Shifting
#1
#3
It's not hard to drive a stick. Always in neutral at a red light or stop sign and foot off the clutch , that will add life to the clutch . Try shifting around 3000 rpms until You get a good feel for the car.
You know Your car when You start shifting by the sound of the engine.
Once You get a good feel You can start downshifting .
Never go passed redline unless You wanna blow Your engine. I wouldn't even take it close to redline
You know Your car when You start shifting by the sound of the engine.
Once You get a good feel You can start downshifting .
Never go passed redline unless You wanna blow Your engine. I wouldn't even take it close to redline
#4
Registered User
iTrader: (11)
#6
Shifting RPM's are not something you can define easily for all gears or situations. You'll get a feel for the car and how rapidly you want to accelerate in each situation and eventually learn to intuitively know when to shift up or down.
Smooth shifting is all about matching your engine revs to the speed of the transmission input shaft. You just have to get used to that as it's different in any car due to gearing being different. You will probably notice that our cars are a bit harder to shift with the air conditioner on because the revs drop quicker and the gears are very close in ratio so it's more likely to drop too far and buck between gears. Shifting at lower RPM's will generally keep your shifts smooth.
Whatever you do, treat the clutch as a "gear switching mechanism". What I mean by that is that you should only be using the clutch when you want to switch gears or go from neutral into a gear. If you use the clutch to emulate neutral or to hold your position on a hill, you're going to beat up the clutch and result in premature failure. If you're on a hill and you want to stay still, put the brakes on and put your car in neutral and let the clutch out. Even if you are in neutral, just holding the clutch down is still bad for the clutch throwout bearing.
Basically just try to minimize the amounts of time that you use your clutch and just use it between gears (including when going from neutral into a gear) and when starting from a stop.
Also... never rest your foot on the clutch pedal when you have no intention of pushing it in as the light pressure on the pedal can still cause wear on the components.
Just get out there and practice though. You don't want to get stuck in a stressful situation with no confidence in your ability to get the car moving smoothly in heavy traffic or on a hill with a car right up your a$$ behind you.
Smooth shifting is all about matching your engine revs to the speed of the transmission input shaft. You just have to get used to that as it's different in any car due to gearing being different. You will probably notice that our cars are a bit harder to shift with the air conditioner on because the revs drop quicker and the gears are very close in ratio so it's more likely to drop too far and buck between gears. Shifting at lower RPM's will generally keep your shifts smooth.
Whatever you do, treat the clutch as a "gear switching mechanism". What I mean by that is that you should only be using the clutch when you want to switch gears or go from neutral into a gear. If you use the clutch to emulate neutral or to hold your position on a hill, you're going to beat up the clutch and result in premature failure. If you're on a hill and you want to stay still, put the brakes on and put your car in neutral and let the clutch out. Even if you are in neutral, just holding the clutch down is still bad for the clutch throwout bearing.
Basically just try to minimize the amounts of time that you use your clutch and just use it between gears (including when going from neutral into a gear) and when starting from a stop.
Also... never rest your foot on the clutch pedal when you have no intention of pushing it in as the light pressure on the pedal can still cause wear on the components.
Just get out there and practice though. You don't want to get stuck in a stressful situation with no confidence in your ability to get the car moving smoothly in heavy traffic or on a hill with a car right up your a$$ behind you.
#7
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#8
Like others have said, this isn't the easiest car to learn on. Also, our clutches tend to be quite expensive. It may serve you well to go find a car for $300 and go practice beating that up and just throw it away afterward. Haha yeah, it'll cost you $300, but could save you $1200 for a new clutch in yer G.
#9
Registered User
iTrader: (11)
#10
It's not hard to drive a stick. Always in neutral at a red light or stop sign and foot off the clutch , that will add life to the clutch . Try shifting around 3000 rpms until You get a good feel for the car.
You know Your car when You start shifting by the sound of the engine.
Once You get a good feel You can start downshifting .
Never go passed redline unless You wanna blow Your engine. I wouldn't even take it close to redline
You know Your car when You start shifting by the sound of the engine.
Once You get a good feel You can start downshifting .
Never go passed redline unless You wanna blow Your engine. I wouldn't even take it close to redline
seriously i dont understand this forum sometimes.
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Ejgold55 (04-07-2015)
#11
Premier Member
iTrader: (11)
I've been driving manual cars since I was 15, and this car was a pain to master (esp the 1st to 2nd shift). I finally went for the RJM clutch pedal mod. That product has been through a few iterations, I think it's as easy as just swapping out the whole clutch pedal assembly now. Probably one of the best drive-ability mods I've done.
#13
Revving high generally puts a lot of stress on your internal engine's components, generates a lot of heat, and will wear your motor out at a lower mileage level than if you tried to keep the RPMs down to a more reasonable level. Why do you think diesel engines tend to last so long? They spin at super low RPM's, so stuff generally takes less of a beating over a said amount of miles than another vehicle that spins at 2 to 3 times the RPMs in order to produce the same vehicle speeds. This means less wear on piston rings as well as any other part that moves or spins in sync with the motor.
Last edited by partyman66; 04-07-2015 at 06:35 PM.
#14
Registered User
iTrader: (11)
#15