Last Thursday I had Tanabe df210 springs installed on my car along with Z1's adjustable front upper arms, rear traction and camber arms. What sucks is most shops in my area don't have the capability to align my car given that it is so low (anyone knows any shops in the Tampa Bay area, please PM me). I had to settle for a Tire Kingdom a good 30 minutes away from where I live. Anyways the Tech said that he couldn't get the rear toe into spec in addition to getting the rear camber into spec. He also couldn't adjust the front camber without charging me more to take off the front wheels to adjust the front upper arms, so I plan on doing that myself tomorrow just to get the camber down. Does he just not know how to align my car or is this a problem with running both the adjustable camber and traction arms. I also installed the Z1 eccentric bolts for the camber arms. As of right now, my camber sits at FR:-3.0 FL:-2.5 RR:-2.9 and RL:-2.3. How long can I realistically go without seeing noticeable uneven tire wear?

 

My guess is he was making adjustment to the "traction arm" which is actually the RADIUS ROD and got things so out of kilter that he couldn't make proper rear camber/toe adjustments. However I do have a question, those TOE BOLTS you installed on the inside of the spring perch did require some Dremel tool work to install yes? If you didn't do that then there won't be enough room for adjustment and they usually end up broken when a tech prys on them.

I recommend you call around a few different tire shops, repair shops, etc and find out who in you area does custom alignment on lowered sports cars, someone has a pit with slide bars. If they only have a traditional drive-on alignment rack then you're talking to the wrong place.

 

Also, camber isn't the tire killer, TOE is what destroys tires, what was the toe set to?

 

Also, that much drop is sort of at the high end of what that camber kit can adjust for so you may end up with a little more camber in the rear than what OEM spec allows for but not by much.

Double check the radius rod bolt center-to-center and make sure that guy wasn't screwing with it.

 

Not 100% sure on any dremel, paid a guy to install it all for me because of my busy schedule. Gonna ask him bout that. And I don’t have the alignment sheets with me at work but I believe the toe is zeroed out in the front and at 0.10 each in the rear

 

Probably 0.08 total toe in the front (There was a TSB from Nissan to set toe-in at the maximum value to prevent tire feathering) and 0.10 in the rear but definitely double check since those numbers REALLY matter.

 

Is there a thread about this TSB by any chance?

 

Toe is .05 both sides up front and .2 both sides in the rear. Also I’m an idiot, I got the eccentric bolt elimination kit for the camber arms lol

 

Oh you DO need the eccentric elimination kit for the camber arms, the the spring perch eccentric bolt however needs to have a toe-bolt kit installed on it because that's where total toe adjustment is made.

The front is fine at 0.05 toe on EACH side for a total toe of 0.010.

Rear toe is out of spec and needs to be lowered but without the SPC Toe Bolt kit which allows an extra +/- 1 degree of adjustment then probably can't get anymore out of the OEM bolt if that's what's still installed. You can look under the rear of the car and see the difference between the two bolts, the OEM one has the eccentric washer fused as part of the bolt head. The SPC toe bolt is shiny silver and the washer is separate from the bolt head. If you're unsure if you have them or not take a nice picture of the existing bolts and post them here.

 

I’m gonna order the eccentric toe bolts when I get home and just try not to drive to much till I can put them on and find a proper alignment shop

 

Firstly I would check to make sure you don't already have them installed. It's easy enough to just look under the car from the rear and see if the bolts are sort of brown colored (oem ones) or if they're shiny bright silver.

 

Yeah I checked and they’re the OEM ones