You sure the turbos are going to fit the engine bay in that location?

These are the same manifolds they used on the old GTM kits. The driver side turbo does seem to stick out further but is not much longer than the stock manifolds. If I can’t quite use these manifolds I’ll have to fab up my own. So we shall see once I get ready to swap in the new motor.

Sweet, can't wait to see the final fitment then, I love how close and compact and HIGH UP it keeps those twins, if that all fits I want a set of those manifolds. I bet you could gravity feed return the oil and still be just barely above pan oil level with a nice sweep on the return line..

Been slacking on posting updates. Stillen oil pan order was a PITA. Ordered from CZP and Z1 motorsports and both stated backorder with no ETA. Called Stillen directly and spoke with Kenny Duong. Explained to him what happened and he worked some magic and got me one shipped the next day! I didn't want to run a spacer as I know I would be tapping into the upper oil pan. Here it is installed.


I also ordered an upgraded clutch kit. I found a used ACT Heavy Duty clutch with LUK DM flywheel on ebay for $100 shipped. I figure if it works during tuning/break in I got my moneys worth. Then I found used lightweight AMS pulleys for the crank/alternator and got the crank pulley installed.


Last thing before I can mount the turbos is to get the motor mounts placed and she'll be ready for test fitment in the engine bay!



I'm still working on the wastegate mount for the driver side. I got a 1"x7/64"x6' piece of steel from lowes and got something worked up just need to weld it together. Pics to follow soon.

I think it's a mistake to run that lightweight pulley, that's pretty much for stock power levels. Once you start adding power you need at LEAST the stock damper and preferrably an upgraded harmonic dampener or you're putting the bearings and oil pump at risk. If you plan on running any more rpm then you definitely need a better-than-stock dampener.

If your target is like 500whp or less you could get by with the stock dampener, if you're over that or plan on spinning higher than 7500 then you would definitely want to spend the money on a better dampener to protect the investment.

Personally I would run a better dampener in ANY FI situation, they money spent is cheap insurance against wearing out the motor early or blowing the oil pump and trashing the entire setup.

The lightweight alternator pulley would be fine though.

EDIT: Yeah I know "damper" is the correct word, not "dampener" , or is it the other way around. Who knows!

ill see what she puts down on the Dyno and go from there. It’s all a learning experience for me, good or bad things will happen.

Yeah, my gut feeling is the pump will survive but the bearings will probably get hammered. Wouldn't be a bad idea to pull a rod cap at like 40k miles and see how the bearing is holding up.

It's actually a good thing to do on ANY higher HP non-OEM setup.

depending on how she does is depending if I’ll switch out turbos too. And if that’s the case the motor has to be pulled as well. I am destined to pull the motor out again in the future. If I go bigger turbos I’ll definitely get the damper.

So I did some research while waiting for parts and found a bunch of things about a damper rather than a lightweight. So I came to the conclusion that no matter how I look at it that pulley is in fact needed. So I went ahead and decided on the fluidampr to keep OEM belts.

Yeah I've had really bad experiences with light weight pulleys in the past before I knew how important the damper is, you could get away with the stock damper initially but you would want to replace it with a higher performance one within 10k or so miles because your bearings take one hell of a beating from harmonics. Ideally you would just throw it all together at once because sometimes it's a pain getting the pulley off with the radiator still in place unless you have a puller that will fit.

If you do decide to replace it later just take a little motor oil and put it on the crank pulley shaft so you can easily pull that OEM pulley back off with just your hands (I always oil up the crank shaft regardless just to make the pulley slide on easier).

My high performance damper came in today. This is the single piece from Fluidampr. I decided to get this one instead of the ATI for two reasons. Maintain OEM belt sizes and single piece vs two piece. And I guess price wise this was $389.99 shipped vs $435 for the ATI shipped. So that helped the decision process as well.

SUBSCRIBED can't believe im just getting in on this.. GREAT JOB so far I'm looking for my motor now 100 bucks was a great find. Im with you everyone says single is better but nothing says sexy like TWINS. my horsepower goals are a little bit more conservative due to I won't be able to put so much money at it. Maybe ill throw a single on my stock setup and take a little more time building the new motor. But for sure this is inspiring and Im here for the ride thanks for posting.

Thanks! I was running the Rev9 turbonetics style single turbo set up. However it was a PITA getting it installed. I had to make minor modifications to make it fit, but once installed it wasn't half bad. I also wanted to keep my AC which caused a little bit of fitment issues. I know I'm going to have a TON of those with the twins. Oh well, that's a problem for future me to worry about

Finally got around to removing the old motor. Taking the motor out wasn't too bad as it only took a few hours. I decided to take the wiring harness out with it to make it easier on myself.



Started swapping over some of the accessories, routing the oil feed lines and figuring out where I am going to run the turbo water lines. Which the best place I found was routing the 6AN hoses to the 3/8" connections coming off the coolant pipe.



The bracket I fab'd up for the wastegate on the passenger is tucked up underneath the turbo, so it isn't quite visible. I shaved down just a bit from the bellhousing to get the actuator to clear. I tested everything by blowing air into the wastegate and watching it open and close freely.


I also installed the oil filter sandwich plate for the oil cooler I bought. I was able to run both oil feed lines from it and just added a tee fitting on the oil pressure sensor to attached my AEM oil pressure sensor. I also went ahead and swapped out the alternator pulley with the lightweight one I ordered with the lightweight pulley. I ended up giving the pulley to a buddy of mine who would be able to make use of it, rather than it sit in my garage. From the looks of it, I'll be able to gravity feed the oil return if I tap into the upper oil pan... right???




I also found an installation guide for the GTM kit and it mentions the use of a engine mount spacer. I got a hold of scrap 1/4" steel and i'll be making two spacers. This is to help clear the steering rack on the driver side, which is my biggest fear right now. But we shall see!

Yeah, gravity feed to the upper pan is definitely the best choice. Just make sure you're below the windage tray but above the high oil level.

You're making your own cold side pipe right?