So I found out the problem is that my tachometer is messed up so I need to get it fixed or replaced any suggestions guys?
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You should verify this first by hooking up an OBD-II scanner and verifying the actual RPMs that your car thinks its spinning at. If the ECU is telling you it's spinning at higher than 4K but the tach is showing 4K, then it's either the tach or some wiring issue between the tach and ECU. Just make sure that your ECU is properly reporting the revs through the OBD-II port.Originally Posted by davidson_G35
So I found out the problem is that my tachometer is messed up so I need to get it fixed or replaced any suggestions guys?
Buy a cheap ELM327 OBD-II reader and use a smartphone to check this out with a free app.
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If you can find a used one on ebay or a junk yard they usually go for 1-200 depending on the mileage. But try to find one close to your mileage. Or if you have a friend with with the same car as you you can borrow their cluster and see if a new cluster will fix the problem first.
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Did you check this out? Originally Posted by westsideblu
Will it go past 4 while driving? Does it only stop at 4 at a standstill and revving? Maybe you have a launch control lol
All joking aside many cars these days have a limiter when in park - eg.F150
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I had this same issue, my car is stock with a cold air intake and aftermarket muffler, I ran into this issue after changing all my cam/crank sensors, I took it to read the SES and I had a code for my crank, (I had a code for a cam PS before changing all of them) as well as a couple for an 02 sensor, and some ATF pressure switches, after changing the 02 sensors and making sure my MAF and Fuses were good and an ECU reset the issue seemd to be gone but then returned worse once the car got to operating temperature the next day (was fine all day, the day before)Originally Posted by davidson_G35
I have a 2006 G35 Coupe 6mt and when I rev my motor it will not pass 4k rpms does anyone know why that is. I just bought the car not to long ago and i had a g35 automatic before which did red line anyone know what the issue may be and could it be a govenor?
my last resort was installing my old crank position sensor thinking I bought a bad one and so far no check engine light and problem has not come up again after a couple days
other possible causes: the transmission fluid and possibly the ECU trying to confiscate for lack of fuel because it’s getting too much air
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my last resort was installing my old crank position sensor thinking I bought a bad one and so far no check engine light and problem has not come up again after a couple days
other possible causes: the transmission fluid and possibly the ECU trying to confiscate for lack of fuel because it’s getting too much air
Have you been able to fix this issue besides using your old sensors Originally Posted by Vq.tommy
I had this same issue, my car is stock with a cold air intake and aftermarket muffler, I ran into this issue after changing all my cam/crank sensors, I took it to read the SES and I had a code for my crank, (I had a code for a cam PS before changing all of them) as well as a couple for an 02 sensor, and some ATF pressure switches, after changing the 02 sensors and making sure my MAF and Fuses were good and an ECU reset the issue seemd to be gone but then returned worse once the car got to operating temperature the next day (was fine all day, the day before)my last resort was installing my old crank position sensor thinking I bought a bad one and so far no check engine light and problem has not come up again after a couple days
other possible causes: the transmission fluid and possibly the ECU trying to confiscate for lack of fuel because it’s getting too much air
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when in doubt oem cam and crank sensors for sure. Originally Posted by Joshua_VQ35
Have you been able to fix this issue besides using your old sensors




