Car Starts Intermittently
Car Starts Intermittently
My car wouldn't start last week and I had to have it towed home. When I turned the key in the ignition, all of the electronics worked. The battery was replaced around 4 months ago and there is no corrosion around the terminals. Also, the starter was replaced nearly 8 months ago. So, when I started it up, I didn't hear the clicking noise from the starter solenoid. I began searching how to replace the starter solenoid/starter. Today, without replacing anything, the car started. I drove it around the block and back home and shut off the engine. I figured I'd just got lucky so, I tried to start it up again. It started fine over 5 times and is still starting up. Do you think that maybe somewhere there's a bad connection? Is there a starter fuse I should be aware of? Thank you
A fuse will either work, or it won't. There is no progressive failing of a fuse.
I would have the battery tested again, if they aren't disconnecting the lugs from the battery then they aren't doing the correct test. The battery needs to be electrically separated from the vehicle and then "load bank tested", basically they use the battery to run a heater element and a fan while they measure voltage drop. It's a fairly large machine that sits on a cart and they wheel this machine out to your vehicle typically.
There are 2 points of contact on the negative side of the battery that need to be brushed clean and reassembled with electrical anti-oxidation grease, the battery lug itself and the 2-hole lug that attaches to the chassis near the battery.
There are 4 points of contact on the positive side of the battery that need to be brushed clean and reassembled with electrical anti-oxidation grease, the battery lug itself, the 2 contact points on the fusible link, and the primary connection on the starter.
Just because the battery was replaced 4 months ago doesn't mean it's a good battery, it needs to be load bank tested.
I would have the battery tested again, if they aren't disconnecting the lugs from the battery then they aren't doing the correct test. The battery needs to be electrically separated from the vehicle and then "load bank tested", basically they use the battery to run a heater element and a fan while they measure voltage drop. It's a fairly large machine that sits on a cart and they wheel this machine out to your vehicle typically.
There are 2 points of contact on the negative side of the battery that need to be brushed clean and reassembled with electrical anti-oxidation grease, the battery lug itself and the 2-hole lug that attaches to the chassis near the battery.
There are 4 points of contact on the positive side of the battery that need to be brushed clean and reassembled with electrical anti-oxidation grease, the battery lug itself, the 2 contact points on the fusible link, and the primary connection on the starter.
Just because the battery was replaced 4 months ago doesn't mean it's a good battery, it needs to be load bank tested.
There's a photo I edited to show the 3 points of contact right at the battery that need cleaned, scroll down to post #5.
https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-sed...you-think.html
https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-sed...you-think.html
Cleric670 thank you so much! You brought up some really good points. I'm going to have the battery tested today and also clean those points of contact. I'll check the fuse as well. Thanks for the link to the photo as well!
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