It definitely seems that my car like to take money from my pocket. Well it's a 3rd problem i m starting topic about here;
Went to mechanic to inspect that noise (wasnt sure is it ball joint/stabilizer link), so he said it's a ball joint and lower control arm. I was under the car so he showed me that bushings are bad. I didnt' like estimate parts+labor, control arm+ball joint. So what replacement parts you guys prefer instead of OEM?

Still trying to not sell the G but how everything starts i don't like it. Mileage is now around 110.000, got it with 103k.

Thanks!

 

The car is around 15 years old, so of course the bushings and ball joints are probably on their way out. You could look into a bushing set and either install them yourself or have a machine shop do it. Any mechanic is going to quote you the price to replace the arms that the bushings attach to as well as the labor. The balljoints can be purchased at an auto parts store.

 

How about parts from ebay?

 

As long as they are quality parts. Don't buy cheap knock-offs that will probably break in a few years.

 

The cheapest thing you can find is rarely quality, mevotech supreme ball joints are inexpensive and have held up well on my car.

Whiteline front end bushings you'll never have a bushing issue again and the car will handle noticeably sharper. Plus you can reuse the control arms. While you're in there replace compression rods and Whiteline bushings if they look anything less than recently replaced, or they're likely to start clunking or giving caster issues under load

 

Well i have that clunking noise when i drive slow over bumpy road. I was wrong actually that part i call lower control arm is actually transverse link assembly, so bushing on that parts is going bad. And he talked something about ball joint in a steering knucle so i guess the one is wrong but he mention whole assembly to change, don't know why. https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/wLIAA...9f/s-l1600.jpg
Parts number 2 and 11.

 

Because the amount of labor spent taking everything apart you might as well replace everything to save money in the long run. Next year another part will fail, year after that another part will fail. Each time you're paying 6-8 hours of labor so just replace it ALL in one shot.

Sport car suspensions wear out and are expensive to replace.

G35 = Luxury Sport Sedan/Coupe.

 

At first thank you for replay on my every single topic i had. I was under the car, tie rod ends also have some loose, then rear camber arms, both sides so basicaly everything will comes up with the time. What is your recomendation to do? And how long i could drive with that noise in a front. I drive car every day.

 

Honestly it's a decision YOU will have to make. Presonally I work on my own cars so I'm only out the cost of parts and my time (which is finite and precious...).

I replaced every single wearable component and bushing (energy suspension master kit) in the front but also installed Z1 Motorsports camber kit for front and rear.

Then I did the differential, motor, and transmission mounts as I had various components out for upgrades (lsd, new cd009, clutch/flywheel, etc.).

However I had time to leave the vehicle up in the air for weeks at a time as I was doing replacements.

I know this is a unique.position to be in and definitely not something most people can do so you're going to have to listen to your heart and your gut (and your wallet) and decide what's the best path for YOU.

Just my gut feeling but if you're going to have to pay a shop rate to do these maintenance tasks then you might consider selling the vehicle and getting into a newer low-mile 2008+ G37. Otherwise you're going to spend potentially $2k+ that might be better spent on a newer and subjectively "better" platform.

I love the G35 coupe however, it's my dream car so there isn't any distance I won't travel, how far are YOU willing to go?

 

I ordered one ball joint but then checked another one what is also bad so i m gonna order one more ball joint and still thinking about control arm. Ball joints are from MEVOTECH. What you guys recommend between MOOG(95$), ACDELCO (115$) and Mevotech (75$), OEM control arm is about 200, talking about front lower forward. Thanks

 

DK94, are you a relatively adept "shade tree mechanic"? This work will require the proper tools, extreme care and attention to detail, plus, when done with the mechanical work, an alignment will be needed.
You really might want to take the car to a respected chassis shop in your area, darned the expense.
It isn't going to get any better as the car continues to age.

Like the "Old Milwaukee Beer" commercial said, "It doesn't get any better than this!"

 

I agree with you that some of work on a car should be done by mechanic but also many of parts on a car can be replaced by yourself. Alignment will be done too for sure.

 

I mean rebuilding the front suspension was the second car repair related activity I ever did, but the first "repair" I ever did was a FWD clutch so I guess you could say I like getting in deep. Both were on my daily drivers I needed to get to work on Monday lol. Honestly if you're good at Google and you research like crazy beforehand, buy the right tools, and have another vehicle to make parts store / tool rental / Harbor freight runs you'll be fine... As long as you have common sense, the internet (this forum, YouTube) and the ability to read and execute torque specs from the FSM. It's not rocket science.

 

Got changed arm and ball joint and noise is still there. Just cant believe. Arm was definitely bad both brushings on that. What know? I only guess that could be shock mount...

 

Don't know exactly what sort of noise you've got, but if it's a light "clunk-clunk" especially when the left/right side of the cars are at different elevations (bumps and such), check your sway bar end links (pretty easy to disconnect them to test drive). If they're original, that's a good guess.