There are two camshaft sensors, one on the right engine bank and the other one on the left engine bank. I do not think its the crankshaft sensor, which is just one. You can buy them at your local auto parts store or online. I think you should still do the code scanner just to get the exact codes. The codes will tell you exactly which sensors to replace or if there is anything else wrong with your G. Check the links, hopefully these help you out.

http://www.6mt.net/forum/g35-sedan-2...how-clear.html

http://www.6mt.net/forum/g35-coupe/3...-location.html

https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-cou...y-version.html

https://g35driver.com/forums/engine-...n-sensors.html

 

could it have codes even though there is no SES light?

 

Yes it could have codes if there is not SES light. I had codes on and didnt have a SES light, my SES light only went on when my camshaft sensors went out and i have to replace them.

 

You need a new starter. As I said WAAAY early in this thread, your starter solenoid is probably sticking. Try putting a wooden dowel against the starter and smacking the other end of the dowel with a hammer so that an abrupt shock is delivered to the starter, and then try to start it again and see if it starts. If it does, it's definitely the starter solenoid.

 

Forget about the starter, if you got it jumped and it started fine I think you need a battery and alternator.

 

O read pages 2 and 3, CHANGE THAT STARTER!!

 

you just said forget about it. make up your mind?

so far in this thread i'm supposed to replace the battery, starter, alternator, CPS and KPS. anything else?

Id rather go step by step and do my research than jump on buying parts and hoping they work. Already spent 200 on a battery that did nothing

 

Starterrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

 

I wouldn't consider that purchase of a new battery a waste at this point. If you're still on your OEM battery from an '04, it needed to be replaced within a year or so anyways..... better to get it over with now rather than have it leave you stranded alone somewhere in a parking lot on a cold, dark night when you're tired. It's actually better to replace your battery before it's completely dead anyways, since you can put a significant load on your alternator if it's always trying to charge and top-off a battery that won't ever reach it's peak capacity anymore due to age and the rigors of the summer heat.

I just ordered a new battery for my '04 G35 even though my OEM battery still starts the car. The car doesn't start very convincingly with that OEM battery in it anymore, even though it will still start the car after sitting for a week or 2 without being driven(at least right now, but probably not after another summer's worth of heat abuse).

 

Honestly I'm not complaining about the price of the battery, i wasted 200 bucks on way worse things. My point was if you're gonna suggest something like replacing the starter please backup your opinion or explain why would you think its causing the problem. My old battery started my G35 when it was -35 *C outside and my block heater was not plugged in. That's pretty damn impressive.

AARONHL i really appreciate your help, but please if you can explain to why you think thats the problem that would be great.

My previous battery was NOT the OEM battery, it was an aftermarket 650 CCA battery, stock is 550 i think?

 

My friend had to replace his starter on two cars. First was his Nissan Maxima, which didn't even turn over, just clicked...and second was his Mazda Millenia, which acted just like a dead battery. Starters just act weird sometimes. On my Maxima it would "over spin" and not turn the engine over. You car sometimes starts, sometimes it doesn't...so what's prohibiting it from actually trying to turn over??

I see that your battery and charging system as been tested after replacing the battery. You have plenty of volts and definitely enough amps to crank the engine over if the battery has been running for a few miles. Since you have not done any other recent engine modifications, you should check the starter next. Your CEL isn't showing so it's PROBABLY not anything serious.

 

I already explained to you several times in earlier posts within this thread on what to do the next time your car doesn't start in order to isolate it to the starter(wooden dowel and hammer). It's not a 100% pure way to tell if the starter is the problem, but I don't think any 100% way exists. The thing you need to keep in mind about a starter is that when the solenoid starts to stick, it's an intermittent problem that will only get worse with time, and the check that they did on the starter can't test for a failing solenoid unless the car fails to start when they try to start it.

If the solenoid is sticking, you will just get a loud click when you try to engage the starter, but no actual turnover. If your battery is putting out good power, your battery terminals are connected tightly, there's no loose connections on the starter wires, the motor is not seized and you get that loud click when you try to start it then the problem is the starter.

Normally you'd worry about the clutch sensor too, but that's not the problem since your starter is actually engaging as supported by the fact that it's clicking.

 

Much appreciated, but the things is I tried hitting the starter with a piece of wood few times and it did nothing, usually that gets it going if its dying. Not a guaranteed way but works 99% of the time. I just realized my issue started after my clutch install, so it might be related to the lighter flywheel or maybe the idiots at the shop left a loose wire at the starter since both battery terminals were super loose when i got the car back.

I actually tried that when it first started i tried it a good half a dozen times when someone is trying to start and im hitting the starter (not so hard) and it didnt fire up. As i mentioned above, i just had my flywheel and clutch replaced. i know some guys had trouble with the lighter flywheels. Also Im gonna check if my starter wires are loose

 

It's not a surefire way to un-stick the solenoid, but it does work some of the time. You need to give it a really good pop with the hammer to jar the solenoid though.

There's pretty much about a 90% chance it's your starter based on the description of the problem and the fact that it's intermittent.