I’ve done some digging and haven’t really found anything about this electric turbo system on a g35. I was wondering if anyone knew if this would be worth it to buy for a VQ. Would I gain whp or just move my max power output to a lower section of the power band?

Here’s the link to their site;
https://torqamp.com/

Any advice is appreciated!

 

Yes that thing works, they are not a BS scam like pretty much every other "electric supercharger" on the market. Torqueamp is actually a proven unit that will build low boost.

HOWEVER there's a couple of small issues with it!

-When it's not turned on the engine has to suck air past it and make it spin, there will be a little parasitic loss when not actively under boost. They make a bypass valve that can be plumbed in to alleviate this but it's not part of the base kit.

-The duty cycle is fairly low, it's got a battery box that charges off the alternator and transforms power up to 48v which is what the electric SC operates at, basically you get 2 minutes of boost every 15 or so minutes.

-You're only going to build about 4-5psi of boost with a 3.5L motor and it's not going to maintain boost at higher rpm, there simply isn't enough airflow from the electric SC, you'll probably drop down to about 3psi at high rpm. However 4psi is still like 50whp

So basically It's $2500 for 50whp.

Personally I would do this:

-plenum spacer ($250 or if you have the 6mt you also need the MREV2 lower plenum for an additional $500)

-HFC ($350)

-75mm TB ($400)

-admin tuning 3.5" intake ($350)

-true dual exhaust (up to $1200 depending on what you get)

-Uprev tune ($700)

Which will net you the same 50 whp gain but you will have it ALL THE TIME not just when you floor it WOT and turn on the electric SC.

 

We don't deserve you cleric.

 

Would getting my car tuned after I have the torque amp installed help with whp gains or is it to low of boost? Also thank you for that amazing reply!!!

 

You will definitely see more gains getting a tune with the torqueamp. One of the biggest disadvantages it has that I didn't mention is the sudden inrush of air throws fuel mix out for a couple cycles while the ECM makes adjustment. Tuning will help a TON with this since they can just load up the WOT maps with fuel so it's not lean-spiking and making a bunch of compensation.

 

Wow thank you so much for the great responses. I have my car prepared ish for FI (I’m only planning on running max 7psi boost) and now it’s time to decide what’s the best move. The turbo and supercharger kits (that aren’t eBay kits) are rly expensive and I don’t wanna drop that much money into a 14yo car. That’s why I’m considering this or maybe NOS since I’m not gonna need all that hp all the time, only rly at the drag strip. What do you think? I need more experienced opinions on this since I’m fairly new to the car community.

 

Personally I'd go NOS over the Torqueamp if you're looking for track-only power.

However there's a lot of other things you can do to lower your ET that aren't going to put extra strain on the motor. Gears, weight reduction, etc. 10 lbs of unsprung weight (how much the car weighs on the scale) is roughly equal to 1 whp.

Lose 200 lbs of stuff that's basically 20whp.

Rotating mass (flywheel, driveshaft, crank pulley, wheels, etc) each pound reduced is equal to 4 lbs of unsprung mass.

Driveshaft, stock 34 lbs is aluminum aftermarket is 18 lbs.

Flywheel, stock is 28 lbs lightweight single mass is 14 lbs.

Crank pulley stock is 6 lbs aluminum is 2 (not an underdrive pulley, those don't work well with our variable pitch AC compressors.

Not sure which wheels you have but the stock 19" Rays are pretty heavy (21 lbs) compared to a smaller diameter lightweight wheel.

If you have a 5AT then switching the differential to a higher geared one is a pretty substantial increase in acceleration.

 

Also, the power heated seats in our cars are VERY heavy, almost 80 lbs apiece for the front seats and another 40 for the rear. A Kirkey seat only weights 13 lbs, if you want to full racecar the thing you lose 200lbs of weight just scrapping the OEM seats.

I definitely wouldn't want to daily driver in Kirkeys though lol.

 

Lol just googled kirkey seats.

Ouch. Lol
​​​​​

 

If you're only sitting in them for 10-15 minutes they're not bad tbh. All depends on what you're building.

 

Weight reduction is definitely on the list but I do daily drive my G so I’m for sure keeping those seats

I might do a basic 50 dry shot of nos (again I’m rly not looking for anything crazy) and a tune as well as the diff you mentioned.

Speaking of that, what exactly does a higher geared differential do in terms of acceleration or hp?

 

It doesn't change the wheel hp, it makes each revolution of the transmission turn the tires a little less, less work required.

It will lower your top speed, as well as raise your highway cruising rpm so most people don't go any higher than 3.7 but look up threads on it because it's a very substantial gain in acceleration. Coupled with the TransGo shift kit it's a whole different car if you have the 5AT.

If you have the 6MT I wouldn't swap gears, you fly through them quick enough as is and should instead focus on things like SMLW flywheel and such.

Exactly what car do you have anyways?

 

Ok that’s good to know. I have an 07 G35 coupe 5AT so the higher gearing would definitely help.