G35 acceleation issue
#1
01-02-2019, 06:06 PM
G35 acceleation issue
So my car starts and drive perfectly fine till I get to 4000 rpm. it’s like the car has a rolling 2 step or limp mode at 4000 but as soon as it happens I let off the gas and shift and the car is perfectly fine. any help will be greatly appreciated it happened a while back but it went away now it’s back again...I’ve been wanting to clean my Throttle body but my service engine light doesn’t work so Idk if a idle relearn will work after I clean it or make it worse
like in the video
-all credit goes to rightful owner of the video via YouTube
like in the video
-all credit goes to rightful owner of the video via YouTube
#2
01-02-2019, 07:43 PM
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: By the sea, Tx
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G35 sedan w/ too much money in mods
First of all you need to scan the computer and see if you have any active or pending codes. A cheap Bluetooth scanner is $20 or less and a basic app like Torque is free. If you don't have access to this take your car to your local auto parts store and they will scan them for free at a lot of places. This is the best way to get an immediate idea of what's wrong with your car. Without this info you're just guessing what might be wrong and that's bad in so many ways.
Plus when you ask for help make sure you include in your post/s any relevant information that refers to your specific car: mileage, coupe or sedan, 6MT or 5AT, recent work done to the car etc. The more info you can post on the forum can go a long way to getting the help you seek.
Plus when you ask for help make sure you include in your post/s any relevant information that refers to your specific car: mileage, coupe or sedan, 6MT or 5AT, recent work done to the car etc. The more info you can post on the forum can go a long way to getting the help you seek.
#3
01-02-2019, 09:30 PM
Registered User
Damn, that's my car (used to be).
I never got round to figuring out the problem, but I never dug into it much to be fair.
I suspected the intake tube having holes, throttle pedal sensor, throttle position sensor or possibly one of the cam/crank sensors.
I just learnt to give it a millisecond to settle before mashing the gas.
Anyway, definitely check the air intake for leaks as I think that may have been my issue - the ribbed connecting tubes like to crack.
I never got round to figuring out the problem, but I never dug into it much to be fair.
I suspected the intake tube having holes, throttle pedal sensor, throttle position sensor or possibly one of the cam/crank sensors.
I just learnt to give it a millisecond to settle before mashing the gas.
Anyway, definitely check the air intake for leaks as I think that may have been my issue - the ribbed connecting tubes like to crack.
#4
01-02-2019, 10:09 PM
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Washington State
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Coupe 6MT Premium RAS
In my experience then only time you ever see a non-functional check engine light is because it was intentionally BROKEN by someone, usually someone trying to sell the car.
The OBD2 scan is a requirement at this point.
Don't be afraid to pay Nissan an hour labor for a diagnostic. $150 to troubleshoot is worth the cost of throwing a couple random parts at the car that dont fix the problem.
The OBD2 scan is a requirement at this point.
Don't be afraid to pay Nissan an hour labor for a diagnostic. $150 to troubleshoot is worth the cost of throwing a couple random parts at the car that dont fix the problem.
#5
01-03-2019, 10:59 AM
First of all you need to scan the computer and see if you have any active or pending codes. A cheap Bluetooth scanner is $20 or less and a basic app like Torque is free. If you don't have access to this take your car to your local auto parts store and they will scan them for free at a lot of places. This is the best way to get an immediate idea of what's wrong with your car. Without this info you're just guessing what might be wrong and that's bad in so many ways.
Plus when you ask for help make sure you include in your post/s any relevant information that refers to your specific car: mileage, coupe or sedan, 6MT or 5AT, recent work done to the car etc. The more info you can post on the forum can go a long way to getting the help you seek.
Plus when you ask for help make sure you include in your post/s any relevant information that refers to your specific car: mileage, coupe or sedan, 6MT or 5AT, recent work done to the car etc. The more info you can post on the forum can go a long way to getting the help you seek.
Last edited by Obeyxjason; 01-03-2019 at 11:10 AM.
#6
01-03-2019, 11:47 AM
#7
01-03-2019, 11:53 AM
In my experience then only time you ever see a non-functional check engine light is because it was intentionally BROKEN by someone, usually someone trying to sell the car.
