Verdict in on my 05 G35 with 36000
Verdict in on my 05 G35 with 36000
Unbelievable but no one could figure what the issue was and both shops, including Nissan says new transmission needed, $3400 out the door. So now debating whether it’s worth it. I have all records on it, only has 36000 miles on it. Probably now couldn’t get anything for it on trade. So do I sell outright? Keep it and have them (Nissan) do the tranny for $3400? And then what do I even bother getting? Loved driving this, just wanted to update stereo head unit.
hard shift, (don't usually use this but when I tried it) triptonic works and then decides not to suddenly, revs high like its in beast mode after 4000 rpms, slips sometimes, jumps from one gear to another when it feels like it.
Remember I posted it was my mom's car. She never drove it and it was garage kept. I got it at 22K and have had it a yr and half now it has 36K on it and suddenly tranny acting up.
Now the question is; is it worth having Nissan put transmission in for $3400 or just trade/sell outright (if I can) it's a 2005 coupe. been maintained by infiniti, even when my mom was rear ended she had infiniti do the work.
Transmission fluid isn't nearly as susceptible to water contamination as say the brake system, I doubt contamination is the issue. That said I would still drain/fill the tranny as per maintenance but save the fluid in a very clean container and see if it starts to separate water on the top.
My gut is telling me it's an electrical issue or valve body failure (sticking solenoid).
Regardless of mileage the vehicle is still 15 years old, electrical parts corrode according to the environment and TIME, not according to mileage. On the top front of the timing chain cover are some wires landed on the two bolts, with the engine off unbolt that stuff, use a wire brush to clean ALL the mating metal parts, apply a very thin layer of electrical anti-oxidation grease, bolt it back together. There is also a bonding jumper from the passenger side of the timing chain cover that lands on the chassis directly below the coolant reservoir on a 2-hole lug, clean that one as well. The negative wire for the battery is very short and lands on the chassis right next to the battery on a 2-hole lug, clean that one as well to eliminate the possibility of any electrical issue.
That is an extremely simply task to clean that stuff up and will cost you the price of a small metal brush and a $2 squeeze packet of de-ox grease from the auto parts store.
If the problem still persists then it's more than likely something corroded inside one of the valve body solenoids, you can source an entire valve body for about $300 for a rebuilt unit (check out the Sonnax ones for sale on Rockauto.com).
You also have the option of buying a used transmission and paying a shop to swap it if you aren't comfortable doing the task yourself.
What tests did Nissan run? Can you photo and post some of the paperwork they gave you, just redact all your personal information with a sticky note or pile up coins or something on the info you don't want shared if you want to be all old school before everyone had a camera with a photo editor in their pocket. I'm curious to see if Nissan actually ran the transmission fault diagnostic, if it came back as PASS then the TCM is good and it's probably the valve body.
It also wouldn't hurt to get out on the road and just floor it wide open throttle, it's already broken, see what happens, might be a congealed bit of fluid stuck in a solenoid and the high pressure will shoot it out and get it to stick in the filter or just make it dissolve.
Also curious, I suspect this vehicle has sat for a year or longer on a few intervals without being driven, is this the case? What's the longest it ever sat?
My gut is telling me it's an electrical issue or valve body failure (sticking solenoid).
Regardless of mileage the vehicle is still 15 years old, electrical parts corrode according to the environment and TIME, not according to mileage. On the top front of the timing chain cover are some wires landed on the two bolts, with the engine off unbolt that stuff, use a wire brush to clean ALL the mating metal parts, apply a very thin layer of electrical anti-oxidation grease, bolt it back together. There is also a bonding jumper from the passenger side of the timing chain cover that lands on the chassis directly below the coolant reservoir on a 2-hole lug, clean that one as well. The negative wire for the battery is very short and lands on the chassis right next to the battery on a 2-hole lug, clean that one as well to eliminate the possibility of any electrical issue.
That is an extremely simply task to clean that stuff up and will cost you the price of a small metal brush and a $2 squeeze packet of de-ox grease from the auto parts store.
If the problem still persists then it's more than likely something corroded inside one of the valve body solenoids, you can source an entire valve body for about $300 for a rebuilt unit (check out the Sonnax ones for sale on Rockauto.com).
You also have the option of buying a used transmission and paying a shop to swap it if you aren't comfortable doing the task yourself.
What tests did Nissan run? Can you photo and post some of the paperwork they gave you, just redact all your personal information with a sticky note or pile up coins or something on the info you don't want shared if you want to be all old school before everyone had a camera with a photo editor in their pocket. I'm curious to see if Nissan actually ran the transmission fault diagnostic, if it came back as PASS then the TCM is good and it's probably the valve body.
It also wouldn't hurt to get out on the road and just floor it wide open throttle, it's already broken, see what happens, might be a congealed bit of fluid stuck in a solenoid and the high pressure will shoot it out and get it to stick in the filter or just make it dissolve.
Also curious, I suspect this vehicle has sat for a year or longer on a few intervals without being driven, is this the case? What's the longest it ever sat?
Personally I dont believe it's a bad tranny BUT I'm no mechanic but do all my own mods and work to mine, if the verdict really is a bad tranny I'll and you really wanna sale I'll take it off you're hands you ain't to far from me.
Transmission fluid isn't nearly as susceptible to water contamination as say the brake system, I doubt contamination is the issue. That said I would still drain/fill the tranny as per maintenance but save the fluid in a very clean container and see if it starts to separate water on the top.
