WARNING! BAD PRODUCT! CUSCO Front Camber Arm
#31
Originally Posted by inTgr8r
I really like my A arms from Performance nissan.
Entire A arm is CNC'd out of solid billet.
They're not cheap but are a great piece.
You can adjust all the way to the limit of the shock tower.
Entire A arm is CNC'd out of solid billet.
They're not cheap but are a great piece.
You can adjust all the way to the limit of the shock tower.
#32
#34
Getting Rid of Cusco?
I recently took my G in for an alignment after installing Z H-tech springs last Saturday. I don't think the springs haven't settled completely but the results showed that my front camber was -1.4 (L) and -1.3 (R). I'm looking at these to get even more negative as the springs settle more. So, next time I get an alignment (2-3 weeks) I plan on installing a camber kit. If anyone's order the Cusco and is willing to part with it at a reasonable price then PM me.
Thx!
eddie
Thx!
eddie
#35
Originally Posted by neffster
Thank you SOOO MUCH!!! Here's your cookie in advance.
It took a while to find some milk to go with the cookie
![Wink](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
FWIW.......
On a sedan, lowered on Eibachs, measured drop about 1.25"
I was able to adjust front camber to:
-0.9 left & -0.8 right with no clearance issues at the shock tower
2nd attempt & current setting, got it to:
-0.7 left & -0.6 right, with a slight rub (A-arm on tower)
This was easily solved with a hardwood wedge to expand the metal slightly.
#36
Fellas, I got a 2nd opinion and went to a "Racing suspension specialist" near my work.
Clark's house of suspension, Lake Forest CA.
Anyway...
I went to him because I was going to put my stock control arms back in, but before doing so, he fiddled with the settings and he was able to get me to -1.1 on both sides for the front.
I feel bad for bad mouthing the product, but I guess it was my fault for going to incompetent "tire franchises".
So I believe -1.1 is within range of factory specs so I am a happy camper now.
Does anyone have an extra cookie?
Clark's house of suspension, Lake Forest CA.
Anyway...
I went to him because I was going to put my stock control arms back in, but before doing so, he fiddled with the settings and he was able to get me to -1.1 on both sides for the front.
I feel bad for bad mouthing the product, but I guess it was my fault for going to incompetent "tire franchises".
So I believe -1.1 is within range of factory specs so I am a happy camper now.
Does anyone have an extra cookie?
#37
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The most important thing that was said in this thread was that the adjustability range of the Cusco arms and others greatly depend on how much of a drop the person has on their car. Obviously, if the person is gonna SLAM their car with dumpy lowboyz springs then the adjustability range is going to be a lot less than what you can do if a person has a more mild drop like with the Eibachs. The second most important point is if you do not know what you are doing with the adjustments take it to a reputable suspension tech, preferably one with racing experience. Your local Midas or Firestone is most likely not going to do a competent job outside of normal alignments.
#38
Originally Posted by Dizz
Fellas, I got a 2nd opinion and went to a "Racing suspension specialist" near my work.
Clark's house of suspension, Lake Forest CA.
Anyway...
I went to him because I was going to put my stock control arms back in, but before doing so, he fiddled with the settings and he was able to get me to -1.1 on both sides for the front.
I feel bad for bad mouthing the product, but I guess it was my fault for going to incompetent "tire franchises".
So I believe -1.1 is within range of factory specs so I am a happy camper now.
Does anyone have an extra cookie?
Clark's house of suspension, Lake Forest CA.
Anyway...
I went to him because I was going to put my stock control arms back in, but before doing so, he fiddled with the settings and he was able to get me to -1.1 on both sides for the front.
I feel bad for bad mouthing the product, but I guess it was my fault for going to incompetent "tire franchises".
So I believe -1.1 is within range of factory specs so I am a happy camper now.
Does anyone have an extra cookie?
So, what was the total drop and initial alignment vs the final alignment with the Cusco arms?
Example: Did you go from -2.2 to -1.1 (with a 1.25" drop?) If so, I may still be interested in this product since I have a .75" drop and only need to gain about 1 degree positive camber. Make sense?
#39
#40
Originally Posted by nismoGcoupe
Thanks for letting us know, I just canceled my order for the cusco arms. Does anyone know if kinetix plans on changing the ball joint on their arms so they don’t make as much noise as they do?
After replacing them and greasing the hell out of them the noise is gone. Just make sure you make some kind of cover of the open top of ball joints. The dealership used part of a rubber glove to cover them. Now everthing is good in the hood.
#41
Originally Posted by jruss9819
After replacing them and greasing the hell out of them the noise is gone. Just make sure you make some kind of cover of the open top of ball joints. The dealership used part of a rubber glove to cover them. Now everthing is good in the hood.
#42
neffster - 1.1 is WELL within the factory specs though. Max camber for a stock height car on stock wheels is -1.25. You guys have to remember that camber has far less to do with tire wear than toe does...and toe, as we know, is adjustable from the factory. On any car, regardless of what it is, a nominal amount of additional negative camber (around .5 degrees additional) is always a good thing..turn in response helps, as does cornering ability, but not at the expense of tire wear (again assuming toe is adjusted within spec).
As an example (and I have shared this with many of you guys over IM and the phone as well as people who stopped into the shop), my own Z is lowered around 2 inches with my coilovers. After the install, we had the car on our local alignmen rack, and although everything was significantly more negative than stock (2.1 degrees up front and around 2.9 degrees out back), I chose to leave it,as I loved how the car behaved as a result. These coilovers were installed around April 04. At that time I already had my wheels and tires (245/40/18 front, 275/40/18 rear, front wheels are 18x8.5 +30 front, 18x95 +20 rear). I have since put an additional 20k miles on my car since the coilovers went in (car now has 33k total), and all told, I got 32k miles out of my T1S's without ever aligning the car (had RSR springs first, coilovers after). This is more than I have ever gotten out of any Z series tire on any car I have ever owned before, so I was nothing but pleased.
So, moral of the story, is that a bit more negative camber, both front and rear, is more beneficial than detrimental. For those who, like me, really lowered their cars significantly, these arms can get you back to more of an acceptable front camber range without having to drop tons of cash.
adam
As an example (and I have shared this with many of you guys over IM and the phone as well as people who stopped into the shop), my own Z is lowered around 2 inches with my coilovers. After the install, we had the car on our local alignmen rack, and although everything was significantly more negative than stock (2.1 degrees up front and around 2.9 degrees out back), I chose to leave it,as I loved how the car behaved as a result. These coilovers were installed around April 04. At that time I already had my wheels and tires (245/40/18 front, 275/40/18 rear, front wheels are 18x8.5 +30 front, 18x95 +20 rear). I have since put an additional 20k miles on my car since the coilovers went in (car now has 33k total), and all told, I got 32k miles out of my T1S's without ever aligning the car (had RSR springs first, coilovers after). This is more than I have ever gotten out of any Z series tire on any car I have ever owned before, so I was nothing but pleased.
So, moral of the story, is that a bit more negative camber, both front and rear, is more beneficial than detrimental. For those who, like me, really lowered their cars significantly, these arms can get you back to more of an acceptable front camber range without having to drop tons of cash.
adam
#43
![Question](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/icons/icon5.gif)
so adam, do you have the cusco a-arms? i read in your post over and over, but you didn't mention whether you had the cusco a-arms or not. i could live with min spec of -1.25 in the front of these a-arms could get me there (i have tein basics and lowered approx 1.5in front), but -1.1 would be even better!
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