First real performance mods
for now im sticking with under the hood until the my piggy bank refills 
So would you suggest for a nice sound getting a ztube and k&n drop in or would i be better off with the R2C air filter and a z tube? i like that heat shield that closes off with the hood, or stillen air box with that same filter. better yet lets say most cost efficient that produces the best outcome
So would you suggest for a nice sound getting a ztube and k&n drop in or would i be better off with the R2C air filter and a z tube? i like that heat shield that closes off with the hood, or stillen air box with that same filter. better yet lets say most cost efficient that produces the best outcome
The Copper Isothermal spacer is supposed to come with a TB spacer and a Aramid Gasket. I would raise hell if you didn't get those, or even return it. Here's the same kit for $229 shipped with everything included from one of our forum vendors: http://www.b2autodesigns.com/product...roducts_id=172
I would second the Z-tube/ K&N drop in option for the intake, for the price/performance you really can't beat it. next step would be HFC or test pipes, then depending on your budget an Uprev tune or cat back and uprev tune... if you can afford both do it, otherwise skip the cat back. For the price you won't get the results you would expect, its more about looks and sound.
Bro skip the intake. Get a K&N and call it a day. Once you pick up your cat-back you will not care about the intake sound, the one coming out from behind the car sounds so much better. You also are not going to gain any noticeable hp/tq, maybe 1-3. Motordyne TDX2 is the best mod I ever did, and it has the power in addition to the amazing sound.
The Copper Isothermal spacer is supposed to come with a TB spacer and a Aramid Gasket. I would raise hell if you didn't get those, or even return it. Here's the same kit for $229 shipped with everything included from one of our forum vendors: http://www.b2autodesigns.com/product...roducts_id=172
Shouldn't he do Catback->TP/HFC->Tune since the test pipes are going have him running lean? I've read about members increasing oil consumption from running lean from test pipes with no tune.
The Copper Isothermal spacer is supposed to come with a TB spacer and a Aramid Gasket. I would raise hell if you didn't get those, or even return it. Here's the same kit for $229 shipped with everything included from one of our forum vendors: http://www.b2autodesigns.com/product...roducts_id=172
Shouldn't he do Catback->TP/HFC->Tune since the test pipes are going have him running lean? I've read about members increasing oil consumption from running lean from test pipes with no tune.
this is the link to their online store http://www.nissanraceshop.com/produc...e-spacer-516cz
prob is everyone uses motordynes photo so you cant exactly see what they are actually including. hmmphh i am mad now
Last edited by jonavalos93; Dec 27, 2012 at 02:51 AM.
Basically it all depends on the OP's budget and ultimate goals. If you just want performance for the least possible $$, I would go for HFC/TP and tune (since you've already got the plenum spacer), if you've got the budget to include a cat back exhaust then obviously that would be before the tune. Unless you knew a cool guy like me who offered unlimited etunes for free for your future mods
Also just to make it perfectly clear test pipes/ HFC cannot cause oil consumption, unless its running stupid rich for a long time and it washes out the rings, but test pipes won't do anything that drastic.
Even on a stock setup an uprev reflash makes a good difference, the electronic throttle doesn't even open all the way from the factory, fixing that major factory defect alone makes a huuuuge difference. The OP from this thread had an axle-back muffler and "intake"... none of the typical go-fast mods.
https://g35driver.com/forums/tuner-d...heets-ftw.html
Look at the dyno sheet, it doesn't lie
damn so i was jewed? i was planning on doing this tomorrow morning will it be necessary to have the aramid gasket? I got it from the nissan dealer for what i though an average price so it came with a bunch of useless 350z bolts
this is the link to their online store http://www.nissanraceshop.com/produc...e-spacer-516cz
prob is everyone uses motordynes photo so you cant exactly see what they are actually including. hmmphh i am mad now
this is the link to their online store http://www.nissanraceshop.com/produc...e-spacer-516cz
prob is everyone uses motordynes photo so you cant exactly see what they are actually including. hmmphh i am mad now
It keeps the plenum significantly cooler, mine went from burning how to being able to rest my hand comfortably on it, and that was just with the gasket and no spacer. You should also have the copper TB spacer as well. All of them come with the useless 350Z parts as well.Those parts alone are worth $80. I would wait on the install and get the proper parts first, everything in that picture should be there.
No it's not necessary, but even that Aramid gasket is going to increase your hp more than an intake, so I would get it It keeps the plenum significantly cooler, mine went from burning how to being able to rest my hand comfortably on it, and that was just with the gasket and no spacer. You should also have the copper TB spacer as well. All of them come with the useless 350Z parts as well.
Those parts alone are worth $80. I would wait on the install and get the proper parts first, everything in that picture should be there.
It keeps the plenum significantly cooler, mine went from burning how to being able to rest my hand comfortably on it, and that was just with the gasket and no spacer. You should also have the copper TB spacer as well. All of them come with the useless 350Z parts as well.Those parts alone are worth $80. I would wait on the install and get the proper parts first, everything in that picture should be there.
Last edited by jonavalos93; Dec 29, 2012 at 01:14 AM.
What's up guys so after 2 days I think I get awarded for the longest install lol, broke 2 bolts went all over town finding replacemet bolts. I let it warm up for a bit then took it for a spin. It was a little rough while driving sounded like liquids were bubbling when I accelerated slightly. Then it's smoothed out, went kind of hard but began smelling something burning? Ill try it in the morning again to see if it persists. Also there was a jingling noise under the car even after the car was off, any ideas?
Nope I thought reseting the ecu was only if you screw up the throttle body and have to relearn it? My idle is normal since I never unplugged it
Reset the ecu by the pedal way or disconnect the negative terminal on the battery. You want to reset it when you add modso the car can learn to it
It was disconnected durring install, same thing?
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