Hi Guys! I had to lie in my account making because I don't own a g35 :P .. YET!. I am looking forward to buying one with the money that I am going to make over this summer. I made this post because I have one in my eye sight right now but I really need some community help. In the ad [link: https://www.kijijiautos.ca/vip/10087...%2C-79.7624177 ] it says it has an electrical issue and wont start (cranks but no start). Now I have messaged the seller and s/he said the car has been started by his mechanic by clearing all the engine codes. S/he is looking to sell it quick because S/he got a new car and doesn't have time for this one anymore. I can snag a good deal with this and I am willing to get this issue fixed because all the other common problems with this car are already fixed. Any ideas with what the issue could be and how much it would cost to fix it? I have done some research and I think it could be a faulty engine computer but other than that the seller and I have no idea.

One common problem for a G to crank but not turn is the Cam Shaft Sensor. Replacing it yourself is pretty easy and will cost between 30-100 depending if you want to go third-part or OEM.

Electrical problems are easy to fix if you know your engine controls...
Canadian car? Parts are silly expensive north of the border. Its so bad that it makes no sense fixing anything big locally.

Thanks I’ll look into it!

Usually a no start on these cars is a bad crankshaft or camshaft sensors. Take an OBD code reader with u and scan the car to see what codes are popping up.

Also, these cars are known for having suspension parts wear out pretty quickly; bushings and bearings. Make sure those are good or have been replaced. Or else youll be spending a ton of money if u cant do it yourself.

Yes its a Canadian car. For some reason I have seen many American g35's for sale here in Canada. Although there is nothing wrong with them I just can't stand the empirical system. 60mph is highway speeds for you guys and 60kmph is/less than road speeds for us LOL. (if I were to get an American car, is it possible to change the gage cluster with a Canadian one?). Yea other than that parts are expensive here but so it everything else. I can talk the seller down a lot ($2800 cad for the car at max) that's why I wouldn't mind fixing it, if its a one time fix. I'm good with cars but only if I know what the problem is. if the fix is anything less than 1k I don't mind in buying this car.

Thank you so much. How do I check if the bushings and bearings are good? and what about the control arms and axle because I have heard a lot about axle clicking with g35's and 350z's.

If they're OEM just assume they're toast. But you can look at the front tire wear too for uneven wear

The only way to tell is by inspecting it or driving it. Although they might not be immediately noticeable at first while driving.

But its mainly the wheel bearings which go bad and the bushings on the front arms.

At the age of these cars, any original rubber part regardless of mileage or visual condition is living on borrowed time, you might be able to get away with it if you're a grandma driver but if you drive it like a sports car something in the front end WILL go bad and you might not notice until you eat through a pair of expensive front tires (~$350 a pair for my Indy 500s).

If you're into making this car drive like it did from factory, plan to replace:

front ball joints
sway bar end links
polyurethane sway bar bushings
compression rods - replace rubber with Whiteline poly bushings immediately
Whiteline control arm bushings

Those are the parts that "go bad" most frequently

but you might as well replace everything else too while you're at it since the Whiteline Essential bushings kit includes all the rest of the front end bushings as well as the differential bushing which is guaranteed bad if it isn't polyurethane or solid already.

Then get an alignment.

It makes a huge difference to the way the car drives as well as saving money on tires. Everyone who drives my car coming from worn OEM bushings is amazed at how well it responds to steering input especially at higher speeds, and it just goes where you put it regardless of speed or how hard you take a corner... and I'm stock spec suspension other than the bushings.

I'm pretty sure you can simply swap the imperial instrument cluster for the metric one.

Thank you so much! I will look into this much more.

is this the kit? https://www.z1motorsports.com/suspen...it-p-8608.html

That's a good, comprehensive one. However if you can't DIY the replacement bushings labor will kill your wallet. Most aren't that hard but it's a lot of labor hours to replace them all.

In all honesty, if you can't turn your own wrenches to some degree then you're probably better off buying/leasing a new car with a warranty.

Otherwise the shop rates are going to destroy your bank account.