I had a tranny cooler line leak some fluid from the tranny and i caught it in time. flushed it and refilled and now its downshifting on its own back to 1 and sometimes it wont shift to 2....Any pointers?

 

Have you tried removing the battery terminal to reset everything? When I had a similar issue (wouldn't go into 5th) that did it for me

 

How do i do that? my batter looks a bit corroded by weird stuff and just now my car shakes in driver seat,steering wheel and break pedal only when stopping completely and the car acts fine on acceleration...I had a camshaft sensor issue and fixed when the mechanic said just clean the oil somehow and it cleared it. I still have weird starts here and there sometimes not all the time....

 

I don't even know where to start here. On your question that's easy. Pull both battery terminals, clean them and the battery posts with a metal brush then put them back on with some dielectric grease (so says the wise and all-powerful cleric670 lol) to help prevent corrosion.

I've never heard that someone could "just clean the oil". You either use your oil or you replace it. Are you sure you didn't misunderstand the mechanic? Did the code go away on it's own or was it cleared by a scanner of some sort? The camshaft position sensor can fail and not always throw a code. They symptoms your car is showing make me think that one (you have 2) of the CPS is failing because those are all things that happen when it does. You'll be able to tell which one it is if the car will throw a code, but with these older vehicles if one is going out you should really replace both at the same time. Only use OEM sensors, it's more expensive but our cars have a history of not playing nice with aftermarket sensors.

GL finding/fixing the issues and keep us posted with updates.

 

NOT dielectric grease, dielectric literally means "electrically insulating" meaning it does NOT conduct electricity. It will impede the flow of electrons across the conductor surface and is designed to be applied to the surface of a connection only after the parts have been mated together. An example would be the "red battery spray" you can buy at the parts house, you apply it after the battery terminals are bolted on and it provides surface oxidation protection.

What I recommend is an "anti-oxidation" grease like ILSCO DE-OX it is electrically conductive and is meant to be applied directly to the mating surfaces to prevent corrosion from happening at the contact point of the connection. It won't protect against surface corrosion for the rest of the exposed metal but automotive power connections are designed for this sort of use.

 

Brian if you vehicles "shudders" when braking then you likely have a warped brake rotor. You previous comment is hard to understand if it's shaking when braking or if it's when stationary.

 

I was just looking into this. You gotta apply logic to dielectric grease. The dielectric grease is an insulator from water, air, dust, corrosion, else.

But - the electrical connectors push the grease out of the way when clamping together. I would put it on the outside only of battery terminals though. That’s what all the dealers do.

 

Cleric I hear ya, but Urban expressed what I should have added to my post. For some reason I thought you had advised the dielectric grease somewhere here.

I use deg on all my car's batteries and have never had an issue fyi.

 

I use both at work but in different applications, there's a noticable increase in lug temperatures when we IR scan during commissioning if someone accidentally uses the DEG on contact surfaces Even at 50# torque it doesn't squeeze it all back out (everything is 1/2-13 fasteners and 50# torque). It's DEFINITELY better than using nothing at all in a vehicle application but it's not electrically conductive.

 

For indoor/industrial it’s not the right choice. But for outdoor stuff and automotive you’d be silly to break fingers taking electrical connectors apart because they are so dry. The grease does increase the connector temp, for whatever reason.

 

The grease increases temp under load because it adds slight electrical resistance which = heat, it's not a LOT in an industrial application, basically lugs are shooting 120-130 F if you use the proper de-ox or 150-160 if you accidently use dielectric. Our high limit to pass for commissioning is 180 so... we just leave it if we find it. Big wire, parallel runs, 3500 amps during load bank testing.

 

Hey guys so it's not the battery, I have a leak! I recently did my oil change so it's got oil but I think my oil pan and my upper and lower gaskets are not good, that could happen when triptronic doesn't work and the car vibrates when warm! I found out when I reached underneath my car to look at the oil pan! I already changed my valve covers so I know it's not that.

 

Any pointers that my engine will be fine when I get it replaced..?

 

At this point you should get somebody who knows what they're doing to get your car in the air and actually figure out where the leak is coming from.... As long as you keep the fluids topped up you should be fine after it gets replaced. Leaks don't cause vibrations though, unless your fluid gets low and parts have started grenading but you'd know if that happened...

We could probably be more helpful if your questions were worded more clearly and more specific.

 

Now I got the leak fixed, my mechanic said my throttle body was dirty and cleaned it, I also changed my spark plugs because it somehow burnt/oil in it, I just replaced my valve covers! So now it has a rough idle but not when the ac is on! I also put a D.C. Sports intake on too! Pointers!?