Brake pads rear...
Brake pads rear...
Coupe 63k 2005
Dealer said my rear pads are 3mm
Need replacing soon.
But he said the brake components are
3rd party so they have to replace all that, whatever that means. $250
Should I just go to local import auto mechanic and have him replace the rear pads with same?
Also,
If I want a nice brake front& rear set under $1k, what might I look at?
Would like red calipers.
Thank you
Pic brake
Last edited by dundermifflin99; Apr 20, 2016 at 05:44 AM. Reason: Picture
Originally Posted by partyman66
Are you using those tire pressure monitoring valve stem caps?
Those might be the most pristine condition stock rims I've seen on an older G.
Those might be the most pristine condition stock rims I've seen on an older G.
Ever had any problems with them leaking? Reviews on Amazon are pretty bad for most of the brands I saw. Which type are you using and for how long have you been using them?
If you know how to take off your wheel, you're 1 bolt away from replacing your pads and 2 bolts away from replacing your rotors.
The only thing that might annoy you is compressing the brake piston, but if you have a C-clamp you'll be okay, just do it yourself.
$250 isnt THAT bad for a brake job if it includes new parts, you'll spend about $50 on pads and $80 on rotors, then pay the guy $120 to do the work for you.
The only thing that might annoy you is compressing the brake piston, but if you have a C-clamp you'll be okay, just do it yourself.
$250 isnt THAT bad for a brake job if it includes new parts, you'll spend about $50 on pads and $80 on rotors, then pay the guy $120 to do the work for you.
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From the pics, it just looks like whomever did the pads before tossed out the OEM shims. Maybe that's what the dealer was referring to replacing? Typically other parts that get replaced besides the pads are the hardware kits (thin metal pieces in the caliper bracket at both ends of the pads) and dust boots on the slider pins.
I know it's a little off topic. I was planning to upgrade my rotors when doing the bearings too. Do I need to change out to bigger brakes if I'm planning on buying these rotors? links are below. Thanks
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....432547&jsn=354
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....432547&jsn=355
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....432547&jsn=354
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....432547&jsn=355
If you know how to take off your wheel, you're 1 bolt away from replacing your pads and 2 bolts away from replacing your rotors.
The only thing that might annoy you is compressing the brake piston, but if you have a C-clamp you'll be okay, just do it yourself.
$250 isnt THAT bad for a brake job if it includes new parts, you'll spend about $50 on pads and $80 on rotors, then pay the guy $120 to do the work for you.
The only thing that might annoy you is compressing the brake piston, but if you have a C-clamp you'll be okay, just do it yourself.
$250 isnt THAT bad for a brake job if it includes new parts, you'll spend about $50 on pads and $80 on rotors, then pay the guy $120 to do the work for you.
I have a 6 piston Wilwood front BBK with 13" rotors with only 10,000 miles on them. Im asking 1200.00 plus shipping. They are black in color though
Last edited by infinitidude; Apr 27, 2016 at 10:36 AM.
If you know how to take off your wheel, you're 1 bolt away from replacing your pads and 2 bolts away from replacing your rotors.
The only thing that might annoy you is compressing the brake piston, but if you have a C-clamp you'll be okay, just do it yourself.
$250 isnt THAT bad for a brake job if it includes new parts, you'll spend about $50 on pads and $80 on rotors, then pay the guy $120 to do the work for you.
The only thing that might annoy you is compressing the brake piston, but if you have a C-clamp you'll be okay, just do it yourself.
$250 isnt THAT bad for a brake job if it includes new parts, you'll spend about $50 on pads and $80 on rotors, then pay the guy $120 to do the work for you.
I'm all for doing things your self and not wasting money, you could even buy all the tools to do it and be under 250, or just borrow a caliper compressor from autozone for free.
First mistake, going to the dealership for a brake job! This is an example why most of us that have experience with them use the word "Stealership!" If you're not equipped to do a brake job yourself locate an Independent Brake/Alignment shop in your area. All they do is brakes and suspension work 10 hours a day and I'd replace both front and rear pads at the same time regardless of wear!
Gary
Gary
Brakes on this car are cake. Basically almost the easiest possible brake setup for quick pad changes. Disc brakes are almost always easy to do actually, except for the case of some German vehicles that use a piston setup where the piston spins back into the caliper instead of pushing straight back in and you need a tool to grab it and rotate it back in.
Usually the biggest problems with disc brake pads come from serious corrosion on the bolts or a seized caliper, but if you don't have any of those problems it literally takes less than 10 minutes for a shade-tree home mechanic per wheel to pull the old pads, clean everything up, lube the pins and reassemble (not including time it takes to jack the car up and down).
If you're doing rotors, it's still stupid easy, except in the rear where the E-brake can complicate things a tad if you need to back off the shoes a bit to free them up from grabbing and holding the rotor on.
Usually the biggest problems with disc brake pads come from serious corrosion on the bolts or a seized caliper, but if you don't have any of those problems it literally takes less than 10 minutes for a shade-tree home mechanic per wheel to pull the old pads, clean everything up, lube the pins and reassemble (not including time it takes to jack the car up and down).
If you're doing rotors, it's still stupid easy, except in the rear where the E-brake can complicate things a tad if you need to back off the shoes a bit to free them up from grabbing and holding the rotor on.
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