Don't go to Maaco with a car you plan to keep.

You are looking at around $2k to repaint a G properly.

 

I've been having a similar dilemma as every body panel on my car either needs paintwork or bodywork.

What I may eventually do is apply Raail Airwrap 2k Gloss using a borrowed compressor and harbor freight HLVP gun. It's similar to plasti-dip but with better self-levelling and a gloss hard topcoat. You can also get some pretty depth/color shifting effects using pearls and flakes although I haven't looked into this too much.
Here's what the coating looks like: and how well it holds up after the hard topcoat:

Close enough to paintwork for me, especially since the materials cost for the G is less than $400. It's not permanent, but should last longer than plastidip which is advertised as 3+ years.



On your car I would sand back the failing clear coat, spray on rattle can clear in the failed areas to prevent further failure under the liquid wrap, and then give this process a shot. I'd love to hear others' experiences with this kind of thing as well as I'm planning on doing this sometime in October. If it happens I'll post a DIY.

 

Better to just paint it, I'm actually toying with the idea of painting my own car in a few weeks. Just finally gathered all the materials. Now to just work up the nerve to paint it lol

 

It's the sanding which takes all the time with the paint job, the actual process seems similar. It seems like less work to just re-dip the car every 5 years compared to sanding every inch of the car to prep for paint. For me, the dip removal will give me the chance to see how my rust repairs are holding up after a couple years.

 

that plastic dip looking paint doesnt look that bad actually

but im pretty sure the orange peel would be bad





it will actually take you longer to mask up the car than painting


if your painting a regular basic stock color..

ill paint a car for $150 if its all masked up ready to go in the spray booth just give me the materials

 

I Remember seeing your thread about you painting your car. Was it difficult? Any tips?

 

If you're using any kind of self-leveling compound on a car I strongly recommend you buy a vibrating motor between 50-75 lbs force and bolt it to the frame and run it for like 15-30 seconds after application. It causes the leveling compound to instantly flatten and gives a really good finish, anything more than a 75# of vibration causes wierd "ripples" to happen in places so smaller is better, a 25# is a little small but can still work.

If you don't have access to a vibrator motor but have access to a smaller concrete stinger you can use it if you make a clamp to secure it to the frame.

 

Harbor freight used to sell a small one that was perfect to automotive use, not sure if they carry them anymore.

Edit: another option that works surprisingly well is to crank up the bass on a powerful system and use that to vibrate the chassis. Use a frequency demo tape loop.

 

God damn Cleric. Is there anything cars you don't know how to do???

 

X2

 

Well now I dont before maybe a little
All depends on what you really want to do it
Leave it straight as a ruler
Just all even covered and shiny

And how much money you want to spend on material
Theres $60 clear coats -finish one
And theres $300 clear coats spi(bradm??) Used it on hes too
And basecoats hace different prices

 

What did you do to sand the car and how long did it take?

 

600 grit wet sandpaper




When you start sanding all the texture will come out make sure you sand it all flat like this

 

Why did you remove the door handle on the front door but not on the back door? Inquiring minds want to know.