I have a 2006 G35x Sedan. I'm also having the common fuel gauge problem where at full tank it's full, but gauge only drops to like 3/4 or half line. I basically live by pumping gas every 300-350 miles to keep trac

I'd like to attempt to fix it, and most have recommended the cleaning the fuel pump gauge sensor(didn't work). So I though I'd try to buy the driver & eventually passenger side fuel pump assembly and Fuel sending unit.

Keep running into coupe parts rather than Sedan, need some advice on the next 'fix' attempt and proper correct parts to buy.

Thanks ahead,

Cheetahs26

 

Test your cluster first or test the resistance on the current sending units before dropping money on parts.

 

Just tested the cluster. I think they're all normal. Basically with every click all the gauges rises up to a quarter.

Please see attached. Not familiar with the resistance test. I do have a multimeter I can borrow (never used it before).

 

I believe it's your cluster the fuel gauge should end up right at the halfway mark. It's usually due to some solder getting loose.

Don't worry my car has the same problem and I have to do with you do too and it's caused me to run out a few times. I bought a used BMW 328i though which is my DD, so I don't drive the G that much and the fixes it needs have gone to the wayside.

 

With my fuel gauge cluster self test only hitting 'bit lower' then 1/2. Will that be the root cause to gauge only showing from full to 3/4 or 1/2.

Should I still test the resistance(if yes, you got any brief procedures so I can test it myself possibly)?

 

You should read through this thread.
https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-sed...etailed-5.html

Lots of info here where several people including me test and fix various problems with the fuel gauge. It can be problems in the senders as well as the cluster. Your symptom is the same as mine. My problem ended up being in the cluster. There are instructions in that thread for how to go through all the testing and fixing. It's a long thread but there's good info there. It will save you time and money if you read it first.

My gauge hit the same mark yours did during the self test. That's not the problem with the gauge. It's most likely some resistors on the cluster printed circuit board. But you should go through the trouble shooting steps in that thread to check the easy stuff first (senders).

 

There are two different senders and each one varies in resistance depending how full/low the tank is. What I did to test mine is take them out and hook a multimeter and move the arm manually.

You can try the other procedures, but it's most likely the cluster board some places charge a few hundred dollars to fix or you can try to solder yourself. My senders were fine when I tested them.

 

I finally had the chance to test both my fuel senders. It was within range, can't recall the exact number, but it was between resistance 4 to 80 ohm on one and 4 to 40ish ohn on the other. According to the manual it should be accurate.

So I started looking into cluster options, rather to buy new which is not an option($1000-$1700) are those 'ship to repair' options that ranges around $200.

3rd option is to take it out and see if self-soldering is possible, but not too familiar with it enough to take the risk.

What do you think folks?

 

why not try and do it yourself? there are enough threads or youtube videos with diy instructions that show you how to remove the cluster and open it up to get to the resistors. even if you don't have any soldering tools already you can get a complete beginner soldering kit for $20-30. worst case you can't solder the resistors well enough to fix it and then you send it off to the mail in place or just put it back in and refuel based on mileage. if you can watch youtube and follow instructions you can probably learn to do this yourself.

 

Rock Auto has them but it's listed under 2007 model year, pretty sure it's the same part. Rock Auto is not the best at keeping all of their parts listings straight. CarID also has them.