen, if the car is turning on and it's stay at 0 RPM, Clearly your either out of transmision oil, or your trans is just gone. Same thing happened to me trust me.. my dad is a mechanic so he got it down in a heart beat.
 
  #43  
Old 09-15-2011, 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by pearl hill
Yup I moved the butterfly, my engine is idling anywhere from 800-1200 rpm it seems like, only other symptoms might be my washer jet nozzle being clogged lol, bug in all honesty no other symptoms. Anyone no how to dona reset on the throttle,?
And by doing a reset on the tb will that clear the service engine light?
no, it wont clear the SES light, i have those instructions saved somewhere but dont do it unless you figure out the problem -_- thats what its there for lol. clearing the light wont clear your problem, it will only make it a LOT harder for anyone to diagnose your problem. but as for the throttle reset procedure...



A. Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning Procedure.
1. Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds (how would you know if you get it right?)


B. Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning
1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch is “ON”.
3. Turn ignition switch is “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound (i never get this right because i never heard anything)

C. Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)
It's best to time with a watch/clock.
1. Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning”.
2. Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning”.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
5. Conform that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD)
7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops
blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11 Wait 20 seconds
12Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications. (this is fine because SES light lets you know if you did it right the way it blinks)
 
  #44  
Old 09-20-2011, 11:21 PM
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ok guys sorry about the delay....ive been EXTREMELY BUSY the last few days and havent had time for anything...with that being said, i started my car this morning and it happened again... car was on but i wasnt able to rev the engine...limp mode i guess. anyways tommorow im going to attempt to do the throttle body reset... question though, how will i no i have reset the throttle body? am i suposed to assume that i did everything correctly after i complet it? or will something noticeable happen after i complete the reset?
 
  #45  
Old 09-20-2011, 11:32 PM
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im pretty sure some of your dash lights are suppose to blink so something like that
 


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