Hey guys, Just got my 2005 G35 Coupe about a month ago. Had a question about start up.

When I start the car up when the engine is cold it revs up to about 2300-2500 Rpm and then drops to about 1500, then it slowly (1-2minutes) drops to about 500 rpm once warm. Is that normal? ALSO, When it hits that initial high rev (2300-2500) there a weird noise for about 1 second, sound like if you had a loose fan, like a rattle... It goes away quickly and doesnt happen when the car is started warm. Any thoughts?

Thanks

 

... no it's not.

Sounds like a VTC sprocket, which is located behind the timing chain cover. If it's a very high pitched squeal, it's the belts that aren't tight enough.

 

Its not a Belt squeel. I'll try and get an audio clip for you guys but its more mechanical sounding.

Thanks

 

This part is normal. All engines have a cold-start idle up procedure.




Is the noise a rattle? Similar to the rattle you get when you do an oil change and start the car for the first time? How's your oil level? Any consumption issues?

 

I had it into the shop on Tuesday of this week for an oil change, it was dangerously low for some reason and knocking like crazy (a slower version of what it does on start up kind of), they added some dye to oil to see if I have sprung a leak somewhere. Going in next tuesday to see if Im buring it up somehow.

Thanks

 

Taken from GTM Motorsports:


There is a TSB to address a momentary noise after a cold start from the timing cover area,it get mistaken for a timing chain tensioner or guide ,there is a spring that keep tension on the VVT sprocket ,the spring brakes or get weekend witch will cause the noise ,these sprockets are not cheep there are about $500 give or take each. we have seen this problem mainly on the early 03-04 models .

Here is the TSB information from Nissan this was originally discovered on the maxmia/altima VQ35 engines but is also a known cause on the 350Z/G35.

 

Darkstar,

That sounds like it man, thanks for the work in looking it up! Thats awesome. What do you think the harm is in NOT getting it fixed (assuming thats what it is).

Thanks

 

I would check the idler pullies too just in case before you start spending $500+