Sensor or The Fuel Pump??
#1
G35 Won’t Crank/Start (Fixed!)
I’m driving and the car just cuts off in traffic.
Using a Craftsman OBD Reader, it says a connection can’t be established. Please turn the ignition to the ON position. But the key is turned to the ON position.
VCD OFF, SLIP & etc are all lit on the dash.
Thermostat gauge isn’t working.
Radiator fans come on when key is in the ON position.
Fuel Pump doesn’t prime when key is in ON position.
I changed the crank shaft sensor with one from Oriellys. Didn’t work.
If if anyone has any insight, please let me know. Thanks.
Using a Craftsman OBD Reader, it says a connection can’t be established. Please turn the ignition to the ON position. But the key is turned to the ON position.
VCD OFF, SLIP & etc are all lit on the dash.
Thermostat gauge isn’t working.
Radiator fans come on when key is in the ON position.
Fuel Pump doesn’t prime when key is in ON position.
I changed the crank shaft sensor with one from Oriellys. Didn’t work.
If if anyone has any insight, please let me know. Thanks.
Last edited by AnonG35; 06-30-2018 at 10:08 PM.
#2
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#3
#4
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#5
Couple months back I had similar symptoms(lights on dash, temp gauge dead, fans on immediately, and tow truck dude told me he didn't hear the fuel pump come on). It happen within a couple minutes of parking, running inside, and coming back out and wouldn't start. Couldn't connect to ecu with a reader I use regularly but was able to read abs,tcm,srs. Replaced ignition fuse and blew another one. Cleaned all the grounds and haven't had problems since
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AnonG35 (06-30-2018)
#6
Couple months back I had similar symptoms(lights on dash, temp gauge dead, fans on immediately, and tow truck dude told me he didn't hear the fuel pump come on). It happen within a couple minutes of parking, running inside, and coming back out and wouldn't start. Couldn't connect to ecu with a reader I use regularly but was able to read abs,tcm,srs. Replaced ignition fuse and blew another one. Cleaned all the grounds and haven't had problems since
#7
Maybe someone else can chime in on which fuse it is but it's in the IPDM box behind the battery. Had my car towed to my mechanic because I didn't have the time to spend on it being busy with work. There's about 4 or 5 grounds and he was surprised because they really weren't too dirty. He mentioned the one under the coolant reservoir being the worst but still surprised him.
Are you able to start your car at all now?
Are you able to start your car at all now?
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#8
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It's hard to interpret from the post but I was under the impression that the engine would crank just fine it just wouldn't run. Pretty hazy on what the actual problem is so idk. Still wouldn't explain the random stalling in traffic though, that's usually a crank sensor and since he replaced it with an O'reilly's one I'm not surprised it's still having problems.
#9
Maybe someone else can chime in on which fuse it is but it's in the IPDM box behind the battery. Had my car towed to my mechanic because I didn't have the time to spend on it being busy with work. There's about 4 or 5 grounds and he was surprised because they really weren't too dirty. He mentioned the one under the coolant reservoir being the worst but still surprised him.
Are you able to start your car at all now?
Are you able to start your car at all now?
#10
It's hard to interpret from the post but I was under the impression that the engine would crank just fine it just wouldn't run. Pretty hazy on what the actual problem is so idk. Still wouldn't explain the random stalling in traffic though, that's usually a crank sensor and since he replaced it with an O'reilly's one I'm not surprised it's still having problems.
#12
The car hasn't started since it cut off in traffic. The car is currently near the location where it cut off.
#13
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#14
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If you are 100% sure the fuel pump is not turning on for 1 second when you switch the key to the ON position then test the fuel pump relay located in the IPDM.
Key ON - If the ECU can see a signal from the CRANK position sensor then the ECU sends signal to IPDM to close the fuel pump relay for 1 second.
Key START - If the ECU can see a signal from the CRANK position sensor then the ECU sends a signal to the IPDM to close the fuel pump relay, ECU also sends signal to the ignition start relay to crank the motor, ECU monitors for data being transmitted back from the CAM position sensors, it uses this data to fire the spark plugs and open injectors at the correct timing.
If there is no signal from the CAM position sensors then you will receive no injector pulses and no spark. If there is no signal from the CRANK position sensor then you will receive no fuel injector signal, no spark, and NO POWER TO CLOSE THE FUEL PUMP RELAY.
You can test the fuel pump relay for proper operation easily by bench testing it, you can also unplug the fuel pump harness and check for voltage on the brown/yellow stripe wire at the fuel pump.
My rule of thumb for a quick test of the fuel pump is just squeeze the rubber fuel hose in the engine bay between the damper and the feed line, you can feel it sort of "vibrate" if there's fuel pressure.
Key ON - If the ECU can see a signal from the CRANK position sensor then the ECU sends signal to IPDM to close the fuel pump relay for 1 second.
Key START - If the ECU can see a signal from the CRANK position sensor then the ECU sends a signal to the IPDM to close the fuel pump relay, ECU also sends signal to the ignition start relay to crank the motor, ECU monitors for data being transmitted back from the CAM position sensors, it uses this data to fire the spark plugs and open injectors at the correct timing.
If there is no signal from the CAM position sensors then you will receive no injector pulses and no spark. If there is no signal from the CRANK position sensor then you will receive no fuel injector signal, no spark, and NO POWER TO CLOSE THE FUEL PUMP RELAY.
You can test the fuel pump relay for proper operation easily by bench testing it, you can also unplug the fuel pump harness and check for voltage on the brown/yellow stripe wire at the fuel pump.
My rule of thumb for a quick test of the fuel pump is just squeeze the rubber fuel hose in the engine bay between the damper and the feed line, you can feel it sort of "vibrate" if there's fuel pressure.
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AnonG35 (06-30-2018)
#15
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Also, you can test the thermostat gauge by doing a combination meter check, hold down the odometer button, turn ignition switch to ON, when the odometer shows 000000.0 push the reset button 3 times. You are now in diagnostic mode, you can press the reset button to make ALL the gauges operate. Turn ignition OFF to get out of diagnostic mode.
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AnonG35 (06-30-2018)