..... This is why I said "just replace everything all at once"

 

I went to my "trust" mechanic who actually diagnosis everything before. He ordered everything new with excuse that i did order wrong parts. He replaced, ball joint/lower forward control arm/sway bar link and still have same noise. So there is only left to change strut mount and rearward lower control arm but the fact is his diagnose was wrong...

 

The "rear lower control arm" or COMPRESSON ROD has a non-serviceable ball joint in it that can definitely be making a clucking noise, as can the struts. Personally I'd just do them both because they're probably worn out.

Unfortunately this is something that is more prevalent and noticeable on a sports car suspension. When something is starting to fail it typically has a much larger impact than a traditional macpherson strut suspension.

When you get to the point where you're going to do rear components I strongly recommend just buying a rear camber kit like the Z1 Motorsports kit. Even if you don't need the adjustability from those turnbuckle-style components the benefit of the polyurethane bushings you get with them is substantial and it only costs a slight bit more than buying replacement OEM components with rubber bushings.

Fortunately for you the rear uses SHOCKS instead of struts so they are cheaper to install and only take about 15 minutes per side.

 

I probably didn't explain right; front lower control arm has frontward and backward or however you call them. So he said that one on a right side on a picture is bad too.

 

That would be the TRANSVERSE link. This picture more accurately describes how the entire suspension is assembled.

 

Thank you for explanations. I didn't use right names for those parts. I got changed transverse link what my mechanic call lower control arm but another one he mentioned is bad is actually compression rod. I don't wanna change another part what actually doesn't need be changed. The noise is coming from strut mount or compression rod. There is nothing left, maybe shock but it looks good.

 

I had to share this with you guys;
Went to Firestone, they are like serious mechanic shop. They said that sway bar link make that noise, one what was already replaced. Don't believe in that 🤣🤣🤣
Their price to change it 160+ tax. Big LoL.

 

Nobody will be able to find a bad compression rod ball joint without pulling the arm first, there simply aren't any symptoms unless at very particular points of the suspension travel with certain loadings

 

Update;
Changed sway bar link one more time, new one was actually lose so i got the another one for free. Compression rod bushing looks worn but when we lifted car you couldn't move that in anyway. I had compression rod ready for replacing but mechanic said that he is not sure, can be shock/arm. Shock is not leaking, strut mount doesnt move, car is not jumping.
I read the old topic back from 2012 on this forum when guys discuss about front noise. There were few guys changed almost everything and still has problem. Any advice; i wouldnt like to change all susspension parts. Already did, ball joint, transverse link, sway bar link and same noise is still there....

 

Sell the car

 

Can of aerosol spray lube is your friend, go through each component one at a time, spray it with lube, write down which component it was, go for a drive, can you reproduce the sound.

If YES go back to shop, spray another component, rinse/repeat.

If NO you found where the noise is originating from.

Exactly what conditions is the vehicle making hte sound? Is it still the "clunking sound" going slow over a bumpy road? Have you gotten a second person to stand next to the vehicle to pinpoint the location of the sound? Are you SURE it's suspension related and not exhaust rattling around? If you stand on the side of the vehicle, open the door, push against the door jamb near the roof and aggressively ROCK the vehicle back and forth, can you reproduce the sound?

 

I gave up after i changed those components, because i burned money and didnt solve problem. Yesterday i went to another mechanic because i am planing trip in a month around 3k miles so wanna. I heard 3rd opinion and it was completely different. Well we found a noise in tie rod end while we move it under car. ALso while we move steering wheel left-right there where noise. So this mechanic said rack and pinion has to be replaced...
As you know thats probably another 600-700$.... I noticed that reservoir with oil for power steering is missing some oil, also rack and pinion seems like little bit wet so that could be problem....
Opinion?


Thanks,

 

It's probably just an inner tie rod, which to a DIYer is $100 and 2 hours of easy work to refresh the whole assembly (inner, outer, boots) for another 15 yrs.

... Or you might need to just tighten up your steering rack tensioner screw a little...

.... But unless you DIY you'll have to keep forking over $$$ and trusting mechanics... Don't know what to tell ya.

 

Hope it's not too late for OP but speedkar99 on YT is in the process of completely taking apart a first gen G35. He already has a video on the suspension removal.

I know I'll get some flak for this but I wouldn't get overly concerned for simple noises from a multi link suspension unless they are blatantly obvious unless you want to go down a potentially money burning endeavor trying to track it down. Video even shows a blatantly bad ball joint while driving. This is especially true if you are not the original owner and cannot verify for certain if car was crashed or even had a wheel hit a curb at speed.

 

Noise = loose suspension = messed up alignment = potential for excessive tire wear and dangerous handling

Unless it's a sway bar end link, then ignore away..