When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
If you're planning on keeping the car a while, the 370Z/G37 Nissan Value Advantage hub & axle combo is a great deal. You get the beefier wheel bearings of the Z34/V36 and stronger axles for a decent price. Z1 or CZP should be able to get that kit for you.
Edit: found the kit on Z1's website, includes a comparison pic if the bearing differences. https://www.z1motorsports.com/rear-hub-and-rotor/nissan-value-advantage/350z-g35-rear-axle-and-wheel-bearing-upgrade-kit-p-15444.html
G35 Sedan Leather Base, Z1 Plenum Spacer, Z Tube (Currently sold to a friend)
I bought these for my sedan, very cheap at $106 for the pair. The OEM ones started scratching at 60k miles, so I wasn't going to spend a fortune on a factory part that might not last again.
Had an issue with rear brake caliper seizing up. Made so much extra heat it blew the seal on the wheel bearing. Had to replace the bearing, caliper and pads.
Having to replace the driver side front bearing hub assembly. Turns out Timken has issues in manufacturing like everyone else. Abs engages driver side brake when making right hand turns due to bearing issue. It’ll be fixed this week with new Timken assembly. Gonna replace the brake/speed sensor as well, for that wheel, just to be safe. Rock auto, best pricing.
Dredging up an old thread. I bought my 3rd G35. A blue 2005. The P.O. did not do a lot of the maintenance that needed to be done. I got it cheap but am putting some money into it.
It needs one front bearing or the other. I figured I'd go ahead and do both (the whole hub) instead of guessing wrong and having to do the other one later anyway. Plus it has just a hair of brake warp. So I want to go ahead and do new rotors and pads while I'm in there.
Question is: Do the front hubs on these cars have an ABS sensor? And where can I find the torque specs?
Download the factory service manual (FSM) from nicoclub.com. Put all the files in one folder. Start with the fwd file (table of contents). Clickable links will take you where you want to go. Torque specs are there for pretty much every fastener.
The sections you are looking for are BR - Brakes and FSU - Front Suspension. They have diagrams with torque spec, just be sure to read the key on the page so you know which is ft/lbs. It's always the second number inside the parenthesis.
For brakes/rotors I strongly recommend R1 Concepts. They have an excellent oem-equivalent pad and are VERY reasonably priced.
To answer your question though, yes the G35 has an ABS sensor but it's not built into the hub.
If you don't have access to a bearing press you can buy the bearing/hub as an assembly. Otherwise it will be much more cost effective to buy just the bearings and press them onto your existing hubs.
cleric670 - Thanks, seriously. Funny thing is, I have a bearing puller, but not a press. What I have done in the past is: Freeze the new bearing, pull the old bearing, hold the new bearing back in position, and drive it in with the old bearing, race-to-race (being careful), and a block of wood for my dead-blow hammer to pound against. That was on some motorcycle stuff. Not sure if it would work out the same way in our G35 application (for pulling or "pressing").
I would rather just buy the bearings because the hub is not inexpensive. I'm looking at $108 for each hub. That's for Centric. I've had really great experience with Centric brake components. Maybe I should just buy the El Cheapo hubs? $40 each. Problem is, I frequently run into problems with cheap junk. I guess I'd rather pay more and never have another problem, than save money and have to deal with problems.
I've got 99 problems, and a bitch is 98 of them! Don't need any more problems.
The front hubs come as an assembly, you're not gonna replace just the bearing on those. The abs tone ring is built into the back part of the vfront hub, so try not to damage it while you're installing them. You'll see the the bolt for the abs sensor on the back of the spindle where the 4 bolts for the hub are located. It's pretty obvious when you're looking at it.
I've replaced mine twice, and it was much easier the second time to just remove the whole spindle and change the hub on a bench.
The rear is the ones sold as a separate hub and bearing that needs to be pressed together. If you only need to do the front, it's a simple remove and replace job.
This bearing splitter is a little overkill but I've broken smaller ones in the past and I personally think this is the perfect size to own since it will do everything from small cars to HD trucks.
If you don't actually plan on using this thing at least once per year and have somewhere to store it then you definitely better off spending the extra $100 and just buying the hub assembly.
I would stay away from Centric mostly because Timken bearings have such an excellent reputation on this platform.
Just make sure to spray a little PB Blaster pentrating lube on the old hub when pressing it off and put a little oil or something on the new one to help it slide on easier, it's effortless to press those bearings off/on with the tools I listed.