I have not, and to be honest I have no clue how to even go about doing that. Is that something relatively simple to do with an OBDII scanner?

Correct. This occurs while casually driving, usually at a cruising speed. For example today it happened when I was about 5 minutes from the house going approx. 35-40mph in 3rd gear.

The strangest part to me is that 9 out of 10 times it is occurring along the same stretch of road. It’s like someone has a kill switch and they’re f’n with me.

 

You'd need a scanner or obdii phone app capable of logging those values, they're the end - all for troubleshooting engine issues IF you know how to interpret them

It really sounds to me like it's just cruise control/your foot not knowing how to deal with all the driveline lash from blown diff bushing, engine mounts, etc etc...

Your symptoms sound exactly like mine before I went through and replaced drivetrain mounts, down to the "only happens on specific incline of road at specific speeds"

The shifter jumps around while this is happening too, correct?

What are the condition of your diff bushing and age of engine /trans mounts?

 

At this point I think it's time to pay for a 1 hour diagnostic at Nissan/Infiniti, tell them exactly how to reproduce the problem.

 

Cleric looks like you may be our winner! Update since my last follow up: I wasn't having the issue surface so I decided to postpone a trip to the Nissan dealership. This week the issue came back and worsened. I now started experiencing stall outs at a stop as well as difficulty cranking. Today was very bad and lucky I made it home from work - SES and SLIP lights are illuminated. I'm not getting back on the road until this is resolved and I'm an idiot for being stubborn. Anyways, I put the scanner on it and I now have a code = P0345 camshaft position sensor (bank 2). Used the search function and see that this is a relatively common issue, cheap, and easy to fix. Looks like this may have been the issue the whole time as Cleric suspected originally. I'm on Z1 looking for the part...this appears to be the one, can anyone confirm?

https://www.z1motorsports.com/crank-...er-p-5297.html

 

You can also use the Hitachi brand sensor since they are the OEM supplier for the revision A sensor. The one you linked is the newer revision D sensor which will likely last a lot longer but the rev A sensor is still good for 100k miles and costs significantly less if you buy the actual Hitachi instead of the OEM.

EDIT: I just realized that Z1 is only wanting $75 for the new rev D sensor, that's a REALLY good price, it's usually like $200+

And to confirm, yes bank 2 is the driver side and that sensor will have an angled plug, the passenger side (bank1) will have a straight plug.

The reason revision D will likely last longer than revision A is because there is a plastic welded seam around the entire sensor and over the many years of expansion/contraction it causes a small fracture on the weld which allows oil from the heads to penetrate into the winding of the sensor. The newest revision has that metal cap over the end of the sensor sealing it completely.

Glad you finally found the smoking gun!

 

Well the edit function is being wierd, Hitachi sensors usually only run like $40 apiece.

 

Thank you! Ordered a revision D from Z1 - should have it by Tuesday. I'll follow up after the install and ECU reset. Fingers crossed.

 

Nice find. Good to know they found the solution.

 

Fingers crossed this is my last follow up! I removed the bad camshaft position sensor from bank 2 on Tuesday. Pretty simple job, much much much easier than the knock sensor replacement. I utilized the lengthy DIY sticky thread on this job and it was very helpful. Time wasn't of concern so I attacked this from both the passenger and driver's side. Used a 10mm ratcheting wrench to remove the single bolt - went in with the left hand from the passenger side by feel. Removing the bracket and small hose on the firewall side of the plenum gave me plenty of room. Did the rest from the driver's side after removing intake, throttle body, and large hose. The most difficult part by far was the strange sensor clip - I struggled mightily even after reading most of that 20+ page DIY thread. Eventually got it off with the help of a YouTube video. New revision d OEM sensor arrived Wednesday - installed it and put everything back together in less than 30 min. Car started right up, VDC and SLIP lights were off. Cleared the SES light code and took her for a spin without any hiccups. Feels great to have that resolved and rewarding to have done it all myself. Thanks again for everyone who helped out along the way! Cheers.