G35 bolt on to keep up with 370z
A stock 370Z makes about 290 WHP which is basically a rev-up with MREV2 + spacer, test pipes/HFC, cat-back, tune on a perfect day.
The problem is the VQ37VHR makes a lot more useable power because it's torque map is almost a flat line from 3k up.
There's also the much wider contact patch for the 370Z but frankly it's a bit disingenuous to argue because the car costs a LOT more than the G and if the difference in cost was invested into the G then IT would likely be the superior performer.
The problem is the VQ37VHR makes a lot more useable power because it's torque map is almost a flat line from 3k up.
There's also the much wider contact patch for the 370Z but frankly it's a bit disingenuous to argue because the car costs a LOT more than the G and if the difference in cost was invested into the G then IT would likely be the superior performer.
The Z's are better balanced and could be considered an actual sports car, unlike the g's. A basic supercharger build isn't much more expensive than doing a full bolt-on build. When considering cost-to-power ratio, the SC route is always better.
370Z's not only have more power and a wider RPM range than a G35, but they also weigh a significant amount less than a g35 (somewhere around 230-300 pounds less depending on year and options). If you could come across some lighter wheels, you'd reduce your rotational mass by a bit, which makes for more noticeable gains than any other sort of weight reduction to your vehicle.
You could remove the rear seats if you're serious about it. I think I remember reading that the rear seats weigh like 150 pounds total, and while you're in there ditch your spare tire and jack (at least temporarily) and don't race the car unless you are down to around 1/3 of a tank of fuel left or less and you'll save about 90 pounds in fuel weight plus another 10 or so if you drain your washer fluid reservoir. Probably the cheapest raw acceleration mod you could do would be to go with a lower gear ratio in your differential... but expect to lose some fuel economy while you're at it as well as gain wear and tear on the motor and tranny.
You could remove the rear seats if you're serious about it. I think I remember reading that the rear seats weigh like 150 pounds total, and while you're in there ditch your spare tire and jack (at least temporarily) and don't race the car unless you are down to around 1/3 of a tank of fuel left or less and you'll save about 90 pounds in fuel weight plus another 10 or so if you drain your washer fluid reservoir. Probably the cheapest raw acceleration mod you could do would be to go with a lower gear ratio in your differential... but expect to lose some fuel economy while you're at it as well as gain wear and tear on the motor and tranny.
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Last edited by Blue Dream; Feb 26, 2018 at 06:13 PM. Reason: Discussions of street racing and/or unsafe driving are not allowed on the forum
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The difference between a 14.5 sec and 14sec car doesn't really seem like much until the upper gears when one starts to pull away more.
Comparing two vehicles of unknown origin and condition without using any scientific method will usually lead to really shitty comparison results
Comparing two vehicles of unknown origin and condition without using any scientific method will usually lead to really shitty comparison results
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