My gut is telling me it's an electrical issue or valve body failure (sticking solenoid).
Regardless of mileage the vehicle is still 15 years old, electrical parts corrode according to the environment and TIME, not according to mileage. On the top front of the timing chain cover are some wires landed on the two bolts, with the engine off unbolt that stuff, use a wire brush to clean ALL the mating metal parts, apply a very thin layer of electrical anti-oxidation grease, bolt it back together. There is also a bonding jumper from the passenger side of the timing chain cover that lands on the chassis directly below the coolant reservoir on a 2-hole lug, clean that one as well. The negative wire for the battery is very short and lands on the chassis right next to the battery on a 2-hole lug, clean that one as well to eliminate the possibility of any electrical issue.
That is an extremely simply task to clean that stuff up and will cost you the price of a small metal brush and a $2 squeeze packet of de-ox grease from the auto parts store.
If the problem still persists then it's more than likely something corroded inside one of the valve body solenoids, you can source an entire valve body for about $300 for a rebuilt unit (check out the Sonnax ones for sale on Rockauto.com).
You also have the option of buying a used transmission and paying a shop to swap it if you aren't comfortable doing the task yourself.
What tests did Nissan run? Can you photo and post some of the paperwork they gave you, just redact all your personal information with a sticky note or pile up coins or something on the info you don't want shared if you want to be all old school before everyone had a camera with a photo editor in their pocket. I'm curious to see if Nissan actually ran the transmission fault diagnostic, if it came back as PASS then the TCM is good and it's probably the valve body.
It also wouldn't hurt to get out on the road and just floor it wide open throttle, it's already broken, see what happens, might be a congealed bit of fluid stuck in a solenoid and the high pressure will shoot it out and get it to stick in the filter or just make it dissolve.
Also curious, I suspect this vehicle has sat for a year or longer on a few intervals without being driven, is this the case? What's the longest it ever sat?
My gut is telling me it's an electrical issue or valve body failure (sticking solenoid).
Regardless of mileage the vehicle is still 15 years old, electrical parts corrode according to the environment and TIME, not according to mileage. On the top front of the timing chain cover are some wires landed on the two bolts, with the engine off unbolt that stuff, use a wire brush to clean ALL the mating metal parts, apply a very thin layer of electrical anti-oxidation grease, bolt it back together. There is also a bonding jumper from the passenger side of the timing chain cover that lands on the chassis directly below the coolant reservoir on a 2-hole lug, clean that one as well. The negative wire for the battery is very short and lands on the chassis right next to the battery on a 2-hole lug, clean that one as well to eliminate the possibility of any electrical issue.
That is an extremely simply task to clean that stuff up and will cost you the price of a small metal brush and a $2 squeeze packet of de-ox grease from the auto parts store.
If the problem still persists then it's more than likely something corroded inside one of the valve body solenoids, you can source an entire valve body for about $300 for a rebuilt unit (check out the Sonnax ones for sale on Rockauto.com).
You also have the option of buying a used transmission and paying a shop to swap it if you aren't comfortable doing the task yourself.
What tests did Nissan run? Can you photo and post some of the paperwork they gave you, just redact all your personal information with a sticky note or pile up coins or something on the info you don't want shared if you want to be all old school before everyone had a camera with a photo editor in their pocket. I'm curious to see if Nissan actually ran the transmission fault diagnostic, if it came back as PASS then the TCM is good and it's probably the valve body.
It also wouldn't hurt to get out on the road and just floor it wide open throttle, it's already broken, see what happens, might be a congealed bit of fluid stuck in a solenoid and the high pressure will shoot it out and get it to stick in the filter or just make it dissolve.
Also curious, I suspect this vehicle has sat for a year or longer on a few intervals without being driven, is this the case? What's the longest it ever sat?
Fluid was brownish pink so I know it needs changed. Now if I have them replace valve body and fluid and it still acts up I will kick myself but again it doesn't make sense at all for entire tranny to need replaced.
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The saga continues....
Nissan I called and asked to quote me just valve body not entire transmission so here is breakdown..
NEW from Infiniti Valve Body $1320.21 (labor cost about the same) 12 month/12000 mile warranty
Transmission used unknown miles (under 100k but not sure until we get it at the shop) 6 month warranty. out the door under $3400
Waiting on Cottmans transmission shop to quote me both too. They weren't too thrilled quoting me without seeing it but I told them it is currently at Nissan and already been to another shop and both places said same thing so just quote me lol
Nissan I called and asked to quote me just valve body not entire transmission so here is breakdown..
NEW from Infiniti Valve Body $1320.21 (labor cost about the same) 12 month/12000 mile warranty
Transmission used unknown miles (under 100k but not sure until we get it at the shop) 6 month warranty. out the door under $3400
Waiting on Cottmans transmission shop to quote me both too. They weren't too thrilled quoting me without seeing it but I told them it is currently at Nissan and already been to another shop and both places said same thing so just quote me lol

Ok if the AT check light is on THERE IS A CODE, check your Nissan paperwork. Tranny codes are all P#### codes just like engine codes but most OBD2 scanners don't read tranny codes just engine ones.
Nissan definitely hooked up the consult tool, they definitely read the code.
Nissan definitely hooked up the consult tool, they definitely read the code.
Didn't notice speed jumping just the RPM going crazy








