G35 Coupe V35 2003 - 07 Discussion about the 1st Generation V35 G35 Coupe

More power than ever after battery replacement!

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  #31  
Old 03-06-2012, 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by xXHotelCrazyXx
You guys are a lost cause... I am losing hope in this forum...
got a new video with your current set up yet?



 
  #32  
Old 03-07-2012, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by leanlikeacello
i have at and didn't feel anything different after replacing mine :\
+1000
 
  #33  
Old 03-07-2012, 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by STAP IT
got a new video with your current set up yet?



exhaust?
 
  #34  
Old 03-08-2012, 06:39 AM
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the entire car deserve a new video!
 
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  #35  
Old 03-08-2012, 11:27 AM
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.........and the thread has derailed............
 
  #36  
Old 03-08-2012, 11:28 AM
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Thread was derailed on page 1. Post #5.
 
  #37  
Old 03-08-2012, 01:54 PM
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True, true.
 
  #38  
Old 03-08-2012, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by STAP IT
Thread was derailed on page 1. Post #5.
Na, almost tho. You guys can pm each other. Keep it on point.

Lol @ GAU..
Your problem is you didn't get the duralast gold. Makes all the differnce..
lol. Na really, I wouldn't expect that you would notice something on your cars. I've replaced dozens of batteries in different vehicles. Only time I've ever noticed is now. Every car is different, some set up better than others. Probably a rare event either way.. How are you liking the grounding kit? I've got the itch to spend somethin' on the car these days. Actually considering the thought of gettin' one.

And oh, thanks for the line... Mwahahahaahhaha.
 
  #39  
Old 03-08-2012, 07:37 PM
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I bought the grounding kit simply for the 5AT. If it were a 6MT I would have passed. I think I got better results from the shift kit.

Oh, I never said I didn't get the Duralast, lol. I actually have the Duralast Gold in both cars. I only shop AutoZone for my little parts like that.
 
  #40  
Old 03-08-2012, 08:29 PM
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I have a JDM battery I can sell you: +0 HP +5tq though
 
  #41  
Old 05-22-2012, 05:26 PM
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I'm sorry to resurrect this fairly old thread, but I can't *not* comment on one statement...

Originally Posted by GAU-8
... It's trying to charge the battery (that won't take a charge) so it heats up the internals since all that power has nowhere to go. Overheats - bam - premature failure.
False... power is *drawn* from the source, not pushed. So purely from a power systems perspective, the generator (alternator) may fail earlier when the battery is failed because it has *more* load on it due to a battery that draws more current but can't hold the charge. However, if the battery simply isn't there, there is no reason for the alternator to work harder, overheat and fail (but see next point).

Fundamentally what xXHotelCrazyXx is saying is essentially correct in that the battery is only used to start the car. Contrary to what someone else stated, the alternator is producing DC power because it contains within it a power rectifier (AC-DC convertor) in the form of big diodes, plus a voltage and current regulator. The missing part in this discussion is that this type of AC-DC power convertor needs one crucial element to work correctly - a capacitor... and, guess what?... a battery is a giant capacitor in effect.

So, yes, a car can run only on the alternator and, yes, it can run only on the battery. But without both being present and working correctly, the electrical system can't either function for very long (on battery) or will be noisy (due to the lack of a capacitor to smooth out the DC voltage).

In the end, xXHotelCrazyXx and GAU-8 are both correct! I won't comment on the orginal poster's assertion however

Sunil
 
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