I thought I would make a thread for how I fixed my RAS fault in case it can help anyone else who comes across this issue in the future, and maybe save them some money. I have a 2006 Coupe that has just crossed 103k miles.


As I was driving, the SLIP, VDC off, and RAS lights turned on. No CEL appeared after a dozen miles and a few startups. I was able to throw an ABS scanner on it and found a code C1137 "RAS Circuit".

I then performed the RAS self diagnostic test. Starting the car, turning the steering wheel at least 20 degrees left and right five times and then pressing the brake 5 times. This flashed the code 13 "Motor Output" and 26 "VDC".




https://imgur.com/dGgDoIn



First I checked the RAS harness connection and the relay which are located in the trunk. Remove the trunk carpet and spare tire. Underneath the plastic cover on the left hand side is a few modules. The module which is sitting on the very top is the RAS/VDC module. The harness connection has a grey lever lock. The relay is the blue one sitting right in the open. The harness looked fine and I tested the relay which was fine.

The motor was my next step in troubleshooting. A few posts on the internet suggest the motor/rack from the M35/M45 will work as a replacement but I didn't want to drop $150 on rack from ebay before I took a look at my motor.

Removing the motor itself wasn't too difficult. Two 12mm bolts and it comes right out. A 10" or more extension on a ratchet is all you need. I had to use heat on the bottom bolt to make sure I didn't snap it. Once the motor was out I got zero continuity between the pins and applying 6volts to them like it says in the service manual didn't have any movement.

To open the motor, there are two Phillips screws to take off. Again I used heat and vice grips to get these loose and then they screwed out fine. There was a lot of corrosion between the black housing and the aluminum base of the motor. To take the motor housing off, I had to hold the black housing and use a hammer to tap the base of the motor away from me. Once a small gap opened up I began prying and eventually the housing came off. Immediately I could see the problem.



https://imgur.com/7wf5aJu


One of the springs for the brushes had corroded, melted, something. Maybe a drop of water made its way into the motor and caused a short between the spring and the metal housing. You can see it in two pieces right below the motor. To remedy this, I used two small pliers to uncoil part of what was left of the spring and shape it to how it was originally. I tried my best to mimic the tension of the other side.

Here is a nice out of focus image with both springs in place.



https://imgur.com/M29BgQT

While i was in there I cleaned the commutator with alcohol, cleaned the corrosion off of the inner motor housing, and applied new silicone grease to the o-rings. When reassembling the motor, it is important to have a firm grip and very slowly put the pieces together. I warn you about this because I did not do this the first time. The magnets pulled the motor together quickly and it caused the bushing in the top of the housing to dislodge and go out of alignment. I was able to use a screwdriver to carefully tap it into alignment but it was a waste of 15 minutes of trial and error.

Once the motor was back together, I tested it with 6v again and it just kind of buzzed and very slowly turned. This was good enough for me and I installed it back in the car. When I started the car, right away the lights went away. I took it driving for about 20 minutes of mixed highway and it all seems to be working. Time will tell how long term this fix lasts but I see no reason why it would fail in the same way.

I never appreciated the Rear Active Steering over the past 5 years of owning the car. I didn't even notice a difference when it stopped working. But since it took me about two weeks to finally get around to this fix, now that it is working again I definitely enjoy the subtle difference it makes.

 

Looks like your pictures didn't upload properly. RAS is definitely awesome once you are comfortable with how the tail corrects against swinging out during high speed rapid corners. Feels very "unnatural" initially.

 

Kind of wish I had this now that I am enjoying my car a lot more!

 

Thank you for the write-up! I may go in, just for preventative-ness(did I just invent a word?!)!

I wish I could drive a similarly tired car so I could really feel the RAS working. I have taken my G around some of the same corners I take with my MR2 Spyder. I have to admit, it does turn quickly/solidly for such a big(comparatively) car!

 

Great Writeup. I'm having the same code ( C1137 "RAS Circuit") and I'm not sure what it means when the service manual states to "touch ECU PART NUMBER". Am I supposed to have some tool connected to the car? When I do the procedure with the wheel and the brake, I don't see anything change on my dash. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

As far as I know, the C1137 is a generic ABS code. You will need to get the self test procedure to work or use a scanner that supports enhanced Nissan/Infiniti system scans in order to further diagnose the RAS system.

 

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I never got around to doing the diagnostic test, I just decided to open up the motor and hope that I had the same problem as OP.
It was pretty hard to get it open and I had to use vice grips on the screws, but everything inside the motor was mint. Waste of fifteen minutes, and the continuity was fine between the leads in the plug.
After putting the motor back together and plugging it back in I decided to remake the ground to the chassis (there are two grounds, coming of the bottom bolt for the motor). This had been torn off before I even got the car but never caused issues before so I ignored it. I just used a normal circle shaped terminal and the wedge style one I got in a value pack, crimped them on to an old wire I had laying around, and used a self tapper into the chassis because I broke the head off the original bolt.

Car started and lights were gone, what a stupid fix lol.
I'm guessing it's a decently rare problem because I haven't found much information about it online, so I hope this helps someone.

 

The "touch ECM" directions are for use with the consult-II/III dealership tool.