I posted the below post in another thread (https://g35driver.com/forums/drivetr...-06-g35-4.html) but haven't gotten any results and need some help soon....

So my 06 with 56,000 miles is at the dealer now for this issue. 3 years ago (under warranty) the other dealer in town replaced the master cylinder. This fixed the problem until this summer when it started doing it again on hot days. So I took it in and today they called back and said that they think that somehow the master cylinder replacement gave a 'false positive' that the problem was fixed. Said that they probably should have replaced the slave cylinder. And now, due to the problem not really being fixed, the clutch is worn more than it would have. They are recommending a new clutch of course. $1400. Obviously IF I do need a new clutch, it won't be them doing it.

What do you guys recommend for me? I don't know enough about the system to know if that's total BS or not. This service manager I was working with has taken great care of me in the past, and I trust him. But then again he was really just relaying the service tech's words.

Also, before I even had them check it out, I flushed the clutch fluid a month or 2 ago. So my fluid is brand new.

Thanks

 

I'm assuming, because you didn't really say, that the clutch pedal is sticking in the down position and not fully returning up / releasing?

If that's the case you really need to search, it's a common issue. Changing the clutch fluid for OEM-replacement DOT3 fluid won't help, and while it's possible that the slave cylinder is an issue and isn't a terrible idea to have it looked at, the simple solution is DOT4 fluid (higher boiling point) and a stainless steel clutch line.

If you look under the car at the factory clutch line it runs pretty closely to the exhaust and the factory heat wrapping on it isn't all that awesome, this causes the DOT3 fluid to heat up and break down which reduces the pedal travel and clutch function.

I replaced my fluid and was fine 90% of the time, on a hunch I replaced my clutch line with a stainless steel and had my slave cylinder checked and replaced and was fine. If you're clutch is already screwed then so be it, but give the DOT4 a shot and take it to a dedicated transmission shop for a second opinion.

 

Yeah, when it gets hot, it sticks halfway down.

I have searched, and I know the fluid is a common issue but that didn't fix it.

I had it at the dealer for something and that was when I had them flush/replace the clutch fluid. I assume they used whatever is the factory spec fluid (which I thought was DOT4...?)

When you have a clutch changed, is it common practice that the master/slave cylinders are also replaced?? I'd hate to end up replacing the clutch and then end up with the same problem.


I'm honestly thinking of just leaving it until next year since most of the hot days are done for the year....

 

In 03-05 DOT3 was the factory fluid, don't know if that changed in 06.

It's not common to have the master/slave cylinder changed just because you're doing the clutch. You don't need to really remove anything under the vehicle to change them out, they're accessible with everything in tact.

I'd still say find a reputable transmission specialty shop and get their opinion on it as well. Wouldn't cost much for a diagnostic fee and you get an extra set of eyes on it.

 

I had the same pedal sticking problem with my 06 6MT. For me, replacing the slave cylinder worked. There is a spring in it that rusted and broke so it was not providing the return assistance it was supposed to. The pedal would stick at the point where the pedal spring transitions from assist to return. It would only do it after driving for a little while. I replaced the slave cylinder, poured in new fluid and bled the air out of the system and it has worked fine since.

 

Had this problem with my g. All they had to do was replace the clutch hose ( if im saying that right) and change the fluid. I could of done it myself but I didn't know what the issue was. Only cost me 120 bucks which I don't think is bad. Do that first before you go into a more expensive solution. Looks like lek has the same idea and they also put a stainless steal line in so def make sure you get that. Hope this helps


Josh

 

This is a common problem with Nissan, there internal parts of the slave cylinder fail continually. I replaced two of them on my last Z. Replace the cylinder then see how your clutch was effected, chances are it wasn't damaged. And quit going to the dealership for service, you roll in they see $$ signs! Find a recommended independent Nissan shop, your wallet will thank you....Gary

 

Had the same issue. Whenever it was a hot day, the clutch pedal would stick and I would have to pull it back up with my toe.

I replaced my clutch fluid using the turkey baster method with DOT 4. Been 2 years, no problems since.

The old DOT 3 fluid would turn very dark within a week of replacing it, especially on hot days. Making the clutch pedal feel mushy and refuse to go back up. With the DOT 4, it has been able to withstand the hot temps...

 

I'm having the same issue, not just on hot days, but every day. Gonna have to try replacing the slave cylinder. Thanks for the answers

 

Well you need to replace it about 8-10 times with the turkey baster method to get all of the old fluid out, could be why it was turning dark soon. But yea I have DOT 4 in mine, no problems at all.

 

i have the same problem on hot days

 

I have the same issue...when it's sticking i can shift the gears without pressing the clutch fully. I will try the Dot 4 also.

 

I have a 03 G35 sedan. This happened to me today after about 40 miles of highway driving when I got off the exit. At first it became really hard to shift into 1st gear, but I was able to shift into 2nd (it was still hard though). After pulling into a parking lot, I noticed the clutch pedal felt really soft and was sticking and wouldn't come back up right away. Once I parked it I wasn't able to shift it into any gear, the gear box totally locked up. I've read a few threads on sticking clutch pedals but haven't seen anyone mention not being able to shift gears. Do I have a different kind of problem? I had the car towed to a transmission repair shop nearby. When I got to the repair shop, which was about an hour and a half later, the clutch feel went back to normal and shifting was smooth like before. I left it there overnight because I didn't want to risk getting stuck on the road again. I'll see what the mechanic finds tomorrow.

 

jjj23, could you get it in gear while the car was shut off? Strange how the clutch pedal got spongy and didn't return to the top. Did you try to pull it up by hand? Interested to hear the findings of your mechanic....the possibilities are endless.
Gary

 

Even when the car was shut off it I couldn't get it to shift, as if all the gates were locked up, the clutch pedal did pop back by itself but when I press it, it would stick at about the halfway point, then after a few seconds it would come back up by itself. And like I said in the first post, after 1.5 hours the clutch pedal and the shifter completely returned to normal (started the car and went through all the gears), I didn't do a test drive however. After doing some more reading on here, it seems like the best thing to start with is the stainless steel clutch line and DOT4 fluid change and see how it goes from there. I'll post tomorrow on what the repair shop finds wrong with it.