G35 wont pass 4000 rpms

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Dec 2, 2014 | 01:02 AM
  #1  
I have a 2006 G35 Coupe 6mt and when I rev my motor it will not pass 4k rpms does anyone know why that is. I just bought the car not to long ago and i had a g35 automatic before which did red line anyone know what the issue may be and could it be a govenor?
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Dec 2, 2014 | 01:03 AM
  #2  
most likely you are in limp mode pull the codes report back or search the codes.
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Dec 2, 2014 | 01:19 AM
  #3  
What do i do to get out of that? its annoying as hell
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Dec 2, 2014 | 01:44 PM
  #4  
reset the ECU.
Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery and let it sit for 30-45min.
Plug it back on and start her up, should be good to go.
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Dec 2, 2014 | 05:27 PM
  #5  
So I just did that and still nothing only 4000 rpms could it be a governor
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Dec 2, 2014 | 05:30 PM
  #6  
Will it go past 4 while driving? Does it only stop at 4 at a standstill and revving? Maybe you have a launch control lol
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Dec 2, 2014 | 06:08 PM
  #7  
Could it be my maf sesnor
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Dec 2, 2014 | 07:40 PM
  #8  
So I think my tachometer may be off beca use it jumps up from 2700 rpm to 3500 like it's skipping rpms and not moving up slowly at all could it be that I have a issue with that?
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Dec 2, 2014 | 10:58 PM
  #9  
Is your car the Infiniti G35 TDI?

You're probably in limp mode. Is the Check Engine Light on? Did the previous owner install any unusual racing gadgets on the car such as a two-step or adjustable rev-limiter?
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Dec 2, 2014 | 10:59 PM
  #10  
It is but not for that it's for the o2 sensors
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Dec 2, 2014 | 11:12 PM
  #11  
Did the previous owner or yourself mod the gauge cluster? If the needle is sticking thats either a problem with the stepper or they pushed the needle back on too far and its catching on the face (i had that problem when modding mine) also maybe they set it wrong does the car sound like it's at 4k? Like when you accelerate does the motor keep going faster and the gauge gets stuck? Does it idle at 650~ when warmed up? That's what happened with mine it was getting stuck at 3500 and moving really slow and jerking. Any lights on? Ses, slip, vdc etc..?
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Dec 2, 2014 | 11:34 PM
  #12  
Sounds like you need to pull the codes. Same thing happen to me and ended up being a TB issue.
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Dec 2, 2014 | 11:56 PM
  #13  
Tb issue what's that?? And to think about it my traction control doesn't turn on or off there's no light that shows up but it idles a lil below 1000 rpms
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Dec 3, 2014 | 12:06 AM
  #14  
Tb=throttle Body
Maybe the plate could be sticking.
I forgot to reconnect my maf sensor once and my vdc started acting up try disconnecting the plug and see if anything changes.
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Dec 3, 2014 | 12:24 AM
  #15  
Quote: It is but not for that it's for the o2 sensors
THIS.

If the car thinks your upstream oxygen sensors are messed up, there's a very good chance it will keep you from revving up high because it can't properly calibrate the fuel mixture based on reliable feedback from the sensors.

What's up with your oxygen sensors? Your car will run like crap without working front oxygen sensors and will burn through a ton of gas because it's always going to run rich. You will also risk possibly burning out your catalytic converters quickly due to the car always running rich. Decent aftermarket replacement catalytic converters would cost upwards of $450-600. I'm just letting you know so you can hopefully avoid a potential future problem that was caused by not knowing the impacts of driving on bad front oxygen sensors.


If it's the rear sensors that are not working right, that won't affect your vehicle at all aside from making you fail inspection (depending on your state of residence) since the downstream sensors are simply there to make sure that the exhaust coming out of the converters meets some minimum threshold of cleanliness and isn't spewing obscene amounts of noxious emissions into the environment.
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