The OBD2 scan is a requirement at this point.
Don't be afraid to pay Nissan an hour labor for a diagnostic. $150 to troubleshoot is worth the cost of throwing a couple random parts at the car that dont fix the problem.
The OBD2 scan is a requirement at this point.
Don't be afraid to pay Nissan an hour labor for a diagnostic. $150 to troubleshoot is worth the cost of throwing a couple random parts at the car that dont fix the problem.
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#8
01-06-2019, 11:55 AM
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Washington State
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What you need is the actual diagnostic trouble code, it looks like P####, for example P1211 is a traction control system error. The scanner you're using is only giving a generic NAME for the error, it says IPR CIRCUIT FAILURE but the G35 was never offered with a diesel motor so you don't have an injection pump...
I strongly recommend the app Torque Pro if you're using an android device.
The dealership you are talking about is a Nissan dealership right? If you're dealing with an Infiniti dealership expect about a +40% markup for the exact same service.
I strongly recommend the app Torque Pro if you're using an android device.
The dealership you are talking about is a Nissan dealership right? If you're dealing with an Infiniti dealership expect about a +40% markup for the exact same service.
#10
01-07-2019, 03:14 PM
Join Date: May 2017
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Ohh jeez they were right in the middle of the screen lol ...
Well there's your problem, does the engine rpm move around when you are at a standstill and turn the wheel? If so then probably just replace the power steering pressure switch since those are known to fail. The air fuel might be a bad O2 sensor but you need to watch real time data to see if it's cycling properly.
Well there's your problem, does the engine rpm move around when you are at a standstill and turn the wheel? If so then probably just replace the power steering pressure switch since those are known to fail. The air fuel might be a bad O2 sensor but you need to watch real time data to see if it's cycling properly.
#11
01-28-2019, 10:46 PM
Im back from the dead lol and I don’t have the original steering wheel I have an NRG quick release so I never paid that attention, I switched out my MAF sensor for oem(it had shitty autozone/advanced auto MAF)and the car fires up good it gives me chills before it would drop to 0 rpm and stall or struggle and go back up. New problem would be after 3000 rpm the car would climb in rpm but slow
#12
01-28-2019, 11:54 PM
Ohh jeez they were right in the middle of the screen lol ...
Well there's your problem, does the engine rpm move around when you are at a standstill and turn the wheel? If so then probably just replace the power steering pressure switch since those are known to fail. The air fuel might be a bad O2 sensor but you need to watch real time data to see if it's cycling properly.
Well there's your problem, does the engine rpm move around when you are at a standstill and turn the wheel? If so then probably just replace the power steering pressure switch since those are known to fail. The air fuel might be a bad O2 sensor but you need to watch real time data to see if it's cycling properly.
#13
01-30-2019, 12:00 AM
I'm having a similar issue with my 03 G35 that hesitates around 2000 rpm, which has 171k miles on it. I went to auto zone last week to see if i had any more trouble codes, especially since i recently just installed megan y pipe and test pipes. I found that i had the trouble code P0304 which is cylinder 4 misfire. It could possibly be that the spark plugs, coil pack, or fuel injector are going bad and need to be replaced. As of now i haven't gotten around to it yet, but i will keep you updated during the process asap. Hope this helps!
Last edited by EricJefferson; 01-30-2019 at 12:17 AM.
#14
01-31-2019, 07:44 AM
I'm having a similar issue with my 03 G35 that hesitates around 2000 rpm, which has 171k miles on it. I went to auto zone last week to see if i had any more trouble codes, especially since i recently just installed megan y pipe and test pipes. I found that i had the trouble code P0304 which is cylinder 4 misfire. It could possibly be that the spark plugs, coil pack, or fuel injector are going bad and need to be replaced. As of now i haven't gotten around to it yet, but i will keep you updated during the process asap. Hope this helps!
#15
01-31-2019, 07:51 AM
UPDATE: Changed my maf sensor the car doesn’t hesitate/jerk now. THANK GOD, but something else is also wrong now lol when I get on it wide open throttle after 4-5K rpm it like cut/lose power and it climbs slowly. I currently only have one code p1564 which is because I have a quick release NRG not oem wheel. Any help at all would be greatly appreciative 