Ok nissan said its not the cats. Said they took them off and drove it and still no power. I told him to check the MAF sensor and Throttle Body for me, since its a no charge diagnostic cost right now. I just bought it and I guess imma just sell it

 

LOL jesus man did you read ANYTHING that I wrote? It could be something as simple as a frayed/cut/corroded wire. Just get a free diagnostic to see if the sensor is getting power. Obviously replacing a sensor isn't going to do jack **** unless the wire going to it works.

 

Yes the mechanic showed me the voltage readings from all the sensors. My car is at the dealership, I would think they would test the wire/harness going to the sensor by now. Well I hope they would.

 

Any updates?

 

None still runs like its on 4 cylinders. Money had to get rearranged so the car will have to wait, I will take it to this specialist in houston once I have the money available.

 

Probably a good idea to do some compression, leak down, MAF, TB, tests to try to narrow it down. Also might just be clogged injectors (pour in gas treatments usually wont solve this)

 

a compression test is your best bet if you haven't yet. have you been uptodate with your maintenance? spark plugs maybe?

 

Darkstar is correct Wreckshop, if the sensor harness is bad your not gonna get shyte to work correctly. If you have not already you should download a shop manual if you have that and a volt meter you can quite possibly save yourself from having to bring your car to a specialist.

The TM calls for the harness to be inspected before the replacement of the sensor. That includes the the power, sensor outputs AND the grounds.For whatever reason, and this scares me, they want you to check the ground behind the combo meter and the ground(s) behind the center dash area. I don't have the foggiest why those two grounds would matter BUT that is the FIRST check the shop manual calls for regarding the "DTC P1078 P1084 EVT CONTROL POSITION SENSOR" codes. Personally I think the engine grounds would matter more, but what do I know?

Next is the EVT sensor for that bank, followed by the Crankshaft sensors and lastly the camshaft itself. Apparently there is a signal plate that can get dirty if there is junk floating around in your oil, which I can imagine would drive the ECU nuts with bad readings. Either it's part of the camshaft or something that is attached somehow......

 

Was the issue ever resolved? im having the same issue with the p1078 code after replacing the sensor. The SES went away for about 20 miles after the sensor was changed but popped right back on. Any suggestions?

 

I know the threads old, but since VQStone is having the same issues, ill chime in. Not sure why everyone's talking about sensors. First thing, I highly doubt its lack of fuel pressure. You're getting the fuel delivered (remember, its being wasted at an awful rate). Next, you always want to check the easiest, most common thing first. You're having problems starting the car, inadequate burning of fuel and lack of power due to inadequate burn. I would take off your coil packs and check the voltage. I would also change the spark plugs. Infiniti claims 100,000 miles, but I changed mine at 90k and couldn't believe the difference. They had not been running at peak performance for some time. I won't run them for more than 40k now. Having bad plugs or coils will also make it hard to start your car and make it gulp gas like crazy. Your cars cel #s can be very vague in meaning. Start with the cheap stuff.