How did you get to 300 whp with a 5AT?
#17
right now I have a stillen short ram intake, MD 5/16 spacer, MD tdx2 exhaust, and I have the MD Art Pipes but I have not installed yet. I figure after a tune I might be around 250-260? jus trying to figure out how I will knock out that last 50 or so hp
#20
#22
this. In Na form the VQ was made almost as mighty as it could practicably be. so in reality if you want real horsepower you have to invest in forced induction, or spend a disgustingly high amount of money for NA mods that will never equal their FI counterparts, and still be less useful for daily driving.
#25
#26
Squeezing N/A whp from these cars is like trying to shed weight from a road bike...
The closer you get to the "best possible", the more $$$$$$$$ you're gonna spend. People spend thousands to shed a few hundred grams off the bike at professional levels.. Much like you're gonna do to go from 295 to 300 whp.
The closer you get to the "best possible", the more $$$$$$$$ you're gonna spend. People spend thousands to shed a few hundred grams off the bike at professional levels.. Much like you're gonna do to go from 295 to 300 whp.
#29
Neither. As the Nissan tech that comes in here now and then will tell you, the v35 without the variable exhaust makes 260/260 in a perfect world only. the 280/296 rating is a pre-2006 SAE rating hack. aka they lied..
on a **accruate** Daynapack/mustang you will see 215-225 AVG hp at the wheels for really taken care of 2003-2006 vqde 3.5l block that does NOT have the oil leak. numbers vary, but you have a TON of HP to make up to get near 300whp and your working against the 20% loss of the tranny.
At the least you will need cams, full block to tip tuned exhaust-$$ ((tuned headers, 350-z y-pipe, downpipe, cat mods, muffler stuff, o2 sensor move or delete/loop)) intake mods such as the plenum kit (which i did + a tune), new intake pipe, filter and a tune. that will get you around 280whp at *PEAK* only for the 5AT, the negatives of that are (1) it will push your TQ to the right which I consider a negative.. but to each their own. (2) your car will smell with most of the modified exhausts deleting cats or putting in high flow cats. (3) it will sound like a angry rice car.
Cost will be pretty high if you are not doing your own work for the minor gains.
I would say the stillen is the best bet, but it is also pricey , $%^&s up your hood and is loud as in annoying as $%^& at idle.
you could stroke it which would be uber %^&*ing cool.. but the kits are 6k, labor separate
there are a few turbo applications, but following the threads long enough reveals issues over time with reliability. so caveat emptor.
it is a great car. $$ to modify,
on a **accruate** Daynapack/mustang you will see 215-225 AVG hp at the wheels for really taken care of 2003-2006 vqde 3.5l block that does NOT have the oil leak. numbers vary, but you have a TON of HP to make up to get near 300whp and your working against the 20% loss of the tranny.
At the least you will need cams, full block to tip tuned exhaust-$$ ((tuned headers, 350-z y-pipe, downpipe, cat mods, muffler stuff, o2 sensor move or delete/loop)) intake mods such as the plenum kit (which i did + a tune), new intake pipe, filter and a tune. that will get you around 280whp at *PEAK* only for the 5AT, the negatives of that are (1) it will push your TQ to the right which I consider a negative.. but to each their own. (2) your car will smell with most of the modified exhausts deleting cats or putting in high flow cats. (3) it will sound like a angry rice car.
Cost will be pretty high if you are not doing your own work for the minor gains.
I would say the stillen is the best bet, but it is also pricey , $%^&s up your hood and is loud as in annoying as $%^& at idle.
you could stroke it which would be uber %^&*ing cool.. but the kits are 6k, labor separate
there are a few turbo applications, but following the threads long enough reveals issues over time with reliability. so caveat emptor.
it is a great car. $$ to modify,
Last edited by maxxcool; 10-14-2014 at 02:00 PM.
#30