My 2003 G35 coupe 6mt has been acting up as of late. I've had the car two years this February.

Last year I noticed the car almost died when I came to a stop, it did die once, and only happens when I push the clutch in. Starting this month (January) it has started doing this again, but it has yet to die, it got close, the red battery light came on but recovered.

Currently when I start the car it idles at 1000-1100. After the car warms up it wants to idle at 100-0.

For example, I get into town to get breakfast at a gas station, I get back in my car and start it, it revs up to 1000 then drops to 100-0 instantly and the car shakes a bit, I have to rev the engine sometimes or it does die. I have attached a video showing it idling when it's warm. The car has always done this.


I have read a few posts and they ask whither or not the ac is on when it idles low, I have put both no ac, and ac on in the video.

When I purchased the car it had a piggy back mapping chip, it was causing misfiring so I replaced the spark plugs, coil packs and cleaned the maf. It still misfired and was sluggish to accelerate, so I removed the mapping chip. The car has ran perfect since then and I actually gained power without the mapping chip. I have a notepad the first owner of the car kept showing oil changes and most of the mods done to the car, although it doesn't have all of them listed. By looking at the engine I believe it has a plenum spacer, it has a k&n typhoon intake, and a lot of other mods not pertaining to the engine.

I am wondering if these two issues stem from the same problem.

 

Did u do a throttle body reset??

 

I have not. I'm not exactly sure how to go about it.

 

Do a throttle body reset and if that doesnt help maybe clean your MAF (Mass Air Flow Sensor)

 

It should be a sticky on here, search for it, its a long process.. lol

 

Had similar issue and it was my MAF. Once that was changed, ran perfect.

 

It's normal for the car to start at 1100 rpms and go down to about 650 or so once its warmed up. That first line on the tach is 500 rpms, not 100.



It's not normal for the car to stall when the clutch is pressed in.

 

Interesting, I didn't know that was 500.

Would my heat blowing cold air when I push the clutch in be tied to this at all? When I slow down and stop my heat blows cold air, but blows hot air when I start moving again.

 

@Tekwhat my 6MT car idles lowish like yours when hot i cant imagine that the clutch has anything to do with cold air blowing when stopped. mine doesnt blow as hard when stopped but when the engine starts moving it will blow harder that is just from the alternator generating more power and making everything work as it should. check your coolant level if its low it might be efecting how much flows to the heater core. just a thought not sure.

 

searching for the Throttle body reset post and cant find it... someone have a link by chance plz?

 

hello, good afternoon, I have an infiniti G35 Coupe Std 2005, I changed the engine but since I did that, the car starts normally and after about 10 minutes if I press the Clutch it turns off, the revs are unstable, and then it turns off and no longer I can turn it on because starting becomes heavy... I already changed the starter, battery, coils, spark plugs, wiring and position sensors and crank sensor and it continues the same

 

What kinds of readings is the MAF giving you?

 

make P0011, P0021, P0014, P0024 when the car is cold it starts fine, the problem is as it warms up, the faults begin... the brake becomes too soft, I would even say that it loses pressure, if I press the clutch even without setting speed, it shuts off.... after about 15 0 20 minutes ..auto shuts off and if i put it in gear again it doesn't start, the gear becomes very heavy as if unloaded...

 

You could have a cam/crank shaft issue too, my car would barely run when one went out.