Car lurching...studder while driving
#31
#32
Would anyone with the FSM be able to tell me the correct torque specs for the intake manifold and fuel rail bolts? I have the specs for the plenum from the MotorDyne guide. Used to have a PDF of the FSM but can’t locate it and doesn’t appear the NicoClub link is still active. Thanks in advance if anyone is able.
#33
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Washington State
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Nicoclub FSM links are back up again, they were in a legal battle with NNA last summer and had to take them all down but apparently it's all been resolved. Look under section EM, Engine Mechanical.
https://nicoclub.com/archives/infini...e-manuals.html
https://nicoclub.com/archives/infini...e-manuals.html
#34
Nicoclub FSM links are back up again, they were in a legal battle with NNA last summer and had to take them all down but apparently it's all been resolved. Look under section EM, Engine Mechanical.
https://nicoclub.com/archives/infini...e-manuals.html
https://nicoclub.com/archives/infini...e-manuals.html
#35
Reassembly went pretty smooth this evening - the expected rough idle but otherwise the test drive went well. My pending code P0327 is now gone, however, I now have a new pending code...P00300 Random Cylinder Misfire. My initial thoughts after some searching are:
-I damaged a fuel injector while removing/installing the fuel rail assembly
-I incorrectly plugged in sensor clips to some of the coil packs
Any suggestions on what may be causing the P00300?
-I damaged a fuel injector while removing/installing the fuel rail assembly
-I incorrectly plugged in sensor clips to some of the coil packs
Any suggestions on what may be causing the P00300?
#36
Hello G Community!
I'm experiencing something strange with my 2003 6MT coupe. The past 2 mornings on the way to work I've experienced a brief lurch/studder while driving. It's like 3 to 4 quick consecutive jerky lunges, then it stops. It feels as if the engine is sputtering or the car is slipping out of gear. Both times it's happened in almost the exact same spot/distance from home, cruising in 4th gear going approx. 40-45 mph on a flat, straight stretch of road. I wouldn't say the car is cold because it has happened about 5 mins from home and the car had reached operating temp. Today I felt an additional slight lurch while in cruise control on the highway in 6th gear going approx. 70 mph.
Any ideas what would cause this? Is this something engine related, or transmission? Am I experiencing a misfire? Belts slipping?
I'm experiencing something strange with my 2003 6MT coupe. The past 2 mornings on the way to work I've experienced a brief lurch/studder while driving. It's like 3 to 4 quick consecutive jerky lunges, then it stops. It feels as if the engine is sputtering or the car is slipping out of gear. Both times it's happened in almost the exact same spot/distance from home, cruising in 4th gear going approx. 40-45 mph on a flat, straight stretch of road. I wouldn't say the car is cold because it has happened about 5 mins from home and the car had reached operating temp. Today I felt an additional slight lurch while in cruise control on the highway in 6th gear going approx. 70 mph.
Any ideas what would cause this? Is this something engine related, or transmission? Am I experiencing a misfire? Belts slipping?
#37
95% sure it’s the coil pack. Same thing happened to my car. I changed all the spar plugs. Gave a new p003 something code. Checked the spark /clicking sound of each coil. Sure enough there was no spark coming from my coil. Changed it with an autozone brand. It worked. But threw up another code...so I cleaned my MAF sensor with spray...and boom...smooth riding.
#38
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Random misfire doesnt need to be on multiple cylinders, a better word that Nissan should have used is "intermittent misfire".
Many times you can just do a visual inspection on them and find one with blistering on the epoxy resin encapsulation (shiny part on top) or scorching on the spark plug well boot, or corrosion on the little contact spring inside the spark plug well boot.
Sometimes they just completely die with an open circuit and you get a specific cylinder code (same with fouled plug, no discharge on coil pack) and it throws a code for that cylinder.
P0300 means it fires SOME of the time and not regular enough time determine which cylinder.
