IPDM & Engine Bay Harness Issue - Please Help
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 81
Likes: 29
From: Fort Wayne, IN
IPDM & Engine Bay Harness Issue - Please Help
Good evening all,
I had my car towed to the Infiniti dealership 9 days ago as it would not start (cranks, but won't turn over). I was getting a P1610 NATS Malfunction code, so I figured they might need to reprogram the key. I received a call the next day saying that it wasn't the key, and that my IPDM was corroded and that was causing the issue. I've been traveling for work quite a bit, so I had them replace it for $907.00. They had to order the IPDM, and just installed it today. I got a call this afternoon, and they are saying that was "part of the problem", but the engine bay harness needs to be replaced ($1300.00) as it has a couple bad wires at pins 48, 49, and E9.
All other functions in the car work perfectly. The only thing it will not do is turn over, and the immobilizer light is on steady when you turn the key.
If anyone has any insight, or has ran into this issue previously, some advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you!
I had my car towed to the Infiniti dealership 9 days ago as it would not start (cranks, but won't turn over). I was getting a P1610 NATS Malfunction code, so I figured they might need to reprogram the key. I received a call the next day saying that it wasn't the key, and that my IPDM was corroded and that was causing the issue. I've been traveling for work quite a bit, so I had them replace it for $907.00. They had to order the IPDM, and just installed it today. I got a call this afternoon, and they are saying that was "part of the problem", but the engine bay harness needs to be replaced ($1300.00) as it has a couple bad wires at pins 48, 49, and E9.
All other functions in the car work perfectly. The only thing it will not do is turn over, and the immobilizer light is on steady when you turn the key.
If anyone has any insight, or has ran into this issue previously, some advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you!
Sounds like there trying to rip you a new one there's a cause and a affect what's the cause and why there's normally not a bad pin and if was a bad pins then why wouldn't they have sorted this out in the first solution to fixing the problem .? I would tell them to diagnose everything and then say ok this is what it is and it's gonna cost this not try to fix it doing half *** work or guessing .. Don't fall for it take it to a real mechanic
I found this...maybe it would help. Immobilizer issues are not hard but will cause a not start. I am a Kia Tech and if the IMMO key goes bad, you have to get a new IMMO and have it reprogrammed. I can remember right not what the IMMO key communicates with but if there is no signal from the key inserted into the ignition then no start. Read below...found on a nissan forum
The key I was using, a TK40 NS34U replacement, was cut and programmed from my original. I used this key as my primary for at least 6 months without issue. That day, it apparently stopped working. After waiting about 20 minutes, I tried using the original factory key, and the car started on the third try with it. I later pulled codes P1610 and 1614. Both P1610 and P1614 indicate a NATS (anti-theft system) malfunction, yet P1610 is a resulting DTC from the "LOCK MODE" condition which is set for various NATS malfunctions or an improper key being used. It prevents the car from starting (for some period of time, even if the key issue is rectified). P1614 merely indicates an issue with the anti-theft system because the IMMU cannot receive the key ID signal.
To reset a NATS lock mode, a proper key must be cycled three times again to get the car to start, explaining why with even using the original key, it took three tries to start.
For now, I'm assuming that the key transponder in the replacement key became damaged or corrupted somehow. I have not had issues since using the original key again.
The key I was using, a TK40 NS34U replacement, was cut and programmed from my original. I used this key as my primary for at least 6 months without issue. That day, it apparently stopped working. After waiting about 20 minutes, I tried using the original factory key, and the car started on the third try with it. I later pulled codes P1610 and 1614. Both P1610 and P1614 indicate a NATS (anti-theft system) malfunction, yet P1610 is a resulting DTC from the "LOCK MODE" condition which is set for various NATS malfunctions or an improper key being used. It prevents the car from starting (for some period of time, even if the key issue is rectified). P1614 merely indicates an issue with the anti-theft system because the IMMU cannot receive the key ID signal.
To reset a NATS lock mode, a proper key must be cycled three times again to get the car to start, explaining why with even using the original key, it took three tries to start.
For now, I'm assuming that the key transponder in the replacement key became damaged or corrupted somehow. I have not had issues since using the original key again.
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