G35 Coupe wrecked
#16
12-27-2004, 01:24 PM
The M3 is a nice car, but there are a few things to watch out for with them:
1. As mentioned, the early 2001-2002 models had a relatively high incident of catastrophic engine failure. There have been two recalls for this problem that I'm aware of. BMW thinks it was an oil pump problem and a batch of bad rod bearings, but they don't seem 100% sure of themselves. In other words, its not entirely clear if they have identified and fixed the problem yet. I think there have been a few new cases of '03 and '04 motors failing in the same way. IMO, its more of a design flaw of the engine, in that its stroke is much too long for the revs it turns.
2. The M3 is a fairly high maintenance car. For example, it needs special differential fluid changed at somewhat frequent intervals, it needs its valve lash adjusted periodically, etc.
3. The M3, like other German cars, can be VERY expensive to repair out of warranty, and expensive to insure because of the costly German parts. My advise is to keep the car only during the warranty period - once the warranty is up, dump it fast or it will own you and your wallet. And check out the insurance rates on the car before you buy it. You may be in for a shock. Put it this way: I was looking at buying an M3, and I checked the insurance, and it was considerably more expensive than the insurance on my Z06!
1. As mentioned, the early 2001-2002 models had a relatively high incident of catastrophic engine failure. There have been two recalls for this problem that I'm aware of. BMW thinks it was an oil pump problem and a batch of bad rod bearings, but they don't seem 100% sure of themselves. In other words, its not entirely clear if they have identified and fixed the problem yet. I think there have been a few new cases of '03 and '04 motors failing in the same way. IMO, its more of a design flaw of the engine, in that its stroke is much too long for the revs it turns.
2. The M3 is a fairly high maintenance car. For example, it needs special differential fluid changed at somewhat frequent intervals, it needs its valve lash adjusted periodically, etc.
3. The M3, like other German cars, can be VERY expensive to repair out of warranty, and expensive to insure because of the costly German parts. My advise is to keep the car only during the warranty period - once the warranty is up, dump it fast or it will own you and your wallet. And check out the insurance rates on the car before you buy it. You may be in for a shock. Put it this way: I was looking at buying an M3, and I checked the insurance, and it was considerably more expensive than the insurance on my Z06!
Last edited by Z06ified; 12-27-2004 at 01:32 PM.
#17
12-27-2004, 02:33 PM
#18
12-27-2004, 02:40 PM
Originally Posted by JoeyG35
Approx. $40K for a nice low mile one.
The problem is, a lot of the earlier model years are affected by the engine failure
problem.
Check this link for more information:
http://members.roadfly.com/jason/m3engines.htm
So you could buy a brand new 2005 G35 with 300hp, or you could buy a used
M3 with 333hp, but risk engine failure, dealership warranty woes, and other
miscellaneous BMW break-down problems.
The problem is, a lot of the earlier model years are affected by the engine failure
problem.
Check this link for more information:
http://members.roadfly.com/jason/m3engines.htm
So you could buy a brand new 2005 G35 with 300hp, or you could buy a used
M3 with 333hp, but risk engine failure, dealership warranty woes, and other
miscellaneous BMW break-down problems.
Honestly a 300 hp g compared tot he m3's 33 means absolutely NOTHING! Ive seen tests of tt g35s and sc g35's and none broke 4 sec 0-60 barriers and are getting 13.4-7's, thats garbage IMO! That was int he new road and track SPEED edition and both are pushing over 400 hp! The lowest M3 test was 4.5 0-60 and 13 flat 1/4 mile and avg is 4.7/13.3! The car is a beast and with a professional drag racer will be in high 12's stock, ive seen it and have videos to prove
#19
12-27-2004, 05:28 PM
Originally Posted by riotgear
I had 2.5k miles on the tires and there were was no visible wear the tires. Do you think the camber is putting excessive pressure on the tires? Did your blow from the inside or outside?
I suppose that could be the cause. I had just checked the pressure recently when mine blew. I dont think the camber angle is optimal for bigger tires. Mine blew on the inside.
Here is my cheesey drawing of what I think happens with wider rims and tires. The red part is the part that is hitting the road that in a perfect set up shouldn't be.
#20
12-27-2004, 06:00 PM
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