Basic ECU Reset</u>

Operations Procedures:

1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” (NOT start) and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 seconds.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone. If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Remember, timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU. You may even need someone's help to do this correctly.


Note: The following reset procedures are directly from the 2004 G35 Sedan Service Manual.

<u>Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning</u>

Description:
Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning is an operation to learn the fully released position of the accelerator pedal by monitoring the accelerator pedal position sensor output signal. It must be performed each time harness connector of accelerator pedal position sensor or ECM is disconnected.

Operation Procedure:
1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch ON and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch ON and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.


<u>Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning</u>

Description:
Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning is an operation to learn the fully closed position of the throttle valve by monitoring the throttle position sensor output signal. It must be performed each time harness connector of electric throttle control actuator or ECM is disconnected.

Operation Procedure:
1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch ON.
3. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.


<u>Idle Air Volume Learning</u>

Description:
Idle Air Volume Learning is an operation to learn the idle air volume that keeps each engine within the specific range. It must be performed each time electric throttle control actuator or ECM is replaced, or if idle speed or ignition timing is out of specification.

Preparation:
Before performing Idle Air Volume Learning, make sure that all of the following conditions are satisfied. Learning will be cancelled if any of the following conditions are missed for even a moment.

- Battery voltage: More than 12.9V (At idle)
- Engine coolant temperature: 70 - 100 Degrees C (158 – 212 Degrees F)
- PNP switch: ON (Park/Neutral Position Safety Switch - AT only, MT fully depress clutch)
- Electric load switch: OFF (Air conditioner, rear window defogger, headlamps. Note: on vehicles equipped with daytime light systems, if the parking brake is applied before the engine is started, the headlamps will not be illuminated.)
- Steering wheel: Neutral (Straight-ahead position)
- Vehicle speed: Stopped
- Transmission: Warmed-up (For A/T models, drive vehicle for 10 minutes.)

Operation Procedure:
1. Perform "Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning"
2. Perform "Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning"
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Check that all items listed under the topic PREPARATION (previously mentioned) are in good order.
5. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
6. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch ON and wait 3 seconds.
7. Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds:
7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal.
7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the MIL stops blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the MIL turned ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure that idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications:

Idle speed A/T: 650rpm, + or - 50 rpm (in P or N position)
Idle speed M/T: 650rpm, + or - 50 rpm (in N position)
Ignition timing A/T: 15 Degrees BTDC, + or – 5 Degrees BTDC (in P or N position)
Ignition timing M/T: 15 Degrees BTDC, + or – 5 Degrees BTDC (in N position)

13. If idle speed and ignition timing are not within the specification, Idle Air Volume Learning will not be carried out successfully. If idle speed and ignition timing are within the specification and Idle Air Volume Learning cannot be performed successfully, find the cause of the incident by referring to the following Diagnostic Procedure:

1. Check that throttle valve is fully closed.
2. Check PCV valve operation.
3. Check that downstream of throttle valve is free from air leakage.
4. When the above three items check out OK, engine component parts and their installation condition are questionable.
5. If any of the following conditions occur after the engine has started, eliminate the cause of the incident and perform Idle Air Volume Learning all over again:

- Engine stalls.
- Erroneous idle.

 

^^^ thanks alot. will try that tomorrow... one more question, what is the RPM supposed to be at idle? since the battery change the car has been idling at around 600 RPM

 

get the optima yellow top and your problem is fixed

 

The 600 RPM is perfect idle warmed up. Question avnger, with all these posts did you check to see if your alternator is charging correctly or if your battery has a dead cell? That should be your first priority not all this reset crap!
Gary

 

*puts a pillow between Gary's head and the brick wall he's banging it against*

Pull the battery, take it to Autozone/Firestone/Advance/Goodyear/NTB, etc. It's free, painless, and actually quite informative.

 

ok I finally got the time to reset the ECU (took me about 3 tries to get it right) and after resetting it and driving it most of the day today it hasn't failed at all. Thanks to EVERYONE who replied

 

I see this thread continuing...

 

mind if I ask why?...... second day and it hasn't failed at all

 

Well... You DID post again....

 

sometimes people forgot to mention other information when they asked for help, therefore it is always safer to ask if they had done other activities. and honestly, i know it is not the battery or alternator issue because he did not mention electronic does not get power. Therefore it is either air or fuel issue. but it is very unlikely fuel pump just die from this incident therefore I asked about if there is any leak.