Ever since I started driving the G (21,000 miles on it - previous owner was my brother), the gas gauge didn't work. If I were to fill up when it read empty, I might be lucky to get 12 gallons in. Over time, it just got worse. Even after a fill up it would just read 1/4 full. Eventually I just gave up and would fill up every 200 miles. After my driving became more consistent I upped it to 250 miles, then 300. Then one day I was at 290 miles and ran out of gas on the freeway. This was the first time it happened, and I wanted it to be the last. It was fortunate that it was one of the rare occasions I was in the slow lane and could easily pull over.

So I had read this Q-tip trick a few times and decided to give it a shot tonight. I had read this thread before and so I had a good idea of what to do.

The rear seat came off pretty quickly. You just pull upward at the front of each rear seat (the whole thing is one bench, but the points where it attaches are right between the knees of a would be passenger. After you pop those two points up, it just slides forward and out. Be sure to help the seat belt buckles slide through the slots. I removed the seat and set it in my garage.

I did the driver's side first. This side has the fuel sending unit only, so it's easier than the passenger side which has the fuel pump). I used a Phillips screwdriver to turn the little locks (4 of them) to take off the weather seal plate. I unplugged the plug and let the seal plate and let it hang off to the side. I then wiped the area down with some wet paper towels, since the gas tank is actually completely exposed to the elements, there's some crud on it. Then there are 6 screws you have to remove which removes the ring that holds the fuel sending unit in. I held the fuel sending unit down with my hands but removed the ring. I then re-wiped the area (careful to keep the sending unit held down so it stayed sealed) to get rid of any debris. I lifted the fuel sending unit up and used about 6 q-tips (both sides of each one) wiping the sending unit clean. I put the sending unit back in, put the black ring that secures it over it, and screwed it down in a star pattern to make sure it was properly seated. I then plugged the unit back in, replaced the weather seal plate, and locked it in place.

I then did the drivers side. At this point, my car had been sitting about 3 hours, so I was hoping most of the pressure had bled away. I did the same as above to get to the unit (and getting the unit loose). I pulled the fuel line (had some dry paper towels handy to absorb the fuel that came out - it wasn't a ton - 3-4 paper towels is more than enough to easily soak up anything that comes out). There is other stuff that appeared to be attached to the fuel pump/sending unit from within the tank, so I didn't elect to completely remove it. I simply lifted it enough so I could use the q-tips on the contacts. I used 6 q-tips here as well and reinstalled the sending unit. However, on this side, I waited to lock down the weather seal plate (I did plug the unit back in).

I started my car and while it idled, checked the fuel line for leaks. After I confirmed there was no leaks, I decided to head down to the gas station to top off the tank. As I was driving I noticed my tank read just under half full now (right before I started the whole DIY it was reading bone dry). I arrived at the gas station and checked the fuel line yet again for any signs of leakage - none. I filled up the tank. Got in the car, started it - gas gauge jumped to max. ABOVE the full line. YES!

Drove back home, checked the fuel line for leaks a 3rd time, then replaced the weather seal plate, and put the seat cushion back in.

I then had to drive about 90 miles to pick up my girlfriend for the weekend. Before, driving 90 miles would ensure my tank read empty if it wasn't already reading that (no matter how much gas was in it prior). This time, it dropped less than 1/4 of a tank, which seems like what it should be.

I'll update this in a couple weeks after I've put a few tanks through.

All in all, this was a very easy DIY. All you need is a single screwdriver and some time. It took me about an hour and a half and this was me being extra cautious. I could probably re-do the whole thing in 30 minutes or less if I had to do it again. If your gas gauge doesn't work, give this a shot!

 

Every one of these threads gives me courage to try it out, I think I'm gonna do it, Thanks

 

I need to hop on this once my other issues are addressed. Mines not as drastic but I could turn the car off one night with half a tank reading and come out in the morning and it says I have less than 1/4. Thanks for the info

 

My gauge isnt too crazy but is never correct and never reads below a quarter full. I have tried this 3 times and it hasnt helped me

 

gonna try this now. I rearly get a full tank reading and my needle goes below the empty mark then back up again then back below???

 

I have a simular issue. I want to encourage everyone to call the consumer affairs so we can get a recall on this stuff: 1800 662 6200. I was on hold for 20 mins but I think it was worth it.

 

tried the Q-tip on the driver side sending unit, it worked like a charm i never saw my gas needle go so far past the F before thanks for the tip Q-tip that is.

 

I've had similar issues. car rarely filled more than 12 gallons since I bought it (12/2009, 20k miles), then she started only reading 3/4 full when I filled her up 1 yr later. I've tried this 4 times: 1 unsuccessful, 2x it read full after filling up for the first fillup but would only take 12 gallons and the last time it read full and filled 14 gallons. After the initial refuel, goes back to filling 12 gallons and reading 3/4 full hen tank is at maximum capacity (pump slowly until a little fuel drools out).
Glad it worked for most of the ppl here though.

 

My car ran out of gas this morning on the expressway whike reading 1/4th tank of gas.

In the cold dropping off my wife to work...Not fun
Hopefully this works

 

I tried this after seeing your bump. Now my fuel gauge doesn't work AT ALL.

 

I replaced one of my sending units and told the mechanic to clean the one with the fuel pump but it only worked for one or two full ups and now its acting up again so I ordered a sending unit for the other side..

 

yea i think on courtesy nissan they are 95$ each. i just cant see dropping 200$ on it when i hear from some people its the damn cluster that could be the issue as well.

the q tip thing worked for a little while, but now mines horrible as well.

 

I'm having the same issue for like 3 years, did the cheaper sensor, didn't work. don't wannna droop 200 cuzz like u said it can be the cluster. i just count the miles and fill up

 

Had this issue a year ago same problem till the needle just read empty. Cleaned the contacts on the fuel pump nothing changed. Had my buddy come over and we switched the fuel pump from his g35 to mine. Guess what! problem solved the defective one was the fuel pump on the passenger side drivers was still good. Went to my local junk yard bought the whole sending unit fuel pump piece for like 35 a year later never had this issue. Worth the try.

 

Bumping the fuel gauge threads I used as reference:

I discovered my problem: On the float armature, there is a thin copper bracket/wire that sits behind the armature bracket and it is this copper bracket/wire that makes contact with the "piano board" that reads and sends the fuel level to the gauge. This bracket/wire has a thin copper wire that spools around the armature pivot point before threading through the armature bracket housing to where it is soldered.

My problem was two fold: 1. the copper bracket/wire was bent enough that it wasn't making full contact throughout the entire range of motion. 2. the spool of copper wiring from the bracket/wire was getting bound up on the armature mount housing and prevented the arm from moving. This somehow occurred while I was cleaning the circuit board and put it back into the tank.

So I tinkered with the copper bracket/wire by gently (I MEAN GENTLY!) bending and prying the bracket using fine tools such as picks and miniature need nose pliers until the contact point on the tip of the bracket/wire made strong contact with "piano board" throughout the entire range of motion. I then fiddled with the armature mounting point and bracket, seating, moving and reseating the armature arm mount until I could not feel anything binding up via the copper coil and there was no resistance to the armature arm moving throughout the range of motion.

I put it all back together and turned the car on to immediately see a working gas gauge. This fixed my non-working gauge immediately and fixed my P0463 code.