Only two:

The Stillen "Split Second" box is a piggyback unit for the supercharger that is a harness splice-in setup. It's been installed for years (more than the 2.5 I've owned the car) and never an issue related that I know of.

And I installed an aftermarket DD Headunit with a PACOEM2 that's a solder-in setup. Although, again - that's been installed for 2 years without incident.

 

It's got me wondering if maybe it's a gas delivery or vacuum issue?

Because this new bogging ONLY happens when I give the car the beans ya know.

Although those wouldn't necessarily address the stumbling and missing in D while at a stop?

Ugh - what a freaking headache.

 

did you ever figure it out?

 

Nope - I, and no one else ever did.

I still drive the car daily (or bi-daily - I work for myself) and it's still pretty much exactly the same. It hasn't gotten worse, or better. It' still 100% tied to ambient temperature. I say "pretty much the same" due to having moved to a cooler climate: Since moving from FL to Asheville NC the stumbling at idle happens somewhat less often. But the bogging at WOT is the same as ever.

I've decided that it must be tied to the box tune that the Stillen SC came with (programmed into a Split-Second Box). And although the removal of the SS Box in favor of an Uprev Osiris tune has been on my mind for, well, years now - I've yet to find a single shop who seems to know what they are talking about when they quote me for the work. I simply can not tell you how many (and I wont name names here - but I've been to a few of the most well known in FL and NC thus far) places invariably quote me a price - to which I then have to ask: "Does this include the removal of the 7th Injector... orrrrr how are you guys planning to deal with coming up with my maps if it's left in there?". And every SINGLE time I get the same blank faced stare with the reply of "The Stillen has a 7th injector?!"...

ARRRRRG!

LOL But that's a different story unto it's self.

Short answer again - no - it's still like that. I still drive it - such is life.

 

sorry to hear that, I have a similar problem. No tune, not mods, but at idle in gear it misses.

started happening right after I had my mech replace the sparkplugs.

I think it is injectors as the problem went away for a while after running some Chevron techron cleaner.

but it came back.

and like you definitely happens only after the car is warmed up.

 

It's obviously some part of the ignition / fuel system.. although as I type those words I realize that's just like saying: "Well it's obviously something to do with the car" (practically) LOL

Related: The only (and I do mean ONLY) person who seemed to possess anything resembling an intimate whole picture knowledge of the G35/350z in Tampa FL (where I was previously living) got me started down the path of the Coils. Jim who owns Turbo Toys (holy CRRRRAAAAP do they have a LOT of FM Platform parts there!) suggested busting out the volt meter and pulling a full pin-out continuity and resistance check on all six. I did - found some variations that were a *touch* outside of spec on two (you have to also keep in mind ambient temperature and humidity when doing these readings so that when you test the new ones you do their readings as close to the same temp and humidity as possible for the most apples to apples comparison of the recorded readings) - nabbed a few new coils, tested them before install... and: No change on this end.

Now, I haven't messed about with the Injectors yet as it's a whole different picture removing my Supercharger to get to them than it is simply busting off the stock intake plenum. But the next time I do remove it - I'll be sure to give them a good cleaning / check up.

 

look up ScannerDaner.com (youtube too), he is a teacher at some tech school who puts out videos on various diagnostic tests using scanning tools. He has a two part video of testing a inline 4's injectors called a balance test (needing some gauge, Tee and injector pulser), that showed that one injector was not flowing as it should.

he stated that when pressurized, the pressure drop from fully pressurized to an injector firing a certain amount of cycles, should not be more than 1 psi difference . But he states that on a perfectly running car the injectors flow exactly the same rate, and doesn't like the variance.

example if the rail is pressurized to 50psi, and the #1 injector fires 10 times rapidly, and the psi drops to 40, that is a 10psi difference, the remaining 3 injectors should have a range between 9 and 11 psi....a lower number means it is flowing less and thus lean, a higher number means flowing more and thus rich.

on our cars though, that test is impossible to do as we have to remove the plenum to get to the injectors.....bummer