Jesus Christ. I did the spark plugs to 21 ft/lb instead of 18.

 

Would anyone with the FSM be able to tell me the correct torque specs for the intake manifold and fuel rail bolts? I have the specs for the plenum from the MotorDyne guide. Used to have a PDF of the FSM but can’t locate it and doesn’t appear the NicoClub link is still active. Thanks in advance if anyone is able.

 

Nicoclub FSM links are back up again, they were in a legal battle with NNA last summer and had to take them all down but apparently it's all been resolved. Look under section EM, Engine Mechanical.

https://nicoclub.com/archives/infini...e-manuals.html

 

Yep - you’re right! Thank you very much

 

Reassembly went pretty smooth this evening - the expected rough idle but otherwise the test drive went well. My pending code P0327 is now gone, however, I now have a new pending code...P00300 Random Cylinder Misfire. My initial thoughts after some searching are:
-I damaged a fuel injector while removing/installing the fuel rail assembly
-I incorrectly plugged in sensor clips to some of the coil packs
Any suggestions on what may be causing the P00300?

 

95% sure it’s the coil pack. Same thing happened to my car. I changed all the spar plugs. Gave a new p003 something code. Checked the spark /clicking sound of each coil. Sure enough there was no spark coming from my coil. Changed it with an autozone brand. It worked. But threw up another code...so I cleaned my MAF sensor with spray...and boom...smooth riding.

 

Forgive my ignorance if this is a dumb question, but how does one check the spark of each coil pack? And assuming it’s a bad coil pack, wouldn’t that trigger a pending code for a misfire in that respective cylinder...rather than the random misfire code?

 

Random misfire doesnt need to be on multiple cylinders, a better word that Nissan should have used is "intermittent misfire".

Many times you can just do a visual inspection on them and find one with blistering on the epoxy resin encapsulation (shiny part on top) or scorching on the spark plug well boot, or corrosion on the little contact spring inside the spark plug well boot.

Sometimes they just completely die with an open circuit and you get a specific cylinder code (same with fouled plug, no discharge on coil pack) and it throws a code for that cylinder.

P0300 means it fires SOME of the time and not regular enough time determine which cylinder.

 

If you can tell it's misfiring and you're getting p0300 try pulling coil pack plugs on each cylinder and seeing if it changes

 

well stated. 👍🏻 So I left them all unbolted after installing the spark plugs. I then slowly pulled each one out and U could literally see spark/no spark between the coil pack and the cylinder wall. All showed some spark and idled roughly when I slowly took it out. The bad One didn’t show electrical spark and there was no significant change in idle when I pulled it out as opposed to the others (meaning it was already bad).

I could be wrong about the process of elimination but that’s what was explained to me at the time and just so happened to work. Try that and see how it goes.

 

Other than the arcing and potential to shock the **** out of yourself literally and potentially (unlikely but potentially) damage the coil pack that method will definitely work. Used it for MANY years back when distributors were the primary source or power.

Looks like you found the smoking gun.

 

Just wanted to follow up and provide what is hopefully closure. After discovering the pending P0300 code I used the scanner to clear it. Almost a week later and I've had no issues and the pending code has not reappeared. Big THANK YOU to all of you who helped me along the way. As always the forum comes through for me when I need it.

In conclusion for anyone who may stumble across this in the future, my issue was a pending code P0327 - knock sensor wire harness. Symptoms I was experiencing were sudden jerking, engine cutting out while at speed under minimal load - sometimes stalling. The community consensus is that it's almost always the harness - not the knock sensor itself, however, as a result of my G's production date I was required to purchase a new style sensor to be compatible with the new style harness. Total cost for the harness, knock sensor, and intake manifold gaskets (upper & lower) from Z1 was $168 (plus shipping).

The job itself wasn't that difficult, just very time consuming. One of the more challenging parts is under the car trying to unplug the bottom end of the old harness and install the new one. Normal size hands/arms aren't meant to fit in there. You CAN do this yourself. Take your time, stay organized, label things, and properly torque bolts to spec.

 

Thanks for replying back. You will help many members and guests alike!

 

Annnddd I'm back. Experiencing the original issue again every morning this week. Car hasn't stalled while driving but it's the same random lurching/jerking as before. Happening approximately the same distance from home on the same stretch of road. The frustrating thing is that I have no codes. Even had my OBDII scanner on it this morning in anticipation - set it to live on board monitoring with DTC trigger but it never triggered anything. I'm at a loss. Ready to throw in the towel and move on from the G...

 

Have you logged fuel trims and 02 sensor date while it is happening? Might give a clue... To clarify again this happens when you're on throttle and the engine is stuttering?