Many times you can just do a visual inspection on them and find one with blistering on the epoxy resin encapsulation (shiny part on top) or scorching on the spark plug well boot, or corrosion on the little contact spring inside the spark plug well boot.
Sometimes they just completely die with an open circuit and you get a specific cylinder code (same with fouled plug, no discharge on coil pack) and it throws a code for that cylinder.
P0300 means it fires SOME of the time and not regular enough time determine which cylinder.
#40
Random misfire doesnt need to be on multiple cylinders, a better word that Nissan should have used is "intermittent misfire".
Many times you can just do a visual inspection on them and find one with blistering on the epoxy resin encapsulation (shiny part on top) or scorching on the spark plug well boot, or corrosion on the little contact spring inside the spark plug well boot.
Sometimes they just completely die with an open circuit and you get a specific cylinder code (same with fouled plug, no discharge on coil pack) and it throws a code for that cylinder.
P0300 means it fires SOME of the time and not regular enough time determine which cylinder.
Many times you can just do a visual inspection on them and find one with blistering on the epoxy resin encapsulation (shiny part on top) or scorching on the spark plug well boot, or corrosion on the little contact spring inside the spark plug well boot.
Sometimes they just completely die with an open circuit and you get a specific cylinder code (same with fouled plug, no discharge on coil pack) and it throws a code for that cylinder.
P0300 means it fires SOME of the time and not regular enough time determine which cylinder.
I could be wrong about the process of elimination but that’s what was explained to me at the time and just so happened to work. Try that and see how it goes.
#41
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Other than the arcing and potential to shock the **** out of yourself literally and potentially (unlikely but potentially) damage the coil pack that method will definitely work. Used it for MANY years back when distributors were the primary source or power.
Looks like you found the smoking gun.
Looks like you found the smoking gun.
#42
Just wanted to follow up and provide what is hopefully closure. After discovering the pending P0300 code I used the scanner to clear it. Almost a week later and I've had no issues and the pending code has not reappeared. Big THANK YOU to all of you who helped me along the way. As always the forum comes through for me when I need it.
In conclusion for anyone who may stumble across this in the future, my issue was a pending code P0327 - knock sensor wire harness. Symptoms I was experiencing were sudden jerking, engine cutting out while at speed under minimal load - sometimes stalling. The community consensus is that it's almost always the harness - not the knock sensor itself, however, as a result of my G's production date I was required to purchase a new style sensor to be compatible with the new style harness. Total cost for the harness, knock sensor, and intake manifold gaskets (upper & lower) from Z1 was $168 (plus shipping).
The job itself wasn't that difficult, just very time consuming. One of the more challenging parts is under the car trying to unplug the bottom end of the old harness and install the new one. Normal size hands/arms aren't meant to fit in there. You CAN do this yourself. Take your time, stay organized, label things, and properly torque bolts to spec.
In conclusion for anyone who may stumble across this in the future, my issue was a pending code P0327 - knock sensor wire harness. Symptoms I was experiencing were sudden jerking, engine cutting out while at speed under minimal load - sometimes stalling. The community consensus is that it's almost always the harness - not the knock sensor itself, however, as a result of my G's production date I was required to purchase a new style sensor to be compatible with the new style harness. Total cost for the harness, knock sensor, and intake manifold gaskets (upper & lower) from Z1 was $168 (plus shipping).
The job itself wasn't that difficult, just very time consuming. One of the more challenging parts is under the car trying to unplug the bottom end of the old harness and install the new one. Normal size hands/arms aren't meant to fit in there. You CAN do this yourself. Take your time, stay organized, label things, and properly torque bolts to spec.
#44
Annnddd I'm back. Experiencing the original issue again every morning this week. Car hasn't stalled while driving but it's the same random lurching/jerking as before. Happening approximately the same distance from home on the same stretch of road. The frustrating thing is that I have no codes. Even had my OBDII scanner on it this morning in anticipation - set it to live on board monitoring with DTC trigger but it never triggered anything. I'm at a loss. Ready to throw in the towel and move on from the G...
#45