I am lowered on Z S-Techs and running 25/30mm spacers. I have a camber kit (F&R) on the way to deal with the ridiculous camber and was wondering how can I close the wheel gap more?

Should I run 40mm rear and 30/35mm up front for spacers?

These wheels are so skinny! By the way the rear is rolled.

Rear 30mm spacer
Rear
Rear
Front 25mm spacers

 

If your intention is to install the camber kit and bring your alignment back to OEM specs you shouldn't have a problem! If you do, easiest way to lessen the gap will be changing your spacers...Gary

 

so you don't think that the camber kit will stand the wheel up and lessen the gap any?

If not I might run 35 rear and 30 up front for spacers....lol damn that just sounds crazy but that's what it's gonna take to flush these skinny *** rims 😀

 

The camber kit at the rear pulls the lower end of the hub inwards to reduce camber and return to oem. That would cause the top to (very slightly) move closer to the fender, the movement is very slight because the upper arm stays constant length but the hub still pivots slightly. The front adjustable A arms push the top of the hub/wheel outwards to correct the added camber, this has a more noticeable effect on fender gap.

What this means is, it's best to install the camber kit and correct the alignment. Only then can you really measure how much room you have for spacers.

 

thats what I figured. I get the kit in tomorrow and hopefully will have some time this weekend and see what I can do then.

you think it would be worth having the shop that does the alignment to get as close to 0 as possible?

 

Depends on how much hard driving you do. Infiniti dialed in a decent amount of negative camber from the factory to make the driving dynamic more efficient for the owner who likes to push their cars at times. For the average Joe it's a small pain in the butt because it causes premature tire wear that they won't get the benefit of. If you like to drive hard occasionally I'd shoot more for the factory specs.

 

Ill get them as close to 0 as possible. Thanks for the advice!

 

0? No, no, you want at least -1.4 to -2.0. You gotta understand that your car picks up some positive camber while rolling. A static alignment (while the car is sitting still) is really just a guess for where your dynamic alignment (rolling) will be at 55mph. If you set your static to 0 you will be running positive camber when you're up to speed.

 

That ^^^

Also do you mean close to 0 with stock adjustment or with the camber kit? Because you won't get to 0 with stock adjustments. Mine is about an extra degree of camber all round after dropping with S-techs (for G35 coupe) but I don't do much miles so tire wear doesn't bother me.

If you mean close to 0 after installing the kit, then like mentioned NO. The purpose of the kit is to bring alignment back to OEM - because the range of the OEM alignment stuff cannot accommodate the drop, not to bring it back to 0.

Basically, unless you're using the G purposely for one thing like racing or whatever, just stick to OEM specs. I know the mk4 supras and owners sort of developed among themselves the "Lance" alignment but I don't think there is any tried and tested superior alignment specs for the G. (All round driving that is, I'm sure there are better specifications for race/drift/drag cars)

 

Great info guys thanks. So I know there have been people not happy with even the wear from factory alignment specs. Do you have any info on maybe an alignment that is a little less aggressive to save on tire wear? Or would a shop know what to do?


I use it as a DD and after about 25 miles a day I cant really afford to go through tires that fast.


.....Well I can but want to spend it on other shiot

 

I thought I don't do that many miles but I too average about 25 a day, 5 days a week + the odd trips around town. Even with my pretty soft Michelin PSS, no camber correction (about -2.5 from the drop), somewhat spirited driving and the occasional vdc off stuff I have about 6mm left on the inner half of the tire compared to maybe 7mm on the outer half - new is 8mm. Signs of uneven wear for sure, but after 5000+ miles of good driving it's not too bad especially for a 285 30 20 tire.

You'd have to find a special shop or someone you know for alterations from OEM. Most places stick to specifications and won't listen to you if you ask for a degree here or whatever. A "less aggressive" setup would be to reduce the camber but even still with OEM specs the extra wear shouldn't be too wild. Are you sure there's nothing else that needs looking at, maybe a bad bushing that is giving to much when the car is rolling?

 

the wear is even on both sides. I've driven about 2k miles since the drop and have noticable wear on the inner that is uniform on both sides. I still need to install the camber kit tomorrow and then off too the alignment shop. I was aking I as more of a preemptive thing so I know what to do after the kit was installed. I'll keep an eye open once I get the alignment for anything else.

 

The noticeable wear would be caused by a combination of the added camber and misaligned toe. Mostly the out of line toe which is eating away at the inner edge and 2k miles is a lot of miles to drive whilst misaligned. So the wear you're seeing now is excessive and will significantly reduce once you get an alignment.

 

I'm gonna try to clear this up for you as concisely as possible:

First of all regarding the alignment setup with your camber kit, you will have to take it to a specialty shop for this. Your average Firestone won't mess with these aftermarket parts.

Ok, so,as Brad stated, toe is what ruins your tires. Imagine your actual toes while wearing a pair or roller skates. If you have the skates pointing straight, that's 0 toe; that's what you want. Now pointing your toes in or out and trying to go straight would obviously ruin the wheels of the skate, cuz yer forcing them to drag along the ground.

Camber is WHERE the tire wears. So, if you have a wheel (off of the car) just sitting upright on the ground, that's 0 degrees of camber. Tilting the top of the wheel inward is negative camber, and tilting it toward the face of the wheel is positive camber. None of this actually accelerates tire wear, only scrubbing (toe) does.

So, if you want a daily driver alignment with maximum contact patch and tire life, tell the shop you want the toe as close to 0 as possible, and you want the front camber around -1.0 degree (give or take a bit) and the rear camber between -1.4 and -2.0. you'll be plenty happy with that and the car will be much more comfortable.

 

That should be a sticky. Call it "camber for dummies"

That actually helped a lot and I appreciate it! I understood what camber and toe was, but the explanation of how they effect tire wear was perfect and very informative.