G35 Coupe V35 2003 - 07 Discussion about the 1st Generation V35 G35 Coupe

No tachometer No Codes No start, and not a clue

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Old 03-17-2019, 04:42 PM
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No tachometer No Codes No start, and not a clue

Got my G35 coupe, 2004.
Rainy weekend, drove 10 min to home, stopped for 5 minutes and got back to my car, didnít start, just cranked.
Key off and out. Tried again, car started.
Vcd/Slip light On
Oil pressure light. (On for 10 sec and then out, never came back on)
tachometer OFF and at 0Rpm all time.
Drove it back home, maybe 3 blocks.
Car ran just fine, except no rpm gauge.

checked fuses, all of them fine.
Unplugging battery nothing changed just cranking still.
Unplugged Maf sensor and car ran! Just no rpm gauge and car was idling like ****.

So. Iím pointing at the crankshaft position sensor.
Cam shaft sensors.
I should probably take apart the Maf and clean it?
Not any other clues really. No water damaging fuses or boxís etc.
Many help is appreciated donít want to just shotgun parts at it. Thank you
 
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Old 03-17-2019, 04:45 PM
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When you have no start and no tach it's almost always a crank sensor, make sure to use ONLY an OEM or Hitachi sensor.

I have no clue why it started with the MAF unplugged, that's really odd.

I would start with the crank sensor, make sure to inspect the harness and wiring for any damage or contamination.
 
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Old 03-17-2019, 04:47 PM
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Also make sure your NATS/IVIS security light isn't solid red when cranking, that would indicate the BCM doesn't recognize the key in the ignition and the ECM won't fire spark/fuel.
 
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Old 03-19-2019, 02:14 PM
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Getting progress

Alright, changed the crankshaft position sensor. To, no avail.
Car took 3 tries to get it to turn over. And was running again!
Tach gauge was running
slip/vdc lights were not on any more
rad fan wasnít running
check engine light FINALLY came on.
It spat out a p1124 code
(throttle control motor relay)

car was idling fine, just a check engine light now.

Turned off off car and started it again maybe 20 min later, back to the original no start just crank, all lights on and rad fans blowing away.

Got both camshaft sensors today, going to try slapping those in, since I have them anyways.
Now the p1124 code is bringing me 3 options.
The control motor relay died out
bad wiring.
open short.
Before I throw a new motor at it, how should I diagnose this?
 
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Old 03-19-2019, 05:42 PM
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Inspect the harness and wiring for damage or corrosion. If they look good then you probably need the throttle motor replaced but there are troubleshooting steps in the FSM you can follow to verify the proper voltage and continuity of the conductors back to the ECM.

Section EC, Engine Controls. Find the diagnostic trouble code in the table of contents and it will direct you to the proper page number.

https://nicoclub.com/archives/infiniti-g35-g37-factory-service-manuals.html
 
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Old 03-19-2019, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
Inspect the harness and wiring for damage or corrosion. If they look good then you probably need the throttle motor replaced but there are troubleshooting steps in the FSM you can follow to verify the proper voltage and continuity of the conductors back to the ECM.

Section EC, Engine Controls. Find the diagnostic trouble code in the table of contents and it will direct you to the proper page number.

https://nicoclub.com/archives/infiniti-g35-g37-factory-service-manuals.html

found the Ipdm and checked the relay to make sure it was working. It is working.
Also noticed at one of the bottom plugs, green death. Could this be the ipdm intermittently dying? As sometimes I can the car the run just fine. Sometimes itíll run with no tach still.
I just had the thing running perfectly fine. Like nothing happened. Try again after a hour and itís back to how it was.
Slip/vcd light on. And no rpm plus rad fans going nuts.
Came off the phone with a friend of mine (Nissan dealer tech)
mans heís saying itís probably going to be the ipdm
 
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Old 03-19-2019, 11:07 PM
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So this is where we are at.
After changing the Cam and crank sensors. I’m going to go down with this p1124 code.
Which it will only “sometimes” actually give me a code or even a SES light.

So. P1124 is the code for Throttle control Motor Relay.
More specifically A Circuit Short.

So so as the picture shows (their is one plug with corrosion) it’s Not the relay for the throttle.
I did pull out the relay, bench tested it. And heard it click over.
- Does this make the Relay as a “known good” part?
Or should I replace.

Second that corrosion (I need to check if the corrosion’s gone into the Ipdm side)
could my IPDM be done? How can I check to verify.
And how effective do you think cleaning, applying die-electric grease and drying will be?

Third. The throttle body itself.
Now, I did have the car running for a bit and got to drive it up and down the road.
Didnt step on it, but car was not in a limp mode. Rpm could climb no problem and rev out to at least 4K rpm

i called my cousin (previous G owner) who also owns a auto shop in Mississauga
he said you can’t really bench test the throttle body.
And from my findings (it not being in limp mode and being able to rev it out)
i think the throttle body is okay?

If if I could get some advice on how to go about.
I really do not have the extra funds to keep shotgunning parts, escpecially a IPDM
 
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Old 03-24-2019, 06:49 PM
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Thing is the throttle motor also includes the throttle position sensor. I suspect that code is generic for either of the circuits shorting out. There are instructions in the FSM under that diagnostic trouble code for how to unplug the harness on the throttle motor, then unplug the harness on the ECM, use a digital multimeter to verify a continuous circuit (nothing wrong with the wire).

If the circuit is good and you have that code then the ECM is reading that SOMETHING is causing a short circuit and that leaves just the components inside the throttle motor.
 
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Old 03-24-2019, 06:53 PM
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I would try to look around at local pick-n-pull lots to see if you can find a cheap replacement throttle motor.

As for the IPDM, yes you could definitely also have something wrong with it but the throttle circuit doesn't go through the IPDM so it's not causing that code. I would remove the IPDM, remove ALL the relays and fuses from it, thoroughly inspect/clean, leave in a box of rice overnight to dry up any dampness. Put everything back in, reinstall, and make damned sure the cover is on properly because that's what usually causes that type of corrosion.

If find anything that's severely corroded inside then clean it as best you can, sandpaper sticks work good and so do mini precision files, apply a tiny bit of dielectric only to the component you plug in (fuse/relay/etc).
 
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